Print Page | Close Window

Find Cut Wire With 9V Battery?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: General Mobile Electronics Questions and Answers
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136687
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 10:33 PM


Topic: Find Cut Wire With 9V Battery?

Posted By: jibjab90
Subject: Find Cut Wire With 9V Battery?
Date Posted: May 24, 2014 at 10:50 AM

I have an 04 crown Victoria (ex police cruiser) and I'm trying to find where a particular wire was cut in the door (the wire ends at the door latch and goes to the LCM under the steering coloumn).

Basically instead of tearing everything apart to find the cut, I'm wondering if there's a way I can send a charge to the wire at the door latch with a 9 volt battery and test it with a probe or multimeter to the next easiest access point to the wire (ie. The door jamb or the LCM). The idea is that if I get a signal at the door jamb then I know the wire is not cut in the door but in the car.

Hopefully this makes sense. If this can work, I imagine I'd hook the ground up to a metal part and just use a posi tap to hook the positive terminal to the wire in question. Then test further down the line.

Any reason why this may or may not work? Thanks for any input.



Replies:

Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 24, 2014 at 11:30 AM
It may work, but I wouldn't recommend it. I'd use a voltage/ohm meter to simply check continuity between any two points on the wire to locate the break in the wire.

-------------
posted_image the12volt • Support the12volt.com




Posted By: jibjab90
Date Posted: May 24, 2014 at 11:53 AM
Oh wow, I'm a moron lol, I didn't realize I could simply do that with a multimeter. Kind of a noob with this stuff lol




Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: May 24, 2014 at 1:10 PM
Ha - weren't we all!

Many DMMs have a "Continuity Test"; I make sure mine include audible buzzer.
Continuity is usually when below 50 Ohms - it does NOT mean a short circuit.

I use Ohms when the multimeter has no Continuity test.


Of course, NEVER do an Ohms or Continuity (or Diode etc) test on a powered circuit; disconnect batteries etc.




Posted By: jibjab90
Date Posted: May 24, 2014 at 1:15 PM
Yea I'll probably go out and buy a multimeter with the buzzer to make my life easier lol. Thanks for the tips guys!




Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: May 24, 2014 at 1:53 PM
A test light might suffice, else be a handy addition - especially for things DMMs can't measure, or measure so easily & cheaply.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 24, 2014 at 5:07 PM
For once Peter I'm against using a test light here, this would be a CAN systems vehicle at this age in Europe so easier to stick with a DMM; you won't be injecting damaging voltage into the circuit( = damage = $$$)

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: May 25, 2014 at 3:55 AM
Thank you Master - I missed that subtle line "..at the door latch and goes to the LCM...

Of course that where oldFarts like me with my 1960s vehicles can be outright dangerous, or at least damaging.





Print Page | Close Window