lets play a little game if we can
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: General Mobile Electronics Questions and Answers
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113392
Printed Date: July 17, 2025 at 4:09 PM
Topic: lets play a little game if we can
Posted By: bigjohnny
Subject: lets play a little game if we can
Date Posted: April 24, 2009 at 8:29 PM
I'm gonna cut straight to the chase, basically I'm interested in testing my own knowledge of car audio.
Lets pretend I own a shop, and you are the customer. You come into my shop looking for something, and have questions.
Ask your hypothetical questions here, and I will try and answer them to the best of my knowledge.... play whichever customer type you wish..... if you decide to play a role, please post which role it is :)
Please allow me to be the only one to answer the questions posed here(aside from corrections) and keep the questions away from serious modifications. "the shop" would be mostly retail, handling basic installs, and custom boxes.
If I can't answer something I will simply say pass, and we will chalk that up to me not knowing.... in this case it would be nice if the question was answered by someone who knows.
Remember this is hypothetical, the questions asked here and any answers given are not to be taken seriously, and no advice given here should not be taken seriously unless otherwise backed up and verified by someone who has "been there done that"
fire away.
Replies:
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: April 24, 2009 at 8:47 PM
Say, hypothetically, I live in a cold climate and I want to install a small heater in the trunk of my car to preheat my audio gear before using it. What would be the best way to do this?
-------------
Kevin Pierson
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: April 24, 2009 at 9:17 PM
heh, didn't see that coming, but should have.
should I take that as an invitation to opt out, or just some hilarious ironic humor
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: April 24, 2009 at 9:28 PM
The obvious answer to KPierson's question is to install two systems. One, used as the "pre-heater" system, should be made up from crap components like Power Akoustik and Audiobahn and cranked into full clipping to maximize heat generation. This is the real reason flea-market-level systems exist, actually: to function as pre-heaters for "real" gear. Why do yo think Sony calls their crap "Xplode?" This pre-heat system would come on first, and then once the trunk's ambient has attained the optimal operating temperature for the "real" system a thermostatic switch triggers a series of relays shutting down the crap system and activating the "real" one. Simple, really. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: April 24, 2009 at 9:35 PM
Kevin must have a Pre-Rockford amplifier if it needs pre-heated. Remember the old Fosgate PR-250? They needed pre-heating.
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: April 24, 2009 at 11:28 PM
no he is refering to a question i posted a while back, and something I'm currently working on.
I wanted to warm my trunk before playing my system in any really cold weather.
DYhon.... clearly the best solution ;)
it's those kinds of questions i wanted to avoid as quite obviously I know very little about electronics themselves.
I'm not trying to pretend I know stuff that I don't, I'm simply just curious myself as to how much I may(not) know. so I hope it isn't taken the wrong way or anything.
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: April 25, 2009 at 6:08 AM
I was just trying to be funny! :) Here's a real question. I have an 800wrms 1 ohm stable amp and I just blew my subs (I had 2 12" in a sealed box). I'm thinking about replacing the subs with either 2 or 3 new 12" subs. Which would you recomend and why? I'm looking for the most bass possible on a mid range budget. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: April 25, 2009 at 7:31 AM
Well, lets address the blown speakers issue, my first guess would be that your gains aren't set properly and your probably feeding a clipped signal to your amps or speakers. Bring your car by the shop and we'll check and set your gains properly with an oscope free of charge.
Personally I would skip the 3rd sub and just stick with two, the third sub isn't going to make a noticeable difference to your ear. In order to (double??) the output you need to (double??) the (surface/cone area?)
the human ear can only pickup sound in 3db increments.
(the wording for that is terrible, the exact details of that answer aren't quite in my memory)
Before I go suggesting a sub woofer, I need to know, are you looking to replace the box or do you want to just drop new subs into your existing boxes? If you want to just drop in new subs I would need to know how many cu ft the box(es) are so I could suggest a sub woofer good for that size.
If your willing to go with a new box this would open up your sub woofer options and we can design/build the box custom for the speakers on site.
