Compustar 4900S

Looking to see if there's a tutorial or manual for programming the RS manually if you don't have the OP500 for setting it up unless I'm missing something with this. IS it just use the wiring diagram that came with the small manual and it's plug and play? I'm considering installing it in a 04 Chevy Tahoe and I have a Fortin bypass as I'd bought the fortin back last year and was going to use a different RS system but wound up getting a different one on a whim. From my understanding of reading in the 4900S manual that came in box I thought I read something about it being locked? O hope this isn't the case. Just need a lil info to get me a little traction and get going. If the Compustar isn't compatible with the Fortin bypass I can always contact my son and get the Autopage C3 RS-730 that he had when I initially was going to install it last year. If I have to get something different and use the 4900S on the daughters 04 Hyundai Santa Fe I could live with it being Amazon was late with the delivery by 3 days so they refunded my money ($96) and told me to keep the unit. Can't beat that which is why I want to get the unit to work. IF I have to get a OP500 I can always use it later as long it's a legit unit and not a knock off cloned unit. IF anyone knows where they sell them cheap please let me know and I may explore it especially if it's something that can be used with newer systems or not?Any help is better than no help.

Here is a link to the CM900 install guide. Your CS4900-s has the CM900 brain. It should be marked as such on the units label. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1428 You should be able to make program changes to Tables 1 thru 4 with the remotes. You will need the OP-500 to make changes to the two Special Option groups. This includes reassigning any of the POC's from their factory setting. It appears that you can get a real OP-500 off eBay for $65.00 if you need it. I've never seen a knock-off OP-500 for sale. The CM900-s unit does not come locked and doesn't have a setting like DEI units that can lock programming options. The Fortin EVO-ALL has programming options that will allow it to go D2D in either Native Fortin Mode, ADS mode or DBI mode so there should be no issue having it work with almost any R/S unit. Last resort is W2W mode that always works.Soldering is fun!

Yes I just checked the tag on the back of the unit and it's the CM-900 so that sounds good. What does "Native Fortin Mode, ADS mode or DBI mode" mean or can you link something where I can learn more about these modes. Hope this isn't a setback where I've got to learn some more or hopefully it's just a simple read. After I'd made the post I got thinking that maybe the bypass controlled things such as locks, lights. IS this where the bypass such as my evo-all shines and takes care of those devices via the "D2D in either Native Fortin Mode, ADS mode or DBI mode" ? I quoted a portion of your post as you'd mentioned it above and my guess it's a protocol? Any reference material to learn about that portion of what you're mentioning of? Standard protocol that allows interoperability / communication via various mfr unit models? I'm definitely learning this stuff and still have my head wrapped around automotive all the time as well. I think I'll order a OP-500 as it'll definitely help speed things il by the looks of it but to begin I'll learn the old school way as that's something I believe in, learning the basics. I do plan on having roof, bumper (forward facing) LED bars come on after startup so when coming out the area is lit up around vehicle. Also with LED lights having low power draw having them wired via alarm would be good for if someone triggers alarm it lights the area of the vehicle up fairly quickly where they may be identified. I also have motion security cameras overlooking our driveway where the cars are but the motion cam don't always kick on as they should. I will see what I can find unless I see a reply from you or others in reference to the various modes. I will also read the information you posted the link to. I've found a very reputable company out of Chicago suburbs that does heated mirrors. They're even for the early model Tahoe vehicle which since I'm doing a bunch of wiring maybe I'll leave some room in the fuse box to add a heater lead since this vehicle didn't have the build code. Never thought I would've found decent heated mirrors. A little pricey if you ask me. I have a under seat downward sub (1200 watts, pioneer amp I've had about 3-4 yrs and never installed yet) and amp that'll be going in under passenger seats. I think I'll be doing the "Big 3 upgrade" along with a spare battery with a primary for starting and a second battery? Battery, Big Cables, Larger Alternator if needed and a one waysupply from alternator to keep main battery available for the the amp. I have a backup camera system I've been skeptical of putting in because at times I feel that type of tech leads to laziness sometimes. Just have to be mindful. I pull trailer a few times a month so while backing up to hook up it'll save some time for sure plus backing out of parking spots it'll help at night as I have dark tinted windows. Included some pics of my RS unit. I hope the bypass with this will save me some wiring because that would just be well, great. I've had a Vava Dash cam / video recorder for awhile and I've been happy with it. I have a 128gb card and can pull photos / videos on scene for law enforcement, insurance if necessary. To get that off the 12 plug in I plan on hitting the overhead rear hvac control and running a fused wire for power control for that if possible, fingers crossed otherwise I have to route a wire. I should look into the prices of door popper's if going this far but that may be going a little to far. I'm thinking I should go one system at a time, check for operation afterwards before I start next but don't want to button it all up till done. On a side note..... My thought is I could break the install of the various stuff down into a few videos to help those who've been in my position to give them some insight for doing their repairs themselves. Not looking to get rich off YouTube but if they want to give me some money I'll gladly take it as we all would. Any help is better than no help.

