ford techs

tommy... wrote:

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(and no i am not a tech)

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But he did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.

i am an idiot wrote:

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No you didn't keep me up, but since I too stayed at the Holiday Inn Express last night, I was able to find a recall on that vehicle. It does refer to the Engine Control Module and it does talk about engine stalling.

The first one on this page

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The blue line that reads "The first one on this page"  click it, it is a link to the page at motortrend.com

It sounds like you have a fuel problem.   :)

I would check each injector to make sure they are pulsing when the vehicle is running - if an ECU injector output shorted it would cause the injector to stay open constantly, which would cause misfiring, clogged cats, and terrible fuel milage.   This could be checked with either a 'scope, a frequency meter (should be around 11hz at idle and go up with RPM), an LED,  or, if nothing else is available, a volt meter. 

Another thing I would check is fuel pressure - too much pressure can cause simlar issues to yours.

That recall covers stalling under deceleration - I doubt that has anything to do with dumping too much fuel at all times but it would be a good starting point.  Typically, fuel injected vehicles do not inject at all while the motor is heavily decelerating and most likely the ECU wasn't restarting to inject at a high enough RPM to keep the motor from completely stalling.

Well, it depends on the exact problem.

If the output transistor is fried you would need to replace the PCM.  However, it is possible that the fuel injector trigger wire is shorted to ground somwhere - if that is the case there is a chance that if you fix the wiring issue it will fix the problem.

You have determined that you have a fuel delivery problem, now you just need to figure out what cylinder(s) the problem is on and take the steps necesarry to rectify the situation.

the snap on solus shows me to be cylinder four and cylinder six the only problem with checking the injectors is that they are under the intake manifold so you cannot check it while the vehicle is running. you have to take the manifold off to get to the injectors.

dvaldez0989 wrote:

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i would have to take off my intake manifold to get to it that is why i am asking

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So even w/ the colors...How are you going to check them if you cant see them...?? All 6 of the injectors are under the manifold...??

There is obviously more than one harness in that area.  If he had the wire colors, he would be able to identify the correct harness and take his readings there. 

Did you even get the Ground Control reference?   Only for Tommy.

This is the question(first paragraph)...And here is the link to the site...  https://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/21/2118114.page  Quite a few responses...2nd part was one of the answers...Good Luck...

Strange but true...i will keep this as brief as possible and answer questions if i leave anythign important out.
Car is a 2001 Escape with the v-6 auto with 75000 miles.
Up until this past summer it has been pretty reliable...here is the story:
Driving home after the car was parked for a week at an airport and had major acceleration problems. Took it to the deal and he said probably just a cracked coil wire but it seemed fine to hime and he sent us on our way.

Fast forward to recent weeks...when my daughter drove the car from her house to mine and this was the first EGR valve explosion about a mile from our house. Had it towed to the dealer and he replaced the EGR valve and the primary cat and took my 1200 dollars and ssent me home with my "fixed" car. Drove home from the dealer and all was well until the next day when the car was bucking all over again. Called the dealer and he said maybe a coil needed to be replaced but he was certain all was fine. The following week it drove fine for the first 2 days...until the EGR valve exploded.

Called the dealer and he said yeah must be a defective part and he gave me a new one...which exploded after 2 miles.

I am going to drive the car up to him tomorrow and tell him to fix it and i do not expect to be charged for anything until it is FIXED. If i didn't have 1200 dollars on the table i would never take it back to this dealer

This drawing shows the Fuel Pressure & Temperature Sensor (FP & T) on top of the engine: https://www...52801e8fdd Pull the hose off and see if there is any fuel in the vacuum hose. There should not be any fuel in the vacuum hose. If there is, the fuel pressure signal sent to the engine computer will be in error, and the fuel will go into the vacuum lines to whichever vacuum line, or intake manifold, has the lowest vacuum. The lowest vacuum, in route to the intake manifold, may be the EGR Valve. I don't have the complete vacuum distribution diagram. Your repairer should have that diagram.
The FP & T Sensor has a vacuum line which, in the usual applications, controls the fuel pressure; but, in your system the vacuum doesn't control the fuel pressure. The fuel pressure on your car is 70 psi, which is only 5 psi high. The FP & T Sensor vacuum diaphragm may be ruptured. This ruptured diaphragm would allow raw fuel to go into the vacuum hose--and on from there.
You haven't said anything about the check engine light being on. Is it, and what is the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code)? I expect something like P1211, or P1236.
We await your response.

3.0L Engine

do you think it is also possible that it could be bad o2 sensors???

First, there are three cats on that vehicle.. you've straight piped the downstream cat. If it was bad, I'd suspect the upstreams are also. You can pull the upstream O2 sensor on each upstream cat and measure exhaust back pressure. You might be able to measure back pressure from the DPFE sensor.. at least for the bank the sensor is connected to.

Tell us what the scan tool is saying for injector pulse width and O2 sensor readings.. if you've replaced the injectors and all 6 coils then you know that it's not difficult to remove the upper half of the intake.. I would pull it off again and make sure you didn't reverse the coil harness connections. The numbers should be on the harness for each cylinder.

How many misfire numbers are you seeing for 4&6? Any trouble codes? What's the fuel pressure?

J