If it's just drop in replacement you will have fewer choices, and your system won't really be optimized for the best bass.
however off the top of my head I would look at the DC level 2, 2 of those wired in series will give you 2ohm per speaker, and wiring those in series together bridged on the amp will give you 600W @ 1ohm.
your looking at about $575 for the speakers and custom box, depending on how you want to do the box.
I'm sure we can find cheaper options, it just really depends on what you want to do.
(question answered, further details/elaboration upon your responses)
how was that answer?
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: April 26, 2009 at 11:32 AM
oohhh,i have one, customers ask me this like every other day, i'm quoting how the questionns frequently go "i want a sytem for may car, not to loud, but if i had to crank it up i would be able to do so, what would you reccomend, say you had to supply everything and install", "wht price rang average are we talkin about," "i want good equipment, nothing that will cause me trouble" hypothetical vehicle- nissan almera playing customer who knows nothing about audio or electronics, but has the funds to spend. ------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: April 26, 2009 at 11:39 AM
" I want add some bass for my 2009 Chevy 1500 truck. It has a good system in it already , I think it says Bose ... that's good right ? I want to add a bit more bass to it but want to keep the factory deck. What can you do for me and what price am I looking at ? " ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 6:43 PM
t&t tech wrote:
oohhh,i have one, customers ask me this like every other day, i'm quoting how the questionns frequently go
"i want a sytem for may car, not to loud, but if i had to crank it up i would be able to do so, what would you reccomend, say you had to supply everything and install", "wht price rang average are we talkin about,"
"i want good equipment, nothing that will cause me trouble"
hypothetical vehicle- nissan almera
playing customer who knows nothing about audio or electronics, but has the funds to spend.
First off, I have to say, I'm Canadian, so pricing here is different and will be seem costly to those in the US, not to mention some of the stuff I wouldn't have accurate pricing on since I can only go by whats available at the retail level. that being said.....
For something like that you would probably want a lower wattage system, say 300-500W, and maybe a couple of 10's in a well designed box. you could get deeper lows if you went with 12's instead.
Setting up the system properly will give you a good solid bass at low volumes (keeping you out of doodie) but will also allow you to show up the "pre-fab punks".
With that car I'd lean more towards the 10's, what price range were you looking at?
(put this on pause, I gotta go out and get my gf from work, I was looking into some brands and pricing for you, and will get back to this..... hold that thought.)
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 8:32 PM
It's been over a day and I still haven't received a qoute from you on the system I asked about....... should I go elsewhere ??
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: April 28, 2009 at 4:23 PM
velocity i was thinkin the same thing, lol, big johnny, don't worry about the costing, just build my system on paper, and i'll tell you if i can afford this, after all it is hypothetical, right  ------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: April 28, 2009 at 4:38 PM
I'm gonna get back to that other question, I'm not up to par with brands, so I'll need to do my research, again keeping in mind if I was actually the owner of a shop I would have more easily accessible reference material, and actual products which the store carried. Naturally I would sell something we carry :)
Velocity Motors wrote:
" I want add some bass for my 2009 Chevy 1500 truck. It has a good system in it already , I think it says Bose ... that's good right ? I want to add a bit more bass to it but want to keep the factory deck. What can you do for me and what price am I looking at ? "
Weather or not Bose is a good system is a matter of personal opinion, and personally I'm not very keen on Bose, I believe they use a bunch of "trickery" (wave guide tunnels)to achieve their results, and as a matter of personal opinion I dont believe them to be all that great.
We could keep your factory head unit though, and add an amp and some speakers. Just throwing a rough estimate out there you would probably be looking at just under $1000 for all of the parts and pieces needed to have a quality, excellent sounding system fully installed.
(again, I will reply with some brands later. Ive been exceptionally busy lately)
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: April 28, 2009 at 4:46 PM
t&t tech wrote:
velocity i was thinkin the same thing, lol, big johnny, don't worry about the costing, just build my system on paper, and i'll tell you if i can afford this, after all it is hypothetical, right
yeah sorry, don't go somewhere else :) Like i said, Ive been really busy. I'm actually looking into opening a shop, I would have run by someone else though while I remain working.
