second battery set up

Will this work out ok, or do I HAVE TO replace my 2ga run from front to back with 0ga?

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2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

I'll let others comment about the wire gauges (noting that your amps may also consume 230A or more; then add back battery recharge current).

But to have omitted the 2nd fuse between the 2 batteries - one at each end.


And unless you intend to open the connection between the batteries when not in use, I'd suggest an automated battery isolator.
If you have a charge light, for the best and cheapest google uibi or 'uibi oldspark'.

So your saying that my alt won't keep up with 2360 watts?

SHould I run the second battery straight to the alternator? I mean if they share the post on the alternator, isn't that the same?

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2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

No I'm not saying that (and as you say, they are the same).

I'm saying:
- you need TWO fuses between the batteries - one near each battery, &
- you should not leave batteries permanently paralleled (that's one reason automatic battery isolators are used).

ok, I understand that, but what do people have when they are pulling so many more watts than 2360?

I mean I see setups with 1 alt, and 2 batts with way more power than me

and what amp rating isolator would I need?

-------------
2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

I'm not getting into the power side at all other than pointing out your max possible current down the rear line - ie, full output amp draw plus the 2nd battery recharge current.
Many have your load with smaller alternators - after all, if your alt isn't at adequate RPM then it won't output its full amperage.
How big an alternator depends on (1) if dipping to (say) 12.7V or lower is ok during surges or low RPM, and (2) if the alternator is required to replace the used battery charge over a normal driving cycle (as opposed to external charging).


I am merely emphasising your missing fuse, and the desire for isolation when not in use.
Isolation during cranking is probably not an issue since your inter-battery link is likely to be sized appropriately. (And sharing the cranking extends battery life assuming the 2nd battery is not small.)   Hence maybe an IGN controlled or amp-remote isolator if not a UIBI.


The isolator has to be rated higher than the fuses you are using.
But you just need a suitable isolator and have that run the actual isolator relay. (IE you don't need a 200A or 400A isolator; a 2A or 30A etc isolator should do and that can drive a 200A or 400A relay/contactor.)

How did this go - have you decided what type of isolator you'll use (if any?).


A later thought I had was that if the 2nd battery is an AGM, you might consider a 3rd else capacitor to extend AGM life.
That can be added later if you find the AGM dies prematurely.
Caps are often used on large systems of ~3kW & higher output, but a duplicate battery also reduces surge demand (by half).
(AGMs do not like supplying high currents.)

I was unable to get the battery as of yet. Looking at the Stinger's, but work got in the way

I was able to take a 1st place yesterday inthe StreetBeat 4 category at the Import SHowdown hitting 142db with my sealed boxes. Plus the judge for SQ said my staging needs a little tweeking but my highs and mids are impecable

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2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

Stateside I've heard Kinitek & Delco AGMs are good.
I get the impression the Stinger is expensive (for no gain else its relabeled or whatever).