2001 Chrysler Town & Country Remote Starter help n

You have two starter wires on this vehicle. I have included the wiring schematics for this van for your reference. Post questions when you have read this.

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |
|              12V|lt blue/red (10A) *1|+  |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|yellow              |+  |ignition harness            |
|   SECOND STARTER|PURPLE / brown *12    |-  |ignition harness            |
|         IGNITION|pink/white          |+  |ignition harness            |
|        ACCESSORY|*11                 |   |                            |
|       POWER LOCK|PURPLE / green *3     |-  |conn. 3, pin 21 @ BCM *2    |
|     POWER UNLOCK|same wire           |   |                            |
|       LOCK MOTOR|tan/white           |   |conn. 2, pin 10 @ BCM *2    |
|     UNLOCK MOTOR|tan/lt. green       |   |conn. 2, pin 28 @ BCM *2    |
|    DISARM DEFEAT|tan/brown           |   |conn. 2, pin 26 @ BCM *2    |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|DO NOT USE          |   |                            |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|WHITE/ brown *8      |   |headlight switch            |
|       HEADLIGHTS|same wire           |   |                            |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|*4                  |-  |BCM *2                      |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger    |   |                            |
|  TRUNK/HATCH PIN|PURPLE / orange *9    |-  |conn. 3, pin 29 @ BCM *2    |
|         HOOD PIN|PURPLE / lt. blue     |-  |conn. 3, pin 30 @ BCM *2    |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|*10                 |   |*10                         |
|  FCTRY ALARM ARM|PURPLE / lt. blue     |*5 |conn. 3, pin 14 @ BCM *2    |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|same wire           |   |                            |
|       TACHOMETER|*6                  |   |ignition coil pack          |
|      SPEED SENSE|blue/orange         |   |PCM *7                      |
|       BRAKE WIRE|WHITE/ tan           |+  |brake pedal switch          |
|     HORN TRIGGER|GREEN/ purple        |-  |steering column             |
|           WIPERS|brn/wht & brn/org   |+  |wiper motor                 |
|  LF WINDOW UP/DN|org/lt grn - org/wht|A  |drivers window switch       |
|  RF WINDOW UP/DN|org/tan - org/gry   |A  |drivers kick panel          |
|  LR WINDOW UP/DN|org/blu - org/lt blu|A  |drivers kick panel          |
|  RR WINDOW UP/DN|org/gry - org/grn   |A  |drivers kick panel          |
|        RADIO 12V|gray/red            |+  |radio                       |
|     RADIO GROUND|                    |   |                            |
|     RADIO SWITCH|blue/pink           |+  |radio                       |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|ORANGE / tan          |+  |radio                       |
|       LF SPEAKER|green - grn/brn     |   |radio                       |
|       RF SPEAKER|gray - gray/brn     |   |radio                       |
|       LR SPEAKER|grn/blu - grn/org   |   |radio                       |
|       RR SPEAKER|gry/blu - gry/org   |   |radio                       |

Notes:
NOTE: Chrysler vehicles that use a gray ignition key have an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed when remote starting.  *1 This wire is rated at 10 amps only. If installing any system with high current outputs, go to battery for 12v.  *2 The BCM is in the drivers kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.  *3 Lock is negative trigger thru a 5.3K ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 2.0K ohm resistor. MUST use relays.  *4 There are separate door triggers for each door, they are all in connector 3 at the BCM. The driver door trigger is purple in pin 6, the passenger door is PURPLE / white in pin 7, the left sliding door is PURPLE / gray in pin 8, and the right sliding door is purple / YELLOW in pin 5. Use all four and diode isolate each.  *5 Arm is negative trigger thru a 1.5K ohm resistor, this will also lock the doors. Disarm is negative trigger thru a 9.1K ohm resistor, if use double pulse this will also unlock the doors. MUST use relays.  *6 On the 2.4L use blue/green or blue/tan. On the 3.3L/3.8L use blue/green, blue/tan or blue/orange.   *7 The PCM is behind the driver side headlight. VSS is in the gray plug, pin 66.  *8 The parking lights are negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor. The headlights are negative trigger thru a 790 ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch.  *9 A diode must be placed inline on this wire to avoid problems with the dome lights and parking lights.  *10 Hatch release is PURPLE / tan in connector 2, pin 6 at the BCM. It is negative trigger thru a 1.69K ohm resistor. Left power sliding door is PURPLE / blue in connector 3, pin 1 at the BCM. It is negative trigger thru a 1.5K ohm resistor. Right power sliding door is the same wire as the left and it is negative trigger thru a 2.7K ohm resistor. Must use relays.  *11 Accessory is not required for remote start.  *12 The second starter wire is negative trigger thru a 180 ohm resistor. MUST use relay.

