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Mini-Buss Bar Power Source

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: General Mobile Electronics Questions and Answers
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=68125
Printed Date: May 08, 2025 at 4:52 PM


Topic: Mini-Buss Bar Power Source

Posted By: dvvb
Subject: Mini-Buss Bar Power Source
Date Posted: December 11, 2005 at 10:39 AM

I'm making a 12 volt DC power source (buss bar) to be located in the engine compartment of my truck.  The buss bar (copper bar) will be installed inside of a waterproof junction box and connected to the truck's battery with 2/0 marine grade battery cable protected by a 300 amp circuit breaker.

I'm having problems with 2 parts of the design.  1) I can't find a waterproof, manual open/close, circuit breaker rated at 300 amps and  2) I want to drill and tap threaded holes into the 1/4" thick copper buss bar for connecting "add-on" smaller gauge wires (fused) that will deliver power to various things.  These smaller wires will be connected using a soldered wire terminal held in place by a "threaded bolt".  Now for my question .. what material can the bolt be made of ??  I would like to use stainless steel but don't know what effect will be caused by the two dissimilar matals, copper and S.S., working together.  Are brass bolts a better choice ??  Any feedback will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.     




Replies:

Posted By: menace2sobriety
Date Posted: December 12, 2005 at 1:37 AM
brass and copper are better conductors copper will tarnish faster.  why not buy a distribution block from a store

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Posted By: dvvb
Date Posted: December 12, 2005 at 8:25 PM

"Menace ........"

Your right ... but I did not explain the full scope of the project.  Without making this a long post ... I will have 14 each, 3"X3"X1/4" buss bar "pads" that will be connected together by 2/0 gauge wire (3/8" bolts thru 2/0 terminals).  Eack pad will have a 2/0 gauge wire input from the previous pad and a 2/0 gauge wire output to the next pad.  Each buss bar "pad" will have 10 drilled and tapped holes to connect individual 14 to 20 gauge wires to feed add-on circuits.  Each "pad" needs to handle up to 300 amps as a pass through current plus have enough surface area and thickness to mount two each 3/8 diameter bolts plus ten each #10 bolts spaced so my thick fingers can work on them over and over again.

Sooooo .... I'm back to what material for the bolts ????          Regards.





Posted By: menace2sobriety
Date Posted: December 14, 2005 at 1:28 AM

there will not be any "effects" on using two different types of metals,    i found a 200 amp breaker.  im sure i can find one for you here in "spocompton" if you need me to.



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Posted By: dvvb
Date Posted: December 14, 2005 at 8:45 AM

"Menace ........"

Thanks for the feedback on the bolts ... I think I will use stainless steel bolts.  Also, the more I think about protecting the total system the more I leaning towards a Class "T" type fuse instead of a circuit breaker.  I have found a Cooper Bussmann 180 series circuit breaker with on/off switch feature P/N  185150F which is a 150 amp breaker, the largest they make in that series.  Getting back to the fuse ... I will mount the fuse in a waterproof junction box next to the battery.  If you think of anything better please post.  Thanks for your time and effort.






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