Can I manage a business? sure, that's not an issue here, my knowledge is. I'm finding that on the technical side of things, there aren't really any issues, and nothing I can't learn damn fast. but on the actual brands, and knowledge of them I'm not so hot.
This is why I would need a business manager who knows that kind of stuff.
What do you guys think of the idea? I know it's easy to make a premature assumption based only on what someone knows of another person on the internet, but there's more to it than that.
and it all leads back to the research I'm doing as time allows.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: April 28, 2009 at 4:49 PM
bigjohnny, sorry, but this was a trick question. You can't integrate into the OEM Bose system on the new Silverado trucks. Actaully, you can but the sound is crappy if you try to use a LOC because the input signal from the Bose system from the deck is a constant 1/4 watt input and the output is crossed over so little or no bass. ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: April 28, 2009 at 6:35 PM
Velocity Motors wrote:
bigjohnny, sorry, but this was a trick question. You can't integrate into the OEM Bose system on the new Silverado trucks. Actaully, you can but the sound is crappy if you try to use a LOC because the input signal from the Bose system from the deck is a constant 1/4 watt input and the output is crossed over so little or no bass.
well hey, thanks for that. This is exactly why I started this thread :D
I actually just thought removing the bose system was hard, I remember reading something about them on BMWs and having to do a ton of stuff to remove it.
clearly I have much brushing up to do, but I still wanna try and answer the questions here :)
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: April 28, 2009 at 9:59 PM
 ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: April 28, 2009 at 10:43 PM
Just remember this when the subject is BLOSE: rip it all out and you will feel better in the morning.
-------------
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: April 29, 2009 at 9:33 AM
Q: i want something that sounds pretty good in my GMC Jimmy and is loud when i want it to be. i already have an aftermarket deck. my friends all tell me i should get a bandpass box because ill get more bang for my buck and i will be loud...... plus they say a bandpass box has "better" bass, what do you think? i know nothing about car audio, what do you suggest for me? i pretty much just need an enclosure of some sort, i dont know what kind, and an amp to match......i think.....i dont know, you tell me.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 30, 2009 at 6:44 AM
Q: Let's say I've got a 2004 Pontiac GTO and a 2001 Ford Mustang base model convertible.
For the GTO I just want to add a remote start, since it already has an alarm from the factory. What system and accessories would be required(specific parts)?
For the Mustang I want an alarm with remote starter, and if you have any other suggestions that'd be cool. Also note that it only has one key. What do you suggest?
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: April 30, 2009 at 6:54 AM
ckeeler wrote:
Q: i want something that sounds pretty good in my GMC Jimmy and is loud when i want it to be. i already have an aftermarket deck. my friends all tell me i should get a bandpass box because ill get more bang for my buck and i will be loud...... plus they say a bandpass box has "better" bass, what do you think? i know nothing about car audio, what do you suggest for me? i pretty much just need an enclosure of some sort, i dont know what kind, and an amp to match......i think.....i dont know, you tell me.
well thats what "friends" are for arent they ;) Depending on what kind of bass you are looking for a bandpass box may or may not be what you want.
A bandpass box will sound great if you want SPL (that sound pressure level, or how hard do you want it to hit) for a certain band of frequencies.
You will get hard bass in whatever range the box is tuned for, but anything outside of that range will sound faded and flat, just generally bad.
a ported box will give you some hard hitting bass, more on the SPL side, and you will get better sounding bass across a wider band, but if your box isnt tuned properly (IE too low) you run the risk of unloading your subwoofer and bottoming it out. it's basically pushing air with no back pressure restricting it's movement.
Personally I would go with a sealed box, stuffed with dampening material (polyfill). You will have a nice tight warm bass. It'll hit hard, and sound good. keeping the dampening material out of the box will make the bass louder, but it might seem a little more resonant, which may or may not be desirable depending on the kind of bass you want.
we can get your system setup properly, and your bass is gonna sound great turned down, but turn it up and it will start beating your heart for you ;)
(my knowledge of the ported boxes is a little rusty, I think I recalled most of the information properly, but it's been a while since I built a box.... I'm working on a couple now but they are sealed.... how'd I do?)
