12 volt to 6 volt

Hello, I have a trail/security/surveillance camera which operates on 4 D cell batteries, that produce 6 volts to run the camera.  The longevity of the camera is not good as the batteries do not last long enough.  I'm looking at using an external battery that will meet my needs to run this camera for a long period of time.  I'm a rookie, so I'm hoping someone can give me some expert advice.  Here's what I'm thinking as a couple of options....

1 option is to buy a 6 volt battery with a HIGH amp/hour rating.  However, these batteries are very costly when you get up around 100+ amp/hr.  This is not a good option for me.

Another option is to use a 12v battery I have already and purchase a 12 volt to 6 volt reducer.  That way I can use this battery to power the camera for an extensive period of time.

Does this sound right?  Am I on the right track here and is there anything I have to be careful about so I don't fry my camera.

Thanks! 

you are definately on the right track. just be sure to purchase a voltage regulator rated to handle the current draw of the camera. The only thing to be careful of is observing the proper polarity when connecting the leads to the camera.

sorry. current is measured in amps. for example if the camera "draws 1 amp the voltage reg. must be rated for at least 1 amp. Polarity refers to the power connections. positive(+) must be connected to positive(+) and negative(-) must be connected to negative(+). In DC voltage, (batteries are DC voltage) positive leads in a simple circuit are red and negative leads are black. these leads coming from your voltage regulators output must be connected properly to your camera otherwise you can damage the circuits if there is no built in protection(you will probably not find this protection info on your camera so assume the protection isn't there.) You will have to connect the leads somehow to the camera where the batteries were. I would suggest soldering. On a battery, the end with the bump is positive(+)

Thank you!  I'm completely on board.  After I asked the "polarity" question I laughed at myself.  That was a no brainer but thanks for being so detailed.  As for the draw, that is excellent info for me.  I will look into this with the manufactuer.

Also....here is my plan (instead of soddering).  In order to not void my warranty, I'm going to use wood dowels (same size as the batteries).  I will epoxy metal ends and attach wire for both + & - at appropriate spots.  That way, I won't need to sodder & void my warranty. 

Again, thanks for the help!!!!!!  I really appreciate it. 

Jeffwhiteman (or anyone who can help also)....

Here's what I found out.  The camera operates under the following draws:

• When the camera is idle it draws 1-5 miliamps
• When the camera takes a photo during daylight, it draws 250 miliamps
• When the camera takes a photo with a flash at night, it draws 800 miliamps

So, based on those specs, what do you recommend I purchase for a 12 volt to 6 volt reducer?  At very minimum, I need it to be able to draw 800 miliamps.  I think I'm understanding based on previous posts that the reducer is rated to allow a current of a certain amount of amps.  So if I buy a 12 volt to 6 volt reducer, I need that reducer to be able to allow a minimum of 800 miliamps.  Would it be a problem if it was rated higher? 

Any exact recommendations of what to buy?  What specs on the 12 volt to 6 volt reducer? 

Again thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

800 miliamps is .8 amps, as long as it can handle 1 amp you will be fine. there is no problem at all using a higher rated device.

Thanks again!  I just purchased a 6v regulator, rated for 1.5 amps of current.  The cost of this regulator was .75 cents.  I'm happy with this alternative, using a 12v battery I have vs. the high dollar cost of a 6v high amp/hour rating battery which are priced high.  Can't wait to get this wired and in use.

great!

Just curious, what were the caps for?

They were included in the "recommended circuit."  My take is that they allow for consistent flow of voltage (which flattens out the waves).  That's my understanding anyway.  Since they only used two capaciters, it was a no brainer to put them in.