what remote start to buy?

First time poster, but have visited this site for many, many years! Great site!

Just wondering which remote start/alarm/keyless entry to buy. I plan on putting this on 3 different vehicles, possibly. First one: 2004 KIA Sorento, then a 1999 Subaru Forester and finally a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac.

I'm pretty sure the Sorento doesn't have the transponder key, bought a madeup key at a locksmith and it works. Not sure about the others right now, just wanting to get this one first.

But I want a system that is reliable to buy when I need it for the other two. I'm not really interested in all the bells and whistles, just basic 4 button remotes will do fine. No LCD.

Question is, what's a good basic manufacturer for these that I can get good wiring diagrams and help from. Including you guys.

Thanks for your help!

Wow. It's really a personal preference and matter of opinion. I am a directed guy. They cost more but always reliable. Vesper or Clifford brand etc. some guys swear compustar is great. Others love good cheap crime stopper brand. My opinion. Viper or Clifford.

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Gary Sather

Thanks for the input there tonanzith, I will look into those. Appreciate the time. Anybody else.........

As Gary mentioned, everyone has their favorite.  Most major brands have products that cover the whole spectrum
of models, from very basic one-way systems to super fancy two-way color LCD remotes.  The prices go the whole
range, too.  If you stay with a major manufacturer based in North America, you will be OK.  Just remember that
no manufacturer will honor any warranty or provide any technical support to DIY installs.  Even obtaining full
installation manuals can be difficult but most of the popular ones are here in the Downloads section.  Be forewarned
that all these install manual were written for manufacturer trained professionals.  As such, they assume a lot, use
industry acronyms and are generally confusing...

As for vehicle wiring, there are several sources.  The 12V has a section for that.  Additionally you can use these
WEB sites for their wiring info :
Here is a link to Bulldog Security :  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Here is a link to Ready Remote :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

Of your three vehicles, only the Ford has a transponder based ignition immobilizer system.  There are many good
bypass modules to choose from but all need two working, non-clone, keys to program the module to the vehicle.
One of the more popular and obtainable would be the PKALL.  Here is a link to it's install guide :
https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7507&productid=196&firmwareid=1636

If you haven't done this type of automotive work before, be ready for a big learning curve.  If you apply yourself
and dig-in with a lot of preliminary reading, etc, you will be fine.  You will need soldering equipment and a Digital
Multi Meter.  Probably best to start off with the Subaru, it is the most straight-forward of the group.

Here are a few current entry level remote start, with alarm & keyless entry systems :
Compustar CS600-AS    $80
Viper  5606V      $120    * only one remote
Audiovox Prestige APS787E      $80
Omega AL1630EDPB     $80
Avital 5103         $80    * similar to Python 5103P
Python 5106P    $130

There are many others that I did not mention, so do a bunch of research to see which system meets all your
needs and requirements.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg, thx for replying, appreciate it. Also for the links.

So you have to have two original keys, hmmmm, I guess when you have the module to learn the code, it needs both? I do have two keys, but am curious as to why.

I've already ordered and due in today, the compustar CS-700-AS model. Seemed like the best to me, with the added transponder system. Actually though, going to start on the 2004 Kia Sorento.

I've been in electronic repair since, roughly, 1974. Old fart here, hahahaa. Work in maintenance at a automotive factory now. Had my own business for 13 years (technically for 18). Just getting a little old to do the twisting and bending that I use to............hahahaha.

I really appreciate you getting back with me. So, why does the units have to have two original keys? Thx for any and ALL help!!!

Hi,
The Ford requires two original keys to program the bypass module, because the bypass module is programmed like an additional key. Ford usually explains the procedure of key programming in the owners manual.
https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/01p27og6e.pdf   pages 94-95.
Mark

Thx Ween, appreciate the input. Any help is always appreciated.

Ok, bought the Computstar CS-700-AS with the CM600AS Module. Got everything put in, most is working just fine. The Direct Wire was the best install wiring diagram. Basically everything was where it said it was. The others were a bit hard to follow/find. This is a 2004 Sorento.

Now the tough question. The lock/unlock function is not working right. At this point, what I have is the FOB with unlock/lock all doors but the drivers door. And to throw in a kicker, the actual door lock/unlock will not work either.

The story (as best as I can explain it, from memory): Got most everything hooked up, working, and couldn't get the FOB to unlock/lock any doors, except the trunk glass. On a different circuit, I assume. Started trying to trace things out, and noticed no clock, or chime sound. Found a blown fuse under the hood, can't remember which, off hand, but it was a 10 amp. Now like everybody, I'm pretty sure I didn't short anything out to do this, though mistakes happen. Been wiring, soldering, electronic repair for 35 years. Anyway, can't figure that one out.

The door lock/unlock in the drivers side just will not work. Even with the key in the door, as far as the electronics work, the manual part of the lock works. And will not work with the lock/unlock switch on the door panel. Now I checked the Power lock/unlock wires (DirectWire) Blue and White and they are transitioning, changing voltage when I actuate the Fob for lock/unlock, but get no solenoid sound from the drivers door, only all the others. And, I can actually put 12V on the Unlock Motor wire, White, at pin 2 of this same plug and it will actuate the unlock motor.

Hope I explained this right. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. A nice schematic wiring for the 2004 Sorento would be very nice. I sent an email to Kiatech to ask them if they have this specific wiring for the lock/unlock circuit to the ETACS module. I don't mind paying a bit for that. But don't want to waste either. Again, thx.

