Weird Preblem...Complicated Please Help

Hi...I recently installed two audiobahn 10's, a kenwood deck and a audiobahn A2150HCT in my friends Dodge Ram 1500. I got it all hooked up and had it working. The speakers are dual 4's so I had each speaker paralled to a two ohm load so each channel was seeing two ohms and putting out around 300 watts. My friend goes hope happy but decides to try and bridge the speakers so the amp sees a .5 ohm load (correct). It worked for about 20 minutes then the amp went into protection. He brings it back over and i wire it back to how i originally had it but the amp will not even turn on. The protection light comes on for like 5 seconds but then fades off. So i was like damn...you fried your amp. Then just randomly i run a jumper from the remote turn on terminal to the constant 12 terminal. With the jumper the amp shoukld turn on right. Well it didnt. Then i turn the car on and the amp turns on and it works how it should but i got that jumper that shouldnt be there. I checked both the remote wire and the constant 12 and i am getting power out of both of them. I checked all fuses in the entire car and they are all good. SO then i take my amp (RE 35.1D that i know is good) and put it in his truck. Nothing. I have to put the jumper in for it to work. I thin put his amp in my jeep and it works correctly without the jumper. So I am pretty postitive that his amp is good but there is something wrong in the wiring. But I am cluless. Sory for the long post. Hope someone can help.           

ok get a test light or multimeter and make sure you get 12V  CONSTANT from the battery wire...and 12V ONLY when the car is on from the remote wire.  its sounds to me like the remote wire may have a problem.  try this, pull the radio out and instead of the remote wire to the amp coming from the remote wire output on the radio, just tap it into the RED wire in the harness which is the accessory wire...it only has power when the car is on.  try that and if it still doesnt work, write back and let me know

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If you put the system into your friends car and it worked perfectly when he left, then if he decided ON HIS OWN to change the wireing, thats 100% his fault.
The worst is when you spent your time and make the install very clean and the system sounding great, and then your friend or cust. f*cks everything up. Its 20 times worst when its a friend too b/c you probably charged him next to nothing and did a super clean job!!

Just something to think about

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Cruisin Security And Sounds

YOUR PROBLEM IS YOUR GROUND I HAVE SEEN THIS 100 TIMES AT MY STORE.ALWAYS REMEMBER CHECK THE GROUND FIRST.THE ONLY OTHER THING WOULD BE THE FUSE.I ASSUME YOU HAVE FUSED IT AND WITH A GLASS BULB FUSE.IF YOUR FRIEND RAN HIS AMP THAT HARD THE SOLDER CONNECTION IN AGU FUSES ARE POOR TO SAY THE LEAST,RE GROUND IT AND CHANGE THE FUSE I BET IT PLAYS AS GOOD AS EVER.

sounds like a ground problem. try this: using your digital voltmeter (dvm) take the red lead to the 12v @ the amp and the black lead to another source of ground in the truck.(other than the original ground for the amp) do you have 12v? if not ,check the fuse @ battery.  do the same for the remote turn-on wire.now take the black lead to the grounding point @ the amp so that you're metering across the amp's connections of the 12v side and the ground. do you have 12v.? if not, try another grounding point inside the truck for the amp. hope this helps. another thought....when testing the remote wire and 12v, make sure the wires are disconnected from the amp b/c sometimes the remote wire is all the amp needs to "see" in order for the amp turn-on light to come on.( which would indicate a blown fuse or bad ground)