lights dim, dealer bail out

Does anyone else think that if the headlights dim on a vehicle when you accellerate that it is the voltage regulator?

Ford shop says no and that it is my fault as the shop who installed dual batteries. I installed them properly and used a high quality battery isolator(130amp). I think the alternator has a problem with the diode trio or voltage regulation circuit. Checked grounds and all connections. I allready paid a bill for $170.00 to the customers' Ford dealership because they said it was my fault and that they fixed it but customer states problem never went away. Seems like Fords' problem now since they charged for and were paid to fix the problem. Any input would be appreciated from anyone who has been in my shoes.

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R Jackson
Owner/Installer
TRM Emergency Vehicles
Information is advice only and should be confirmed with OEM or quality test equipment.
Boyertown, Pennsylvania

It is likely that it is the voltage regulator, but it does not sound like it is. Did the Isolator require a voltage sense line? The Isolator I installed needed a sense line from the main battery to keep the voltage regulator at the proper output for the battery and electronics.
If you can get the vehicle, try putting a voltmeter on the main battery and turn on all accessories, then rev up the motor while monitoring the voltage. What does the voltage do?
Another problem could be that the belt is a little loose and when the motor is reved up the Alternator pulley slips, causing the alternator to change the output of its charge.
Were the lights changed to a higher wattage bulb? or a different bulb than the standard? the wires might not be big enough to carry the current.

Just some suggestions to try, keep us informed as to what you find.
Tom

The isolator had an "E" or excite lead on it and it was my understanding from the installation instructions that this wire needed to go to an ignition lead and not to the battery as you propose. Sounds like maybe I'm using a different type of isolator. I will check these other points and let you know. Thanks for the info.

I am interested in your opinion on the fact that I paid Ford to fix the problem and it remains uneffected. Just curious.

Bulbs are factory standard.

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R Jackson
Owner/Installer
TRM Emergency Vehicles
Information is advice only and should be confirmed with OEM or quality test equipment.
Boyertown, Pennsylvania

I would be asking for my money back since they didnt fix the problem and refuse to work on it further...thats kinda BS in my opinion...I dont even bother talking to staff anymore, I just approach the manager...you shouldnt have to pay for their incompetence...

The "E" lead going to the Ignition wire is basically the same as going to the main battery, just that you do not have voltage there until the key is turned to the ignition setting. If that wire is hooked up, then it should be fine.
As to the part of the dealership charging $170.00 and saying they fixed it, then also stating it was your fault. I think you are getting the south end of the horse. Take the invoice and any other documentation you have (including the installation instructions from the isolator), go to the Service Manager of the dealership and see what he says. If that does not get you anywhere, then go to the owner. Last, go to Form Motor Company.
Has the customer or you taken the vehicle back to the dealership for a customer comeback? Since they say they fixed it, but the problem is still there, that is a comeback(warranty).
Good Luck,
Tom

Customer is concerned about additional charges and does not really want to deal with them any more than I do. I think I need to disprove my involvement with the problem and then go to Ford. I am losing money at this point but I have a good relationship with this customer and do not want to strain it on account of a lunkhead dealer.

Some days you're the windshield and some days you're the bug!!!

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R Jackson
Owner/Installer
TRM Emergency Vehicles
Information is advice only and should be confirmed with OEM or quality test equipment.
Boyertown, Pennsylvania

OK here's the skinny on how this ended up! I spent the afternoon at the customers location. Long story's short, When installing a dual battery on a Ford Crown Victoria DO NOT run the ground to the rear frame rail. This is a floating subframe assembly mounted with rubber body mounts. There is a ground strap from the body to the frame but insufficient for main ground. I removed the ground from the frame and bolted it to bare sheet metal within the trunk. No more tears!!

When I know an answer I try to help and when I screw up I hope that others can learn from my mistakes!!! F.Y.I.

PS- still not sure wether to hammer dealer for money back or just let it be.

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R Jackson
Owner/Installer
TRM Emergency Vehicles
Information is advice only and should be confirmed with OEM or quality test equipment.
Boyertown, Pennsylvania

I say hammer dealer... as they tried to fix, said they did, but probably never even took it serious enough in the first place... Looked it over, probbed a few points on lights an alternator if you are lucky and then said yup there it is, fixed, that'll be $170!

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JB

My thoughts exactly. I'll see how the mood strikes me in the morning!

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R Jackson
Owner/Installer
TRM Emergency Vehicles
Information is advice only and should be confirmed with OEM or quality test equipment.
Boyertown, Pennsylvania

Okay, here's a good one. I work for a Ford dealer. I'm a little curious as to what you got charged for, but in my opinion I would definitely hammer them to at least knock it down to the standard diag fee. They are going to argue that you have installed aftermarket parts and in a dealership that is a big no-no, but if you can prove that they didn't fix the problem your point will be made. Just a little more fuel to add to the fire, dealerships get paid on a basis of surveys. Threaten them with a bad servey and they will probably cooperate. I don't work for the service side of it and only a small percentage of my pay is based on serveys, but I do get sick of being ripped off just like anyone else. Good luck with it.

I hammered a dealer a few weeks ago, and you can too! I had a 4wd hub go out on the highway, and took it to an authorized Chevy dealership to have it fixed. They fixed it and charged me the $100 deductible for my MajorGuard warranty. A week later, the same hub went out with the same problem, only this time it expanded to the differential, the electrical system and the oil hoses. (I have no idea how, but they all went out at once) I called the dealer after $5,400 of repair work was done on my Blazer. (Always buy the extended warranty, it was all covered!!!) I told them that I would sue for faulty repair work and creating an unsafe condition on a public road, and that $100 was back in my bank account so fast I couldn't believe it. I was so mad that I bought a new truck.
      You can always get the dealer, just appeal to how much business you bring them and you'll get them good.

Cary

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Well here's the scoop. The dealer is full of it. After another 6 hours looking at my own wiring that they said was the problem I found out that it was a friggin' Ford problem.

The 3 conductor connector on the back of the alternator was bad. Spent all day Saturday tracking down new termninals and fixing the problem. I am a hero to my customer but I plan to go to the dealer all full of piss and vinegar to let them know what I think. Ford service is definitely sub-par!!!!

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R Jackson
Owner/Installer
TRM Emergency Vehicles
Information is advice only and should be confirmed with OEM or quality test equipment.
Boyertown, Pennsylvania