What If?

:oops:  Guys I have some What IF.....questions. I am very interested in Mobile Electronics and hope u could clear these questions so I can have a good nites rest, cause I am really really hungery for answers @ my mind wont rest till. PLease help...

1) What if your remote starter has two. 12+volt wires on the module itself. And the car only has one 12volt power supply? How do u do the hook up? Using relays? Diodes? JUmp them together?

2) What if the car itself has more than one accessory wire, such as the chrysler ciruss 1996 and up? How do u hook it up to a remote starter module with only one accessory avaliable?

3)Looking @ diagrams I came accross chryslers vechiles such as dodge caravans with 3.3L, 3.5L, and 3.8L that have multi-coils. Only having one tach wire on the R.S module, what do u do just hook up to one of the coils or use diodes and hook up all three? Or jump them all(the coil wires) to the one tach on the remote starter module?

4) what if something is GrND such as Power locks on a say XXX vechile. How do u know the wire u have selected is truly the trigger for unlock. I know with 12volts + polarity u, use a DMM and check to see if a reading occurs when the unlock button is pressed, but what about GRND.

THanks guys please answer these Newbie lame questions I really wanna pursue this to the fullest extent.

P.S Please be paitient with me

;)

Guys for question #4 I suppose u use a test light to complete the circut, and should trigger the function.......but am not sure. Am I right? Please do tell!!!

4) what if something is GrND such as Power locks on a say XXX vechile. How do u know the wire u have selected is truly the trigger for unlock. I know with 12volts + polarity u, use a DMM and check to see if a reading occurs when the unlock button is pressed, but what about GRND.

Guys for question #4 I suppose u use a test light to complete the circut, and should trigger the function.......but am not sure. Am I right? Please do tell!!!

 It sounds like you're trying to check for the presence of a ground connection on a specific wire when a function is triggered?..

 If so, then you could use either a test light or a DMM to check.. for either way, probe the suspect wire with one test lead, and connect the other test lead to +12V.  When the function is triggered the suspected wire should tie to ground; the test light should illuminate, or the meter will show battery voltage (12v)

 Personally, on power circuits, I like to use a test light only because it loads the circuit more than a DMM does.. the test light can do a better job of ID'ing resistance in the circuit... much for the same reason that voltage drop measurements are the way to go for checking starter (the actual starter) wiring.

 Regards,

 Jim

Thanks Guys 4 the replys.......Could someone please answer the rest of the questions.....like having 2 power wires on the remote starter............and having only one Power wire on the IGN harness......

And the question about the Dodge Caravans 1996 and up........if it has multi coil do u just hook up to one coil and call it a day......somtimes u have to go 4 the INjector Pumps.....if u got for them do they get treated like a coil tach...........meausre using AC on DMM......and checking to see if idle speed increases the Voltage......

thanks

going to be scrolling and replying at the same time... bare with me

#1: Some will argue this to the death. IF you need 2 12+V wires, and only have 1 in the ignition harness ~ Run a 10-12gauge wire to the battery fused.

#2 If the car has 2+ accessory wires, and your RS unit has 1, you will need to use relays. 12V 86 & 87. 85= ground when running output from R/S. 30 is now your 2nd ignition wire/accessory wire.

#3 The tach signal on vehicles with multiple coils can usually be found comming out of the ECM, or Engine Controll Module. This will be in your diagrams marked "Tach". If there is no tach signal, a single coil wire will work fine. The R/S unit will learn how fast or a pulse (from the coil) "Running" is, and crank the engine till it see that pulse.

#4 To determine if its a - trigger for the doors, simply ground one end of your DMM, touch the other end to the wire bared back, set it for OHMS, flip the switch and it will ZERO out if that is the correct wire. Naturally, before doing this step you will determine is its reverse polarity or positive pulse. To confirm your theory, use a jumper wire from "this wire" to ground. If it locks/unlocks, thats your wire and your set.

The problem with doing this is when you run into single wire systems that need resistors. Best to read the wiring diagram to determine the size of the resistor

Good luck

ok here goes,

1)normally hooking up both 12v wires from your rs to the 12v wire in the car would be fine but as i saw in your second post it looks like you are putting this in a 96 caravan. Im not sure what year is starts on but i know some caravans have 16 or 22 guage ignition wires (this is very rare) not nearly big enough for the remote starter. With these cars you have to run a wire to your battery. there is a small grommet directly above the gas pedle that pushes out from the engine compartment into the pass compartment. You can run a piece of 10 guage wire through that nicely. Just make sure you seal it with some caulking. If the wires in the ignition harness are about the same size as the ones on your remote starter then you can just disregard all that and hook up both 12v wires to the one in your car.

2)If you have more than one accessory wire just use the seccond igniton wire and program the remote starter to make it function like an accessory wire. If you dont have that option you can go with the relay.

3)The gray or gray/red wire on the ignition coil is were you want to get your tach signal from on a 96 caravan. If there is more than on just use one. Make sure you "tach learn" the remote starter, basically the rs has to learn what the corrrect ac volatge is for your car when it idles. The manual will tell you how to do that. If you dont want to bother with tach you can program the rs for voltage sence. Basically the car sences the increase in the cars voltage when the car starts from 12v ->14.4 v.  this should also be described in your manual.

4)Do yourself a favor and do not use a test light. Just use a DMM yes they are a little slower but if you set off your airbags or short something using a test light you wont be happy. anyways, a 96 caravan has what is called a "one wire" doorlock system. the wire is WHITE/ green located in the far left plug at the bottom of your fuse box under the drivers side dash. you need a 4020 ohm resistor for lock and a 665 ohm resistor for unlock if you have a factory security system (this will also arm/disarm the system as well). If you dont have a factory security system a 1500ohm resistor will lock and a 250ohm will unlock. In order to get better access to this wire it someitmes is easier to unplug the plug it goes into and cut back the tape that is wrapped around it. Just be sure not to turn on the car when the plug is unpluged or you may set off a check engine light or something. As for the wiring of a one wire doorlock system it can be found on this site under the doorlocks section. As for testing for a ground trigger you can either set yoru dmm to ohms and put one lead to ground and the other to the suspect wire and if the dmm reads zero when the doorlocks activate then that is the correct wire for a neg trigger doorlocks. You may also set yoru dmm to dc voltage and put the red probe to +12v and the black probe to the suspect wire, if the dmm displays 12v when the doorlocks acitvate then you have the correct wire. in the case of the one wire for the caravan you should use the second technique. When not doing anythign the wire will read some voltage (dunno what) and when you flick the power doorlock switch a differnt voltage will appear then when you ficks the bower doorlock switch the other way a third voltage will appear.

g'luck