Easy one first. The open area at the back of the CM900 with the connector pins is for a iDatalink Blade cartridge.   It slides into the unit. It is a bypass module like the EVO-ALL that is designed to work with certain R/S units. You can learn more at the iDatalink.com WEB site. Soldering is fun!

If you are going to use the CS4900-s system and add addition features controlled by AUX outputs and reassign POC's, you will need an OP-500 to make changes to the Special Options groups. The EVO-ALL is not needed for the 2004 Santa Fe. There is no transponder system that needs a bypass module. Everything will need to be hardwired on that vehicle. The EVO-ALL will be needed on the 2004 Tahoe. You will have to flash the module with 70.32 or higher firmware using the FlashLink cable. Within FlashLink Manager, after the firmware flash, you will see that you can set various options on the EVO-ALL. Look at Group F options. This is where you select the D2D protocol. F1 is Native Fortin, F2 is ADS iDatalink, and F3 is DBI. You would select F2 for the Compustat CS4900-s. The long explaination about D2D Protocols is that each bypass module manufacturer developed their own protocol, the way data is multiplex transferred on the the 4 pin harness that interconnects the R/S system and the bypass module. All cables have +12v power and ground wires but not always at the same pin location. Same for the RX and TX data wires. Bottom line is that DEI makes bypass modules that only use DBI protocol, iDatalink makes bypass modules that can utilize DBI and their own ADS protocols and Fortin modules can handle all 3 protocols, DBI, ADS and their own. If you look at the Fortin EVO-ALL install guide for the 2004 Tahoe you will see the necessary wiring. With D2D, you would only need to make the solid line wire connections. All the dashed line wire connections are handed by/within the 4 pin D2D harness.Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Easy one first. The open area at the back of the CM900 with the connector pins is for a iDatalink Blade cartridge.   It slides into the unit. It is a bypass module like the EVO-ALL that is designed to work with certain R/S units. You can learn more at the iDatalink.com WEB site.

Thanks that helps clarify that one.Any help is better than no help.

kreg357 wrote: If you are going to use the CS4900-s system and add addition features controlled by AUX outputs and reassign POC's, you will need an OP-500 to make changes to the Special Options groups. The EVO-ALL is not needed for the 2004 Santa Fe. There is no transponder system that needs a bypass module. Everything will need to be hardwired on that vehicle. The EVO-ALL will be needed on the 2004 Tahoe. You will have to flash the module with 70.32 or higher firmware using the FlashLink cable. Within FlashLink Manager, after the firmware flash, you will see that you can set various options on the EVO-ALL. Look at Group F options. This is where you select the D2D protocol. F1 is Native Fortin, F2 is ADS iDatalink, and F3 is DBI. You would select F2 for the Compustat CS4900-s. The long explaination about D2D Protocols is that each bypass module manufacturer developed their own protocol, the way data is multiplex transferred on the the 4 pin harness that interconnects the R/S system and the bypass module. All cables have +12v power and ground wires but not always at the same pin location. Same for the RX and TX data wires. Bottom line is that DEI makes bypass modules that only use DBI protocol, iDatalink makes bypass modules that can utilize DBI and their own ADS protocols and Fortin modules can handle all 3 protocols, DBI, ADS and their own. If you look at the Fortin EVO-ALL install guide for the 2004 Tahoe you will see the necessary wiring. With D2D, you would only need to make the solid line wire connections. All the dashed line wire connections are handed by/within the 4 pin D2D harness.

Thanks you broke it down pretty good. Sounds like the Fortin Evo All for the Tahoe wasn't to bad a choice after all. For a newbie I've got some learning to do. Wonder if there's a sticky somewhere on the site because once you explained them it came across. I went ahead and bought a OP500 off flea bay since the RS was free because Amazon didn't make their delivery date. I guess speaking up about your stuff being late every now and then has it's perks. After 15yrs of making money off of me I guess they felt I was going to return it and get it about the same price bad enough that they felt it was worth keeping me around. I'll use the OP500 down the road. Scored a 03 Toyota Camry to do tonight in the next few weeks so not to bad. Plain key and $250 to install it in his garage and he'll let me use his garage to install mine and my daughters. Epic I guess! Not a friend but someone who needed a water VALVE replace below his sink. Selling the side stuff. Guy is pretty cool though.Any help is better than no help.

That's cool. The 2003 Camry is a pretty easy one to do. However, there are two Ignitions and two Starter wires that need to be powered during a remote start so you will need an additional / external relay. You definitely don't want to connect one R/S output wire to two vehicle ignition wires. I did a Pictorial on that vehicle that should help with the install : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=143770 Soldering is fun!