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: April 30, 2009 at 8:52 AM
bigjohnny wrote:
ckeeler wrote:
Q: i want something that sounds pretty good in my GMC Jimmy and is loud when i want it to be. i already have an aftermarket deck. my friends all tell me i should get a bandpass box because ill get more bang for my buck and i will be loud...... plus they say a bandpass box has "better" bass, what do you think? i know nothing about car audio, what do you suggest for me? i pretty much just need an enclosure of some sort, i dont know what kind, and an amp to match......i think.....i dont know, you tell me.
well thats what "friends" are for arent they ;) Depending on what kind of bass you are looking for a bandpass box may or may not be what you want.
A bandpass box will sound great if you want SPL (that sound pressure level, or how hard do you want it to hit) for a certain band of frequencies.
You will get hard bass in whatever range the box is tuned for, but anything outside of that range will sound faded and flat, just generally bad.
a ported box will give you some hard hitting bass, more on the SPL side, and you will get better sounding bass across a wider band, but if your box isnt tuned properly (IE too low) you run the risk of unloading your subwoofer and bottoming it out. it's basically pushing air with no back pressure restricting it's movement.
Personally I would go with a sealed box, stuffed with dampening material (polyfill). You will have a nice tight warm bass. It'll hit hard, and sound good. keeping the dampening material out of the box will make the bass louder, but it might seem a little more resonant, which may or may not be desirable depending on the kind of bass you want.
we can get your system setup properly, and your bass is gonna sound great turned down, but turn it up and it will start beating your heart for you ;)
(my knowledge of the ported boxes is a little rusty, I think I recalled most of the information properly, but it's been a while since I built a box.... I'm working on a couple now but they are sealed.... how'd I do?)
i want something that sounds pretty good so i will go with your suggestion rather than my friends,thank you. BTW, you did pretty good bigjohnny. my only suggestion is to read up a little more on ported boxes and when you want to use one. really any driver can be put in a ported enclosure but the real decideing factor concerning going sealed or ported really should be the characteristics of the driver and how it was designed to behave and sound.
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: May 01, 2009 at 7:13 AM
chriswallace187 wrote:
Q: Let's say I've got a 2004 Pontiac GTO and a 2001 Ford Mustang base model convertible.
For the GTO I just want to add a remote start, since it already has an alarm from the factory. What system and accessories would be required(specific parts)?
For the Mustang I want an alarm with remote starter, and if you have any other suggestions that'd be cool. Also note that it only has one key. What do you suggest?
Hey sorry man, I didnt see this here until just now as I went to navigate away from the page. I'm just heading out the door for work, So when I get home I will actually read this and answer it..... just trying to be unbiased, I don't want to have time to actually think on it all day ;)
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: May 03, 2009 at 8:17 AM
chriswallace187 wrote:
Q: Let's say I've got a 2004 Pontiac GTO and a 2001 Ford Mustang base model convertible.
For the GTO I just want to add a remote start, since it already has an alarm from the factory. What system and accessories would be required(specific parts)?
For the Mustang I want an alarm with remote starter, and if you have any other suggestions that'd be cool. Also note that it only has one key. What do you suggest?
well those GTOs are a bitch to put a remote start on. You need to bypass the factory system/BCM which requires another key or some extra work on your part IE unlock/disarm the factory system before the car will remote start.
It would be better just to leave that as is.
For your mustang we could install a genuine ford remote start system, or go with an aftermarket system which may require an immobilizer bypass, Maybe not..
Suggestions..? I would have to see the car, I'm a visual person, once I'd seen it, ideas would start flooding out of my head.
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: May 03, 2009 at 10:20 AM
bj]a p wrote:
rted box will give you some hard hitting bass, more on the SPL side, and you will get better sounding bass across a wider band, but if your box isnt tuned properly (IE too low) you run the risk of unloading your subwoofer and bottoming it out.