Jeff, I am gonna print this and review, but could you try to simplify a little for me? On my Omega RS-7K2 there are 2 12gauge red wires that I connected directly to the battery. The 12 gauge green wire is the starter output which I have connected to the starter without difficulty. The 12 gauge Blue wire is to be connected to the "primary ignition". Where and how would I connect that? The 12 gauge yellow is the Accessory Output that I am assuming I do not hook up (?).

After those I have some 22 gauge wires:

Black - ground

Yellow/black - brake wire (all set here) 

Dark Blue - Hood Input (again all set)

ORANGE / Black - Engine dectect input (have it attached to the battery, and am using the "smart sense feature)

White wire - parking light output  (all set)

Now there are several other wires, some of which I can get through after I get the starter working so I won't waste your time. But do I need any of these?:

light blue : (-) OEM Disarm Output (??? use? How?)

There is aloso a red, 3 pin, port that the manual states to use with 2 relays but the diagram shows 12 volts + coming from the relays to the additional starter circuits.

Again, I appreciate what you have given me. it will be enormously helpful, and I hate to ask for more, but I could certainly use it.

Jeff

This is one of the more difficult installations to do as far as remote starter's are concerned especially if this is your first one. You have two starter wires that you need to power up ( one beinf a negative pulsed activation through a resistor on pin 30 ).

• light blue : (-) OEM Disarm Output (??? use? How?)Disarm is negative trigger thru a 9.1K ohm resistor. Wire in series of this wire to the PURPLE / LIGHT BLUE wire.
• Primary Ignition wire is PINK/WHITE at the ignition harness
• Acccessory wire is not used on the Omega. Tape off and do not use.
• The 3 pin red wire has to be reversed in polarity to accomdate the (-) trigger through a 180 ohm resistor.

I'll just add that make sure your sending a negative to the 2nd starter and if you have a grey key you need a bypass. These chrysler just suck sometims and sometimes they can be heaven. If your intrested in doing locks and opening doors, bypasskits.com sells a unti wich plugs into the cars computer and does all that for you without the use of resitors.

OK, this should be the last question (I hope). I am really not that ignorant...it just seems like I am hitting a brain block.

1. The light blue wire (OEM  Disarm Output) will be wired in series to the PURPLE / light blue wire at the BCM at the 3rd connector at pin 14. Correct? How do I count the PIN locations? Are they marked?

2. Pink/white wire at the ignition is connected to the blue wire on the Omega.

3. Tape off yellow accessory wire.

4. Now what I need help on...On the red 3 pin port it shows 2 relays (do I use only 1??). The blue and green wires go to the 85 location on the relays and the red goes to the 86. From the diagram it appears that these energize the relay. The 87 connector shows constant 12 volts fused. The 30 shows going to the additional starter circuit.

So my questions on 4:

a. Do I need only one relay to attach to the PURPLE / brown wire at the ignition harness? If I use 2 then where does the second one attach?

b. Do I wire 85 & 86 to the red 3 pin port as described but instead of 12 volt fused going to 87 I attach to a ground? This therefore supplies the (-) to 30  on the relay (and therefore the second starter circuit) through the 180 ohm resister? Correct?

Alright...last question.

5. 22 gauge white wire fused. How/where do I hook this up to the parking lights? Use a relay as descibed abouve through a resistor?

Thanks again guys! You are the absolute best!

