Ammeter installation

Can i just creat a loop with the unused portion of the fuse block in my stereo for an ammeter. or does it actually have to be inline with the amp??

Please help..

Thanks!

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Hunter S. Thompson for sheriff

Must be in line.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Why cant i just install it in a power wire loop created off the fuse block? WHat will happen?

If its inline wont it weaken the power wire strength.. the weakest link??

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Hunter S. Thompson for sheriff

The only way to measure amperage is in-line. And yes it cause a loss. I don't really understand why people even want these.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

So we can tell how much Amps are Power Amps are drawing.
Indicates any improvment from Electrical System upgrades..

Good enough mr blind amp?

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Hunter S. Thompson for sheriff

But why exactly, and specifically, do you need to know how many amps the amplifier is drawing? For most people this information is absolutely useless, just like driver sensitivity. Even if you had a need for this information, you still shouldn't need it all the time and would only used it for tuning information. Also, how does an ammeter tell you if electrical system upgrades help audio performance, the amplifier's current draw will be just about the same whether you alternator is putting out 85 amps or 300 amps. If the amplifier manufacturer is a decent then their spec sheet will tell you exactly how many amps it can draw.

Sorry, just don't understand the need for this on an amplifier.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Your right. I just picked it up for 6 bucks at CT.. 

But i dont want it inline, i want it monitoring the whole system in the trunk..

Theres 2 spots on the fuseblock  i can loop, cut the loop , put the meter in...

Are you telling me that theres no Amprage in a power wire connected to the batt at both ends??

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Hunter S. Thompson for sheriff

Look around for a digital ammeter that uses a shunt bar and sense leads.  It's a little safer than running inline...

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But theres no amperage in the unused portion of my Fuse Block???

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Hunter S. Thompson for sheriff

I hope you do realize that the current you will be measuring is dynamic, and not static.

If your intent was to measure the current output of the alternator, then that would be something worth doing.

But to monitor the amplifier, that isn't neccessary. As
backinblack_gp stated, you would be wise to install a digital ampere meter, which uses a shunt.

Having another high current transferring cable, will only cause you more grief.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

why not just test the wires when the stuff is running by haveing points that u can connect/disconnect the ammeter when u want.  that way u can see how much juice youre using and to keep the juice flow as high as possible u can just disconnect the ammeter....some amps come with built in ammeters.  I agree with Teken though, it would be worth measuring the alternater if u dont have an ammeter hooked up to that yet...thats more vital.

I'm not really sure how this thread got dragged back to the top, but I have heard a couple of people say to use the shunt method. This is the better way to do it, I don't even know WHAT this "loop" thing is you are talking about. Some of the better meter/shunt combos I have found, and coincidentally the ones I use, are from Datel. That's the link directly to the page for the digital meters, and this will get you right to the shunt resistors. This is to the meter pdf, for all of your technical information is there. Your meter version MUST be a high-side, isolated model, or, unless you have an isolated power supply in you car to power the meter itself, you'll blow it up! The model I went with was the DCA5-20PC-5-DC4-BS. This is the 50mV, 8 to 36 volt, isolated power, blue LED version. Not cheap, at 72.00, but it is useful.

Also, everybody seems to mention monitoring the output of your alternator, and this is smart... It is FAR more important to monitor your alternator output. It will allow you to know if your system is being overloaded. I did, and I am glad I did it this way. I can kkep a constant eye on my whaole car's current demands, and I know if I am getting close to the output capabilities of my alternator.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."