You mean to say "ie too high"... Tune as low a possible for concerns of wild woofer fluctuation below Fb and for sound quality. Tune higher for SPL, and when tuned higher the use of a subsonic filter is often necessary. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 04, 2009 at 1:23 AM
bigjohnny wrote:
chriswallace187 wrote:
Q: Let's say I've got a 2004 Pontiac GTO and a 2001 Ford Mustang base model convertible.
For the GTO I just want to add a remote start, since it already has an alarm from the factory. What system and accessories would be required(specific parts)?
For the Mustang I want an alarm with remote starter, and if you have any other suggestions that'd be cool. Also note that it only has one key. What do you suggest?
well those GTOs are a bitch to put a remote start on. You need to bypass the factory system/BCM which requires another key or some extra work on your part IE unlock/disarm the factory system before the car will remote start.
It would be better just to leave that as is.
For your mustang we could install a genuine ford remote start system, or go with an aftermarket system which may require an immobilizer bypass, Maybe not..
Suggestions..? I would have to see the car, I'm a visual person, once I'd seen it, ideas would start flooding out of my head.
Hmm...you'd turn down the money for the GTO RS that quickly? Without saying you'd research it, and finding that it could be bypassed using a relay and a sacrificed key?
The car is obscure, the main reason I asked about it. Bypass manufacturers don't tend to have tech info on the immobilizer, but some Interweb forums have addressed this specific car.
As far as the Mustang - the key words were "convertible" and "only one key". A convertible with an alarm install should be a piece of cake to sell a proximity sensor in addition to the basic alarm.
With only one key (and it certainly has an immobilizer - Ford's used them since '96 and they're on almost every 2000-up Ford car), you have to know your immobilizer bypasses very well.
Specifically in this example, it's important that the Mustang used PATS Type 1 from '04-down (and Securilock from '05-present). Since you are familiar with bypassing this immobilizer, you could then tell your customer that the PKFM, or KEYOVERRIDEALL can be programmed to the vehicle without any additional work on his or her part.
Your competitor down the street is going to just look up a general immobilizer guide which says "2 keys required" and insist that the customer needs to spend $75 at a dealer or a locksmith's for a 2nd key. Now if this customer's gotten quotes from both you and your competitor, who do you think he's going to buy from?
A customer with only one key isn't the least bit of an uncommon scenario, especially if the car was purchased used(the person who traded it in and the dealer who resold it have no incentive to care that it has any more than the single key). ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: May 04, 2009 at 7:12 AM
chriswallace187 wrote:
bigjohnny wrote:
chriswallace187 wrote:
Q: Let's say I've got a 2004 Pontiac GTO and a 2001 Ford Mustang base model convertible.
For the GTO I just want to add a remote start, since it already has an alarm from the factory. What system and accessories would be required(specific parts)?
For the Mustang I want an alarm with remote starter, and if you have any other suggestions that'd be cool. Also note that it only has one key. What do you suggest?
well those GTOs are a bitch to put a remote start on. You need to bypass the factory system/BCM which requires another key or some extra work on your part IE unlock/disarm the factory system before the car will remote start.
It would be better just to leave that as is.
For your mustang we could install a genuine ford remote start system, or go with an aftermarket system which may require an immobilizer bypass, Maybe not..
Suggestions..? I would have to see the car, I'm a visual person, once I'd seen it, ideas would start flooding out of my head.
Hmm...you'd turn down the money for the GTO RS that quickly? Without saying you'd research it, and finding that it could be bypassed using a relay and a sacrificed key?
The car is obscure, the main reason I asked about it. Bypass manufacturers don't tend to have tech info on the immobilizer, but some Interweb forums have addressed this specific car.
As far as the Mustang - the key words were "convertible" and "only one key". A convertible with an alarm install should be a piece of cake to sell a proximity sensor in addition to the basic alarm.
With only one key (and it certainly has an immobilizer - Ford's used them since '96 and they're on almost every 2000-up Ford car), you have to know your immobilizer bypasses very well.
Specifically in this example, it's important that the Mustang used PATS Type 1 from '04-down (and Securilock from '05-present). Since you are familiar with bypassing this immobilizer, you could then tell your customer that the PKFM, or KEYOVERRIDEALL can be programmed to the vehicle without any additional work on his or her part.