I am assuming that you are wiring it this way :

Compustar 2004 Kia Sorento
POWER LOCK         CN4 Blue/Black           BLUE (TYPE B)  IN DKP, @ DOOR HARNESS or White 20 pin plug, pin 10 
POWER UNLOCK    CN4 Blue         WHITE (TYPE B)  IN DKP, @ DOOR HARNESS or White 20 pin plug, pin 7

Being as your Sorento was working OK prior to install and you did find a blown fuse afterwards, I think I would
disconnect these lock wires and if the Sorento is not back to normal, troubleshoot the problem until resolved.

Sorry, I don't have access to the factory schematics for your car.  There might be some forum members that
do dealer install's on these cars and hopefully do have sources.

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Soldering is fun!

Yes Kreg, that's correct. It had to be something I did or the remote start. I really watched as not to short anything. But who knows now. Anyway. As they say sh it happens.

I found somewhat of a pin out of the ETACS module. Not sure if it's correct. I may take out the radio and check those pin outs.

Thanks again Kreg, for your help. Hey, do you know if Kiatechs info would have something on the door lock/unlock? Schematics and the such.

Never used KIATechs, so not sure about them. I believe most vehicle manufacturers' shop manuals have very detailed troubleshooting procedures that are described in a "step by step" manor that they use in the dealership to troubleshoot problems. I have purchased them for vehicles that I intend to own for many years. Typically it's a multi-volume set ( 3 or more ) that are sometimes quite expensive ( $300+ ). I see these used and sometimes as CD's on EBay once in a while, too.

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Soldering is fun!

Just some food for thought. The white drivers door motor unlock wire(pin 2) is supposed to rest at ground. If you are applying 12 volts to that wire you should be blowing a fuse. Unless of course you blew the solder trace on the Circuit board that supplies the ground internally. What I would do is check your driver door motor wires with a meter. I'm thinking your white wire(pin 2) is dead. Put your meter on a known ground and probe the white wire with red. Press unlock, it should goto 12volts for about a second while the other doors unlock. Then put your red probe on a known 12volt source and your black probe on the white wire. you should read 12volts on your meter until you press unlock. Report back with what you get with your test.

I see what your saying now, flobee. I found, maybe, a door wiring diagram. Not absolutely sure it's for the 2004, but possible. I would think it would be close anyway. Not that I'm bailing out on creating a problem, but I had problems from the beginning with the door lock/unlock. And I may have created another by doing what I did. I see that with the schematic now. I think while troubleshooting the problem, I screwed something else up. Just wish I had had a real schematic. Can't be sure, but it seems I metered that point and it is transitioning ok. But I would have to verify that.

But since the other doors work, it seems it's from the connector, where I was at, to the door motor. It splits off, from a connector and goes to the other door motors. The others actuate fine.

Well, unfortunately, I don't have time to look at it again, until Friday.

Again, thx very much for your help and everyone else. I really appreciate it. I will check that voltage as soon as I can.

Well the reason the drivers door is the only one not working is that the drivers door is a separate circuit for unlocking. Most cars now a days have the drivers door as a separate circuit. Thats how they get drivers door priority to work(press the unlock button once on the factory remote and just the drivers door unlocks, press it a second time and the rest of the doors unlock.) The Lock motor wire remains common for all the doors. Thats why I think that its your drivers door unlock motor wire at pin 2 that is dead, because the other doors lock/unlock properly. That white wire needs to rest at ground in order for the drivers door to lock and it needs to goto positive in order for the door to unlock. If its dead(no ground at rest and no Positive at unlock) then the drivers door will do nothing. It is repairable if that wire is indeed dead. Thats why I need you to test it first to see if my thinking is correct.

Thanks for everyones help, don't want to leave anyone out, and especially you flobee.

On the white wire, pin 2, there is no voltage at rest. when you actuate the lock button on the door switch, it goes to 12v momentarily. Hit the unlock button, nothing. If you reverse polarity, it's at 12v at rest, constant, and goes to ground when you hit the lock button. Nothing when you hit the unlock button.

Out of pure determined curiousity, and studying the wiring diagram that I have, it kinda looks like to me that a wire is burnt from the motor to the connector where all the other door wires connect for this white wire circuit. But, again, not sure whether my diagram is right. After studying it, I figured I could take my current meter and put inline with this wire and ONLY hit the lock button and yeeehaaaww, the drivers side motor locked the door. So, you seem to be absolutely correct on the bad ground wire there Flobee!! Now to find it.

On the diagram I have, it shows it going from the door motor, pin 6, up to connector SC-05, pin 6. It shows inside of this connector, that's where the other wires connect together. So, it must be from this connector back to the motor that's bad. Correct? If so, where is this connector? On my diagram, it shows this SC-05 connector runs off left, with one wire, to the ICM module, where the lock/unlock relays are.

Again, thanks a bunch for all your help. Greatly appreciated!

And forgot to ask, does the KIAtech website have specific wiring diagrams for such as this. I sent them an email, they sent one back asking me to call them. Don't mind paying a little, but don't want to waste my money.

PM sent about your test results

Just to let people know what I came up with. I found it, with much help from Flobee, about a week ago. But have been busy with other stuff to post. Flobee is very good at what he does. Thanks man.

Apparently my goof up caused a wire or trace to burn up in the ETACS module. The lock/unlock relay board was fine. With what schematics I had, it showed a little different direction of the wiring. The way they route the wiring in these vehicles is hard to follow. Where I should have removed the ETACS and check it, I didn't. I basically just ran a wire from the Drivers door motor (actually a connector by the drivers kick panel, up high, pin 2, white wire) over to the lock/unlock relay board. About 6-8 inches away. This did the trick to get the drivers door to lock/unlock. Hope this helps someone in the future.