different t splicing method

I don't know if this is old information, but I came up with this method of making t splices using a non-insulated crimp connector.

https://picasaweb.google.com/112669300518977811960/TSplice?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOi2_8uLy8_M7QE&feat=directlink

Basically you cut off the spade and use the special crimping tool. In my car I have already seen many of those crimped connectors, however used with the spade :-). So it should be a reliable type of connection. What do you think?

Lucas

Sorry, the link is:

Link to Picasa

Lucas

Cool splice

Very good. And quite solderable too.

Thanks!

Bloody waste of time, sorry but 1" (25.4mm) of shrink plus solder will do a better job for less money and time.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hmmm - I don't disagree...
And I'll usually do just that - twist the wires (for physical strength) and solder, then insulate - these days with heatshrink!

Sometimes I don't solder for various reasons - eg the classic intended "temporary install" or emergency fix. (And not that I recommend a twist-only join, but my temps and emergencies are still working fine even after a decade. Of course, being a professional I know how to twist with quality )


But IMO that splice "trick" is handy because it may be a better splice than mere twisting in emergency etc situations where soldering is impractical.
And it looks more professional than a twist - even if it is soldered.

Also I note that my vehicles have the same type of splice joins as OEM wiring - and no solder.
Admittedly the OEM crimp U or ring may be stiffer than the type shown, but I have never had one of those OEM splices fail.
And yes, my daily (and only!) drive for the past 13 years has been a 1965 ute, and it's been as bogged and abused as my 1964 competitive rally car.
In fact the only problems I have had with the OEM wiring is connector corrosion (after say 20 years) and heat-hardening etc of terminal ends and insulation leading to eventual vibration breakage.
However my vehicles predate modern low-current (hi impedance) circuits like sensors & ECUs etc, though I have added my own such circuits.   Nevertheless, it amazes me how well the mere physical electrical joints (crimps) have held!


But I agree with Howard - a soldered join should be better and will be better if twisted (ie, physically stronger, especially if "soft" crimps are used), and is probably simpler and quicker.
And for low-signal stuff like alarms, audio inputs or ECU sensors etc, to not solder is usually asking for trouble.

One more point. A good solder joint LOWERS the contact resistance at the joint.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Only if there is no solder between the copper to copper contact - ie, surrounding solder prevents oxidisation of that contact - and where whetted, the cu-solder-cu resistance remains less than an oxidised cu-cu contact.
That's in cases where solder has worse conductivity than cu which is usually the case.

Of course any solder provides conduction between the otherwise non-conducting inter-circle cu gaps.

But a high-contact area (crushed) high pressure solderless crimp verses more circular soldered cu...?


Alas I occasionally tease with the "why better conductivity" (lower resistance) if solder has a higher resistance than the copper?
But I provided the main reason for that (ie, the non-contacting "raw" copper surfaces). But why should I provide such spoilers?

Isn't this where you poke and wrap... WB Howie... Missed ya man...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Poke and wrap AND solder works for me, thank you Tommy.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

This kind of splice is not new, they are called crimpbands. They are available from places like digikey. You do need to know what size wires you will be joining though. They are sized according to the total circular mil of the wires to be joined.

Here is an example, crimpband link

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.