Your competitor down the street is going to just look up a general immobilizer guide which says "2 keys required" and insist that the customer needs to spend $75 at a dealer or a locksmith's for a 2nd key. Now if this customer's gotten quotes from both you and your competitor, who do you think he's going to buy from?
A customer with only one key isn't the least bit of an uncommon scenario, especially if the car was purchased used(the person who traded it in and the dealer who resold it have no incentive to care that it has any more than the single key).
Ouch, big fail :)
I knew that was a trick'ish question. I'm not entirely familiar with all that stuff or what can be done. If you were an actual customer in a shop yes I would be researching it more. But I would also have more resources available to research I think, between manuals, stuff like alldatadiy, and actual people I could call to talk to about it, would make it easier to get a solid answer.
The newer cars use a ton of doodie that I'm need to brush up on for sure.
I gotta be honest though, I have thus far NEVER seen a GTO in my city.... not a new one anyway.
chriswallace187 wrote:
Specifically in this example, it's important that the Mustang used PATS Type 1 from '04-down (and Securilock from '05-present). Since you are familiar with bypassing this immobilizer, you could then tell your customer that the PKFM, or KEYOVERRIDEALL can be programmed to the vehicle without any additional work on his or her part.
I dont quite follow this, since I'm not familiar with these cars, I did like 5 mins of research to come up with that half assed answer, obviously I should have just passed on the question lol.
That was a good one though..... it's like those math questions in high school they throw a bunch of facts at you, some are important, other are useless and you need to give answer figuring out if the question was a trick or not heh.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 06, 2009 at 12:15 PM
The '04-'06 GTO is obscure, since it has a unique immobilizer and only about 45,000 were imported to the U.S. over the 3 year period. Precisely why I threw it in, just as a challenge.
LS1GTO.com and the forums at Directechs.com(if you can get to them, they're really anal about password protection there) have detailed posts on the GTO's immobilizer.
On the matter of the Mustang's immobilizer, the main point I was trying to make was that it's beneficial to know how the manufacturer says that a key can be programmed for a particular vehicle, as well as to know what type of bypasses are available when doing remote start. Sometimes knowing that gives you an advantage in the one-key situation I've just mentioned, which isn't uncommon at all.
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: May 06, 2009 at 8:28 PM
chriswallace187 wrote:
On the matter of the Mustang's immobilizer, the main point I was trying to make was that it's beneficial to know how the manufacturer says that a key can be programmed for a particular vehicle, as well as to know what type of bypasses are available when doing remote start. Sometimes knowing that gives you an advantage in the one-key situation I've just mentioned, which isn't uncommon at all.
first, where can I find out about that kind of stuff? I need to know more about newer cars, but without actually owning or working on them (yet) they do all kinds of weird stuff now, gotta keep up with the times.
secondly, i'm still kind of lost on the key thing. Why exactly does only having one key matter? why would someone actually NEED two keys for a remote start/alarm to work properly?
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 12:09 AM
Often the owner's manual for the vehicle will have a replacement key programming procedure. You could also just call the dealer (it helps to find a friendly one, of course).
If you haven't read it yet I'd suggest you look at the sticky in the Car Security forum on Key Immobilizers and Remote Starting.
If the car has a transponder-based immobilizer(like our example 2001 Mustang does, and like Transport Canada has mandated on all cars sold in Canada since September 1, 2007), the number of keys is very significant in determining how you'll be able to bypass the immobilizer for remote starting.
Obviously, to use a universal bypass* module you'll have to have a spare key available for the vehicle. On some cars and trucks if you want to use a vehicle specific RF* or data* bypass module you'll also need to have 2 separate keys during the installation, as the procedure to program the bypass to the vehicle requires this.
*These are the labels used in the linked sticky thread. ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: June 06, 2009 at 4:16 PM
johnny hasn't opened shop since the sixth of may, i guess best buy it is, 
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: June 07, 2009 at 12:11 PM
That\s to bad, since I was wanting to buy from a B&M shop instead of a box store  ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
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