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1998 Plymouth Voyager Remote Start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: General Mobile Electronics Questions and Answers
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=10477
Printed Date: May 11, 2024 at 2:37 AM


Topic: 1998 Plymouth Voyager Remote Start

Posted By: midwayelec
Subject: 1998 Plymouth Voyager Remote Start
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 4:04 PM

OK, I just finished a remote start install with door locks on a 1998 Plymouth Voyager. To make a long story short, I used the resistors with relays for the door locks, used a relay for 2nd ignition. Finished the install, tested it like a dozen times, everything worked fine. Closed everything up, remoted locked, remote unlocked, remote started, got in, turned key on, drove out of shop and into parking lot. Shut it off went inside, gave customer keys. He went outside, and nothing I installed worked..... Anybody have any ideas on why this would happen? The customer is coming back tomorrow morning to let me look at it. Any suggestions would be wonderful. Thanks.

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Sean Cawby
Midway Electronics
Rensselaer, IN
219-866-3716



Replies:

Posted By: midwayelec
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 4:08 PM
I'm begging for some help here.... by the way... all connections were soldered and taped. Anything else you'd like to know, let me know.... Oh, one more thing... parking lights weren't even flashing when it wasn't working, but they were flashing when it WAS working.

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Sean Cawby
Midway Electronics
Rensselaer, IN
219-866-3716




Posted By: bdl666
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 4:19 PM
What brand remote starter?
Model?




Posted By: Two_Cold
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 4:23 PM
I've had one do a similar thing to a car I did. A relay in the brain was bad and melted part of the circuit board. It worked great for 4 days then quit. It was a remote start, no alarm.

I would start with the fuses. Then unplug the brain, open it up and look for damage.




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 4:24 PM
Definitely check the fuses or the ground. Another thing to check for is that the antenna is properly attached to the CPU.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: midwayelec
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 7:07 PM
It's an Ultra Start.... Canadian company.... when I get to work tomorrow I'll check the fuses obviously. It seems like a power issue definitely because not even the led on the antenna lights up at all....

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Sean Cawby
Midway Electronics
Rensselaer, IN
219-866-3716




Posted By: midwayelec
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 7:08 PM
Do i need to diode isolate the resistors in this setup? Actually do I need to diode isolate anything?

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Sean Cawby
Midway Electronics
Rensselaer, IN
219-866-3716




Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 7:24 PM

Being that it all worked when it left your shop and the only thing you have to go on is from the customer, there's still a chance that the problem is between the steering wheel and the head rest. posted_image 

However, if this is not the case, check the obvious and let us know what you find when you get the vehicle.



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Posted By: midwayelec
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 9:56 AM
Found the problem... there was an electrical problem in the vehicle. The parking lights were only showing 8 volts instead of the 12 that it needed, therefore blowing the fuse when the parking lights came on. Took awhile to figure it out, but I did. After a little research I realized that the 99 and up Voyagers are made like this, therefore needing a resistor on the relay (to inverse polarity) in order to compensate the loss of voltage.

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Sean Cawby
Midway Electronics
Rensselaer, IN
219-866-3716




Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 10:06 AM
In the future, you can catch the (-) parking light lead in the harness coming from the switch behind the driver's side dash just above the brake release. If I remember correctly, it's an 18 to 20 gauge Light GREEN / WHITE wire taped up with about 5 or six other small leads from the switch.

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Posted By: midwayelec
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 10:35 AM
That's exactly where I got it, but when tested it showed only 8 volts.

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Sean Cawby
Midway Electronics
Rensselaer, IN
219-866-3716




Posted By: bdl666
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 4:42 PM
How long have you been installing?
And how many 98-up Chrysler vehicles have you worked on?




Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 4:45 PM
It should show continuity to ground when the lights are on.

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Posted By: midwayelec
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 4:55 PM
I should've clarified... It showed only 8 volts when no lights were on. I am intelligent enough to know that a negative polarity anything will show ground when active. And to answer the other question, I work in a very small farm town where I barely get to work on many 98 and up anything. So no, I haven't worked on many 98-up Chrysler vehicles.

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Sean Cawby
Midway Electronics
Rensselaer, IN
219-866-3716




Posted By: 2vmodular
Date Posted: March 11, 2003 at 9:55 PM
The lightGREEN / WHITE wire is a low current sense wire to the parking lamp relay coil. The BROWN / yellow and darkGREEN/ YELLOW wires are the high current feeds that run directly to the parking lamp bulbs.




Posted By: midwayelec
Date Posted: March 12, 2003 at 7:35 AM
Are those wires still negative polarity?

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Sean Cawby
Midway Electronics
Rensselaer, IN
219-866-3716




Posted By: midwayelec
Date Posted: March 12, 2003 at 7:37 AM
and where are they located at?

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Sean Cawby
Midway Electronics
Rensselaer, IN
219-866-3716




Posted By: 2vmodular
Date Posted: March 12, 2003 at 11:12 PM
The high current feeds to the parking light bulbs are positive polarity. The relay is located on the BCM under the drivers dash.

You'd be best off tapping the low current sense wire instead, because the constant live in the ignition switch harness is only fused at 30amps.





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