all dash lights are on
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: General Mobile Electronics Questions and Answers
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131942
Printed Date: May 09, 2025 at 11:39 PM
Topic: all dash lights are on
Posted By: deeryders
Subject: all dash lights are on
Date Posted: August 03, 2012 at 11:27 PM
I have a 2009 Altima 3.5. Less than a month ago my battery and brake light came on so I replaced my alternator with a brand new one. As I am driving today I cut the wheel left to make a U turn and the car cut off on me mid way.the car refused to turn on but eventually did.nothing came on (radio lights etc.) And the steering was stiff. Everything eventually came on but all nut dash lights are on. What could it be? Alternator slipped? I have two batteries 2 amps totaling 2400rms. Two w7s all ran with zero gauge.
-------------
MECP Certified
Dont Ground Out!!!
Replies:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 04, 2012 at 3:30 PM
Why would you replace the alternator if the battery and brake lights came on?
If all your dash lights come on it certainly isn't a battery problem.
Sounds more like a grounding problem to me.
Get someone with diagnostic gear to look at your car AFTER you disconnect everything you've installed including an R/S if installed by you.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: deeryders
Date Posted: August 04, 2012 at 4:47 PM
So after some time the lights came off and was working well until I turned left and the car shut off again with the return of the lights.after I turned the car off and turned it on after some time and I drove the light came off again
-------------
MECP Certified
Dont Ground Out!!!
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: August 05, 2012 at 2:11 AM
FYI:
Many vehicles use the alternator's (voltage regulator's) charge-light circuit to test dash lights - eg, brake-fault, low-fuel, etc but NOT oil-pressure, handbrake, high-beam, indicators etc.
The same circuit often controls electric fuel pumps, fuel cut-off valves or electric chokes in carburetted vehicles.
A common limp-home solution is to merely disconnect the alternator's charge light circuit else disconnect its voltage regulator.
The charge light - especially with the paralleled "tested" lights - is usually enough to energise the relay that controls fuel pumps etc.
As to your problem, I agree with Howie.
It's probably a bad ground, or even bad battery terminal connections - are the clean and tight? - a loss of battery usually stalls an engine, especially when flashing or applying brakes.
For any particular circuit, do the usual - rotate all same-sized fuses and disconnect & reconnect connectors involved. (That rotates intermittent fuses and usually remakes bad connections.)
PS - I hope you use a battery isolator.
|