2002 durango remote/alarm problem
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Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: General Mobile Electronics Questions and Answers
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=95838
Printed Date: July 16, 2025 at 9:42 PM
Topic: 2002 durango remote/alarm problem
Posted By: bu88a
Subject: 2002 durango remote/alarm problem
Date Posted: July 23, 2007 at 1:00 PM
This past weekend I had a buddy of mine help me out with the install of a Python 1500ESP remote starter/alarm system. I noticed a couple glitches on the way home:
1. The remote starter works great except the blower motor kicks on but the A/C (and the radio) doesn't. I double checked the connections and all seems good according to the diagrams I've seen. When I had the system professionally installed on my 2001 Ram, the radio kicked on as well. What am I missing?
2. The alarm doesn't register the driver's door being open (All other doors work fine). The alarm won't trip if I open the drivers door and I also can't get into the programming feature of the unit unless the door is open. Again, all wires seem to be connected correctly (tan and tan/red). Do I need to isolate them with diodes?
3. The doors don't lock/unlock with the alarm arm/disarm. I have the proper resistors in line and have them hooked up to relays. The relays are switching, but nothing is happening. I had them hooked up without relays at first, and the doors WOULD lock with the arm, but wouldn't unlock with disarm.
Again, these are minor inconveniences, but I'd like to get them taken care of.
Thanks in advance!
Replies:
Posted By: s_p_n_k_r_07
Date Posted: July 24, 2007 at 3:47 AM
----1: Your radio and A/C are more than likely powered by the second accessory which on your viehicle is green (+) at the ignition harness, and since your already using the second ignition wire from the DEI relay pack (or should be) you'll have to use a relay to energize this wire as an accessory during remote start. 85 to the (-)acc relay trigger (orange in the small 4 pin plug at the relay pack) 86 and 87 to constant fused 12v source (like one of the constant wires at the ignition or if you ran your own power wire in from the battery), 30 will be your output to the green wire. ----2: You have to diode isolate the two wires to "hide" them from each other. Your experienceing a back feed from the closed doors that is not allowing a great enough difference in voltage to trigger the alarm. The diodes will be connected to the input of the alarm with the stripe side "facing" away or twards the two door trigger wires. ----3: I havent had any trouble with the locks on these but I use the factory alarm arm/disarm wire for locks because not only does it control the factory alarm it also triggers the locks, the only difference is you have to program the unlock to a double pulse and it works great. That wire is lt. GREEN/ orange (-) conn. 2, pin 14 @ CTM in the drivers kick. Arm is negative trigger thru a 644 ohm resistor. Disarm is negative trigger thru a 1565 ohm resistor. [I copied from directechs if you couldn't tell ;)] also make sure your grounding the relay inputs to a good location I had an issue with that in a town and country. From what you posted it seems that this may help but there are a few things that could cause your issues so take a stab at this stuff and post your results, there is a ton of talent on this site I know we can figure it out.
Posted By: bu88a
Date Posted: July 24, 2007 at 11:44 AM
Hey s_p_n_k_r_07,
Situation 1) The Green wire is connected to the kit already (what confuses me a bit is, according to BulldogSecurity.com, it says "Green wire, Use both"... and there's only one Green wire that I can see. Also, the GREEN/ Red (18ga) and the Blue are connected.
Situation 2) I'll have to pick up some diodes on the way home. Any recommended value/type?
Situation 3) I have the 2 relays hooked up as follows: Ground, 12+ Constant, trigger wire from the brain, output to WHITE/ green with 330ohm and 820ohm (Mine doesn't have factory security) resistors between the relay and WHITE/ green (coming from the12volt's, Bulldog Security's AND Commando Security's websites). I hear and feel the relays double clicking (double pulse?)when the arm/disarm buttons are pressed, but nothing is happening.
Everything is grounded to the same location and is solid.
Posted By: bu88a
Date Posted: July 25, 2007 at 12:02 PM
Ok... Situation 2 was taken care of. One of the two times my buddy used the crimp on (insulation piercing) connectors, he missed the Driver's side door trigger switch. Soldered everything together and everything is kosher.
situation 3 still exists with the diodes in place. Looking back, I think I failed when hooking up the relays. I used a pair of relays from a couple sets of foglights (with relay plug harness... to make things easier)and realized that I have it hooked up wrong. Unfortunately the relays aren't marked with the terminal numbers. I need to know how to hook them up so that the relay is completing the ground circuit (I accidentally hooked it up so it's feeding voltage instead of grounding).
And I still can't figure out situation 1.
Posted By: bu88a
Date Posted: August 01, 2007 at 1:11 PM
Well, everything has been taken care of.
i had used the wrong relays for the doorlocks (plus, the resistor value wasn't what it was supposed to be, was reading way low. Got the right value now)
Also, there's a BLACK/ orange wire at the ignition switch that according to Bulldog Security is for the "rear blower", which my vehicle doesn't have, so it was never connected. I put in another relay to switch that wire as well, and voila! I have AC!!
Only one more minor thing... my rear hatch doesn't set off the alarm if opened. Any idea which wire I should tap into for the door switch sensor for that one?
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: August 01, 2007 at 1:52 PM
Here's where the wire is to connect the trunk trigger.
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