tried to fix it, made it worse

About 3 years ago I installed a cheap bulldog remote starter in my 2000 cavalier. A year ago, I decided to install a good remote starter w/ alarm, so I bought the DEI 550 ESP, removed the bulldog remote starter,and installed the DEI. Having little time for the install, I did a half assed job when running the wires. This past weekend, inspired by wires falling down from under the dash, I decided to re-install the remote starter once again.

Well, due partly to laziness, partly to stupidity, and mostly to the need for music, I decided not to disconnect the battery before beginning this project. While working on the large red 12V constant power ignition wire, I accidentally shorted it to ground... not once, but twice. The first time, the radio just stopped for a second than came back on. The second time, it didn't come back on. So, not only does the radio (aftermarket) not work, but the guages don't work, the key seems to have no affect when turning it to the on, start, or accessory position, no windsheild wipers, and no power windows. The headlights work, the the power locks work, and the domelight works.

I checked every fuse in the dash AND under the hood at least 4 times, both visually, and with a continuity tester. None were bad. The Red 12V wire that I shorted still has power (seems bizarre to me).

After a couple hours of troubleshooting, I decide to run a jumper wire from the battery to the fuse box. I applied the 12V to each fuse in the box until the car came back to life when I touched it to the headlight fuse. This seems weird too becasue the headlights worked before. As soon as I removed the jumper wire, the car died again. It turned out that I could touch that jumper wire to many different fuses with the same results. After several tries, the car actually stayed alive after removing the jumper wire. Starts fine and everything works. After about 10 minutes, the same thing happens, no power. I try the same jumper wire routine, and it works again. This time, it seems to have worked permanently (which I'm sceptical of becasue electrical probalems don't just go away). So, I complete the install.

So, the re-install is done, no more extra wire length under the dash, module mounted solid to a bracket, and everything looks and works good. So, this morning, I found out that the problem didn't just go away. Started the car with the remote start as usual, got in, and began my drive to work. after about 5 minutes the car just dies. Same symptoms as before, only partial electrical power throughout the car. Having no tools or spare wire handy, I resort to the old "push the wires around with your foot" routine, which brought the car back to life immediately. This happened again about 5 minutes after the first time, and I did the same thing. The car ran fine for the rest of my 50 minute commute.

Any suggestions as to what could be screwed up? I'd also like to know why a fuse didn't blow when I shorted the wire in the first place?

Thanks to anyone who actually took the time to read the entire post, and thanks again if you can provide any helpful information.

Adam

You may have dislodged the red wire from the socket going into the connecter at the key switch and it's not making contact.. When the wire was shorted, you may have pulled back quick and caught the wire with your crimps, pliers, whatever.

I had this happen in a Camaro about 8 years ago.. car wouldn't charge or anything but would run..when I was connecting a starter kill relay, it pulled the ign wire and was still in the connecter, just not making contact.

Just something to check.



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George

David's Car Stereo

Baton Rouge, LA

Sounds like a possibility, but I actually wasn't holding it with anything... just touched it. I don't think it got yanked, but I'm going to check it out anyway.

After a little research, I think I may have burnt a fusable link wire somewhere. After work, I'm going to become one with my vehicle until I figure this thing out.

Audiogod, mabye.......... Remote Start God, not so much. Im just bugging you. Most people have done something like this before. I am having a concern with your ecm possibly being shorted out. I know most people hate this advice but I would suggest getting this car hooked up to a diagnostic computer ASAP so at least you can get a general starting point.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Some times fuses look good and work while they are cool, but when they heat up they pull away from the contact. try replacing all the fuses anyway they will not cost alot. try it. also you may have a bad fusible link under the hood.

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Big Dave

hahahhahah Thats good news for everyone bro! keep it up!

Thanks for the help guys!

speedwayaudio1: Very good advice. I'll try replacing the fuse.

Ravendarat: There's no CEL or SES light, so I have to imagine that the scanner would turn up no result. I could be wroing though.

After looking at an electrical schematic for the car, I narrowed the problem down to one fuse, and sure enough, if I pull that fuse (under hood) the same exact thing occurs; partial power to the car, but no ignition whatsoever. The problem hasn't shown itself in the last 2 days (about 100 miles of driving, some on bumpy dirt roads), and I can't seem to make it happen by moving,yanking,or wiggling the wires by hand.

I'll be sure to post if I find the problem.

Thanks again everyone. Much appreciated.