I would like to know if the 2003 Jeep Liberty has a common door trigger, which polarity,and the location.If, there is not a common wire, where will I find the wires for driver, passenger and rears, tailgate and liftglass, are they all negatives. will I need 4 diodes, what size of diodes, and what side for the cathode.
Thanks !
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JBT021
Use the 2002 information for the Liberty for wire colors, polarity and location :
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|red & pink/black |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|RED / blue |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|BLACK/ orange |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|BLACK/ white |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|pink/purple *1 |- |back of fusebox *2 |
| POWER UNLOCK|same wire | | |
| LOCK MOTOR|ORANGE / black | |back of fusebox *2 |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|pink/black | |back of fusebox *2 |
| DISARM DEFEAT|ORANGE / purple | |back of fusebox *2 |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|DO NOT USE | | |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|lt. GREEN/ orange *3 | |headlight switch |
| HEADLIGHTS|same wire *3 | | |
| DOOR TRIGGER|*4 |- |right of st column,blue plug|
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|tan/black *7 |- |conn. 1, pin 7 @ BCM *6 |
| HOOD PIN|BROWN / tan |- |conn. 1, pin 6 @ BCM *6 |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|ORANGE / pink |- |conn. 1, pin 17 @ BCM *6 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM| | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|lt. GREEN/ orange *5 |- |conn. 2, pin 9 @ BCM *6 |
| TACHOMETER|NOT grn/or or or/grn| |ign coil, coil pac, injector|
| SPEED SENSE|lt GREEN/ YELLOW | |conn. 1, pin 20 @ BCM *6 |
| BRAKE WIRE|WHITE/ tan |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|BLACK/ red |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|brn/wht(L),rd/yel(H)|+ |wiper motor |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|lt blue - white |A |center console window switch|
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brown - pur/wht |A |center console window switch|
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|RED / blk - blu/wht |A |center console window switch|
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/wht - gry/blk |A |center console window switch|
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE|not recommended | | |
| RADIO 12V|pink |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black |- |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|ORANGE / red |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|orange (dimmer) |+ |radio |
| LF SPEAKER|green - brn/red | |radio *8 |
| RF SPEAKER|purple - blu/red | |radio *8 |
| LR SPEAKER|brn/yel - brn/lt blu| |radio *8 |
| RR SPEAKER|blu/wht - blu/org | |radio *8 |
Notes:
NOTE: Jeep vehicles that use a gray ignition key have an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed when remote starting. *1 Lock is negative trigger thru a 1.4K ohm resistor and unlock is negative trigger thru a 426 ohm resistor. MUST use relays. *2 In the top left corner in a black plug. *3 Parking lights is negative trigger thru a 910 ohm resistor. Headlights is negative trigger thru a 349 ohm resistor. MUST use relays. *4 The driver door trigger is tan and the passenger door trigger is tan/white, use both wires and diode isolate each. *5 The factory alarm disarm is negative trigger thru a 473 ohm resistor. MUST use relay. *6 The BCM (Body Control Module) is attached to the left of the fusebox. Connector 1 is a gray 26 pin plug, and connector 2 is a gray 22 pin plug. *7 The flip up glass pin switch is yellow/white in conn. 1, pin 9 of the BCM. *8 On vehicles with the premium sound system, each speaker is individually amplified.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
or you can use the domelight output as well it is yellow 18 ga ( - ) at pin 23 on the c1 connector left side underdash
Thank you Jeff for wiring information, but I still have a problem.
My alarm is Predator 3901tw,it is alarm only, no remote starter, it is FM 2-way similar to Commando fm combo. The installer manual is very bad, there are no instructions about adjusting arming delays.The default arming delay is about 10 seconds.I have no starter kill hooked up, only hood pin, shock sensor with warn away connected to dedicated port of the brain, clifford tilt and motion sensor connected to trunk trigger,and green (-) door trigger hooked to the domelight.
The brain has a dedicated connector for door lock with red, blue and green wires mini harness, I have isolated this red since it did'nt work , so, I picked the +12 volts passed the brain fuse on the red wire to feed the coils of the door lock relays. My locking resistor is 2k ohm instead of your suggested 1.4. And my unlocking resistor is 470 ohm instead of your suggested 426 ohm.
Everything is fine when armed or at disarming.The problem is that when arming, the brain is sending an instant lock command to the pink/purple factory wire through the 2k ohm resistor to ground while the domelight is still on,so, I got bad zone report with 4 chirps warning, the zone is bypassed for a while then it is reintegrated when the domelight delay expires, 30 seconds after arming.
The factory keyless entry does'nt lock the doors the same way; it locks the doors and confirm that each and every door ,glass and gate are completely latched by honking the factory horn and, and,and by bypassing the 30 seconds delay at the domelight leaving only the 5 seconds fade away.
If I lock the doors with the factory keyless entry remote, everything is OK, except that I have to hold both remotes in my pocket.If I wait for domelight to fadeaway before arming,again everything is OK.
If I hook my green wire to the 4 triggers wires with diodes instead of domelight, I will lose the badly closed door supervision. I would like all of the followings.
Only one remote in my pocket.
Keeping bad zone supervision (children not closing the door strong enough)
Not chirping for telling me that the domelight is on.
Not waiting for the domelight to fade before arming.
Question 1.....Does someone know a way to extend the default arming delay of 10 seconds to 30 or more seconds.
Question 2...For Jeff, If I replace my resistors to your suggested values, could that change something.My values have been suggested by a local alarm shop.
Question 3....Is there any other wire (other than the pink/purple) that could lock the doors the same way as the factory keyless entry, described higher.This receiver should have a way to be hardwired.
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JBT021
You will need to double diode isolate each door trigger inorder to bypass the dome light fade. The diodes are the 1N4001 ( 3 amp ) diodes and have the cathode band facing the door trigger switch. Your answer to question # 3 is :
- LOCK MOTOR|ORANGE / black | |back of fusebox *2
UNLOCK MOTOR|pink/black | |back of fusebox *2
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Hi Jeff. Would you mean that if I hook ground through 1.4 k ohm resistor to ORANGE / black (via relay) and ground through 326 ohm to pink/black (via relay).The doors would lock the same way the factory keyless do, like confirming by cancelling the 30 sec delay. If so, I would not need to diode wire the doors triggers.
Thanks
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JBT021