Trying to do this for my mother-in-law. She just lost her husband (59 years old) to brain cancer and this will be something that will make her life a little easier hear in the Northeast.

Jeff P

1. The light blue wire (OEM  Disarm Output) will be wired in series to the PURPLE / light blue wire at the BCM at the 3rd connector at pin 14. Correct? How do I count the PIN locations? Are they marked?

• Just look for the wire color & then do the count to verify. If there are no other PURPLE / LIGHT BLUE wires in the plug.... you don't have to count the pin number

2. Pink/white wire at the ignition is connected to the blue wire on the Omega.

• If the BLUE wire is the IGNITION # 1 wire for the Oemga system then connect this wire to the PINK/WHITE wire on the van. Sorry, I don't have the Omega wiring color codes for this unit to verify your colors.

3. Tape off yellow accessory wire.

• Yes

4. Now what I need help on...On the red 3 pin port it shows 2 relays (do I use only 1??). The blue and green wires go to the 85 location on the relays and the red goes to the 86. From the diagram it appears that these energize the relay. The 87 connector shows constant 12 volts fused. The 30 shows going to the additional starter circuit.

So my questions on 4:

a. Do I need only one relay to attach to the PURPLE / brown wire at the ignition harness? If I use 2 then where does the second one attach?

b. Do I wire 85 & 86 to the red 3 pin port as described but instead of 12 volt fused going to 87 I attach to a ground? This therefore supplies the (-) to 30  on the relay (and therefore the second starter circuit) through the 180 ohm resister? Correct?

• Go to this link: Positive to Negative Relay Diagram and take the 12 volt input wire of the Omega's STARTER wire as your input and place a 180 ohm resistor inline of pin 30 to the PURPLE / BROWN wire on the ignition harness. Pin 87 has to be a ground signal.

Alright...last question.

5. 22 gauge white wire fused. How/where do I hook this up to the parking lights? Use a relay as descibed abouve through a resistor?

• Yes, you need a relay to convert the (+) to a (-) signal through a resistor. Use this link to help : Positive to Negative Relay Diagram and place the resistor on pin 30 wire going to the WHITE/ BROWN wire on the van.

I have to go to the well one more time guys.....

Everything is working great....except that it only runs for about 2 seconds before shutting down. The lights come on, it turns over, it starts, then it dies. What am I missing??????

HELP!

I do have a gray key.

I bypassed the alarm at the BCN with a 9.1K resistor (actually it is a 9.3K, the guy at the local shop said it would be ok..???)

I tried located a wire behind the tach that shows a change in voltage when the speed is changed but there was no such wire.

Also, now it seems like it won't get out of valet mode. I press the start button and it flashes 4 times and does nothing. When I try to program it won't take a command from the valet (switching on/off 5 times). Valet switch is fine.

I even tried a new unit but it was the same...

HELP!

Cars with a GREY KEY have an immobilizer use dei part number 555u you will require a valet key. The tach wire can be obtained at ignition coil blue \ ta , blue \ green or blue \ orange use ethier one. GOOD LUCK. test all wires.

Well...I finally got it done.

Blue wire to the disarm wire at the BCM through a 9.1k resistor.

ORANGE / black wire off of the smart sense and onto a tach lead on the coil.

Blue ignition feed from the Omega to the primary ignition.

Secondary ignition fed a (-) through a relay and a 180 ohm resistor.

Green to the starter

Lights through a 2.1k resistor and (-) relay.

IT WORKS!!!!

Jeff from Velocity Motorsports..my Mother-in-law thanks you, I thank you, and if you are ever in Western Massachusetts, the beer is on me!

OK...HOLD THE BEER!

I got probelms. I got it all back together and it wa working great, until I noticed it only runs when the key is in the ignition. If I take the key out it runs for 2 seconds and stops. Put the key in, and it starts up and stays running. The key just has to be in, not on. Do I need a bypass kit like previously mentioned? Or should that light blue (OEM (-) bypass) wire be doing the trick? I have it run through a 9.3K resistor to the BCM, 3 conn, 14 pin.