PIAA Installation Questions
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: General Mobile Electronics Questions and Answers
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=41587
Printed Date: July 19, 2025 at 1:12 AM
Topic: PIAA Installation Questions
Posted By: AaronD81
Subject: PIAA Installation Questions
Date Posted: October 24, 2004 at 11:00 PM
I have PIAA 980 dual Driving/Fog lights and when I got a new alarm installed they stopped working. The place that installed the alarm said they weren't responsible. Anyway, it shouldn't be too hard but I can't find directions anywhere. Can anyone help me? I have some electronic experience, but I don't know what amp fuse or what relays need to be used.
Replies:
Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: October 25, 2004 at 1:23 PM
Its certain, that they screwed it up.
Well in any case, It would be best to check your fuse box or fuse on that line. What car do you have? How is the original switch hooked up for it?
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: October 25, 2004 at 6:23 PM
Follow the basics first.
1. Is the ground cable properly fastend, and secure with a SS screw, and star washer? Is there direct power from the battery, and is it secure?
2. Is the fuse blown? Test it with a DMM, or replace with a known good one.
3. Is the relay operational? Measure the coil resistence, it should be around 85-95 ohms, engage the relay and measure the voltage drop from the contancts, are they consistent?
4. Are all the wiring harnesses sound and fully inserted into their pin outs?
5. Is the interior power button properly powered and grounded?
6. Do a simple test and run direct power to one of the lamps one at a time, do they light up? It could very well be a bulb, but you need to verify that fact.
7. Ensure all harnesses show continuity, and low resistence by measuing the voltage drop while the unit is powered on.
Only a VDC measurement will verify 100% if the cable is sound and no internal wiring is open. Where as, if you simply do a continuity test it will verify one of several strands are intact, but does not confirm how many.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 25, 2004 at 6:55 PM
Check to see if the power wire has power when turned on, then check to see if the ground wire is still grounded. Post your results.
------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: AaronD81
Date Posted: October 25, 2004 at 8:56 PM
Here's the problem. They tore miles of wire out of the car and it's sitting in a box in my garage. They claimed it was all for the previous alarm. I had an aftermarket fuse box that had the fuses for the alarm and fog lights and all the wires going to the block have been cut , and some have been removed. Basically I need to start over. Is there a generic wiring diagram I could use?
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: October 25, 2004 at 9:22 PM
All you require is one SPDT 30-40 ampere relay, switch, 12-14 guage wire, ring terminals, and a inline fuse holder.
To wire the relay and the circuit, do so as follows.
30 = Fused +12 volts from battery
85 = Ground (-)
86 = Switch, other end of switch goes to ground (-)
87 = To fog lights which are wired in series, the other end of the fog lights is grounded. If both lights have a ground strap, then ground each light to the appropiate chassis frame.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
------------- Knowledge is power. But only if you apply that knowledge in a positive way, which promotes positive results in others.
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: AaronD81
Date Posted: October 25, 2004 at 9:30 PM
Thanks a lot. What size fuse should I use? The way you describe it looks like it would be for two 55W H3 bulbs. Is a 20amp big enough?
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: October 25, 2004 at 9:39 PM
The fuse for PIAA lights is a standard 25 ampere's. You could use a 20 ampere fuse with no problems during the summer months, but during colder months the turn on current would exceed the 20 ampere fuse, hence why they use a 25 ampere fuse for all weather performance.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
------------- Knowledge is power. But only if you apply that knowledge in a positive way, which promotes positive results in others.
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: AaronD81
Date Posted: October 25, 2004 at 9:48 PM
Thank you very much, you've been very helpful.
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: October 25, 2004 at 9:57 PM
That is why we are all here, to share a little knowledge with others. Just take the time to repay that in the future to someone else who needs to know.
The only other thing I would stress to you is this.
1. All the ground points should be free of any paint and chassis frame should be used, not just any metal partition.
Use a star washer, SS screws, and the appropiate ring terminal on the ground(s). Apply dielectric grease compond to ensure current transfer, and to inhibit moisture and corrosion.
2. All connections should be soldered, even those ring terminals which are crimped, this will ensure maximum current transfer, and will inhibit corrosion from forming at the tips of the wire strands which will induce a resistance, which then will cause voltage drops to appear.
3. If you have larger guage cable around, then use it. Bigger is always better, all the wiring I do for lights are 10 guage.
4. Place the fuse within 18" of the battery terminal. Standard is within 6 inches. The closer the better, and please use a fuse holder which has a cover. The extra 0.35 you spend will prolong your installation and will reduce the amount of current loss due to corrosion in the spade connectors.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
------------- Knowledge is power. But only if you apply that knowledge in a positive way, which promotes positive results in others.
EVIL Teken . . .
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