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1994 chevy blazer s10 v6 electrical issue


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dohcser 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: April 04, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: March 15, 2007 at 1:21 PM / IP Logged  
I recently acquired a 94 Blazer Tahoe LT 4dr V6.
The power door locks does not work on any of the 4 doors. With that being said it is my thought that it has to be a single point of failure which is usually a fuse or in the driver side door.
I opened the driver door panel yesterday and accessed the door lock switch, which as 3 wires (ORG/BL, BL, and BLUE). I checked with my DMM and there is +12V between the ORG/BL and BL. I then put the DMM over the BL and BLUE. When I click the switch to the left there is a +12V on the Blue wire, when I click it right there is a -12V and in the center there is 0V which is expected.
My delima is with the voltage being at the switch shouldn't my driver door lock work, unless my door solenoid is bad. But then I thought was is the possibility of all 4 solenoids from each door being bad. Also when I click the door lock to the left I hear a relay clicking somewhere in the truck, but when I click to the right I hear nothing.
HELP!!!!!
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: March 15, 2007 at 9:19 PM / IP Logged  
Fidn the wires going to the door lock motor itself and cut the wires so you have the motor side and the switch side. Strip back the wires on the motor side and ground one of the wires and then touch 12 volts to the other... this SHOULD trigger the door lock solenoid in either the lock or unlock position. Flip the ground to the other wire and it should do the opposite now. This will tell you if the solenoid is good or bad. If the solenoid does nothing when you touch 12 volts ot it while grounding the other wire, you have a bad solenoid. If the solenoid triggers properly, then you have a bad switch or controller.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
custom audio ny 
Copper - Posts: 176
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: March 17, 2007 at 10:55 AM / IP Logged  

Although it is possible all the soliniods are bad that usually is not the case.

It could be a problem at the factory relay module. The module is controlled by the 3 wire switch. The ORANGE / blk should meter at 12v constant...when the switch is in one position it should send 12v+ to the blue wire..in the other position to the black. When the switch is at rest the blue and black will read neg or close to it, this is normal.

Find that "clicking" noise..should be underdash somewhere..that is the factory doorlock relay..sounds like the problem lies there since you only hear the clicking in one position. If everything looks good with it and the plugs are in solid with no corrosion etc. you may need to replace it..or make your own setup by using 2 relays for "5 wire" doorlocks (easy) and they will work again.

Good luck

Custom Audio
Lynbrook NY
ASE/MECP master certified
custom audio ny 
Copper - Posts: 176
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: March 17, 2007 at 1:26 PM / IP Logged  

oops..well not that it really matters in the scheme of things, the doorlock "motors" are actually actuators...not solinoids..technically a solinoid only does work in one direction...such as a trunk release or a door release when shaved doors handles are done etc., whereas an actuator does work in 2 (push/pull) as with doorlocks.

Just though I'd share that tidbit.

Custom Audio
Lynbrook NY
ASE/MECP master certified

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