2004 Ford Ranger, Cruise Wiring?

I'm installing the Audiovx ccs-100 on a 2004 Ford Ranger, 2.3 liter, 4cyl, with 5-speed manual tranmission. Using the on-line VSS/Tach information source, and one of the famous generic repair manuals for the Ranger, I thought I had it scoped out. However, that info was apparently wrong in some details and I wonder if anyone has the right info:
1) Though the VSS wire seems correct (gray/blk at the PCM pin-68), I found pin-78 unoccupied on the PCM plug, and no pink/white wire anywhere in the PCM bundle, contrary to guidance on the on-line info source for the Tach wire. I need advice on dealing with the missing tach signal. Incidentally, there is a working tachometer in the instrument cluster, so there must be a signal somewhere.
2) The generic manual indicates dash/body wiring color codes that seem to be incorrect for my 2004. The manual indicated that +12V, with ignition in run/acc, could be found at the main light switch, color coded YEL/BLK. It also led me to expect that the parking light wire there would be Brown. However, the switch has no yellow/black, nor any brown- 2004 may have some relaying that the old "typical" did not. Can somebody give correct 2004 color codes and/or a better place to grab the +12V-run and parking light power? I can see the radio harness, but it is hard to reach, and I don't have color codes for it anyway.

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Best Regards,
Bruce2

Are you going to put a Clutch Switch on?

Try:

Tach Signal

TAN / YELLOW

AT INSTRUMENT CLUSTER*

* Pin 15 Of 16 Pin White Connector

Also:

Check PIN 48 At PCM (Powertrain Control Module): on the passenger side firewall, under the hood.

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Thanks! There is indeed a tan / YELLOW at pin-48! By the way, looking at the on-line info source, I see that for the 2001 Ranger, they show the tach wire at pin 48, tan / YELLOW. For later years, including 2004, they show pin 78, pink/white. Curious.

About the clutch switch, the CCS-100 installation manual does not mention that option. It says the tach signal is used to detect clutch dis-engagement. So, I was planning to go with the installation manual on that point. I suppose a spdt switch on the clutch could be wired into the brake signal input to the servo unit, but that would require some switch hardware that I don't have handy.

Any ideas about my +12V-run and parking light question? You seem to have a good source.

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Best Regards,
Bruce2

Ignition 12 volts

GREEN/ VIOLET

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

If there is NO BROWN wire at Light Switch
You can catch the BROWN Parking Lite wire at: PIN 8 @ SJB
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is the fuse/relay box in the passenger kick panel.

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Thanks again! That GREEN/ violet wire is a heavy guage wire. No scotch-lock connector is going to work there! Maybe solder (?).

A few more questions, for curiosity's sake:
What's the difference between "Ignition 12 volts" and "Accessory 1" and "Accessory 2". The latter two are gray / YELLOW and BLACK/ light-green respectively, and they are also at the ignition switch. They are of heavy guage, similar to "Ignition 12." My original thought, based on the old generic wiring diagrams in the famous old manual, was that I should connect cruise control power to the same accessory circuit as the radio. That's where cruise was connected in those diagrams for older Rangers. What do you think?



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Best Regards,
Bruce2

If you are using Scotch Loks......They do have them for 10 guage wire on Up
Radio would probably work.........
ROSTRA used to have instructions that read not to hook to Accessories like Wiper, Heater, etc. because of Voltage Draw or could cause Intermittent Cruise Operation.........
Depending on Vehicle I usually use Ignition or Fuse marked Cruise


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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

With the electricals worked out, courtesy of mo12v, I thought I was close to wrapping up this project- just had a little vacuum tubing to to install... Then I got surprised again. Getting ready to install a T for my servo vacuum connection, I disconnected what I thought was a readily accessible vacuum line, at the top rear of the plastic air intake plenum, just an inch or so behind the brake booster vacuum connection, at the back of the engine, near the firewall. It was one of three hoses connected to a metal tap at that location on the plenum/manifold, two being 5/16" and one being maybe 1/2". It looked to me like a typical vacuum manifold. To my surprise, when I opened one of the two smaller hoses, it dribbled water and even gurgled a bit! Maybe that was just condensate, or maybe I need a little more education. Consulting the old famous generic Ranger repair manual, I found it vague on engine details, but it made reference to a coolant hose connection on the "intake" manifold. So, I stopped right there and came back here to consult the cruise control oracle again. I don't think I want liquid in my cruise servo.

Is there a tried and true vacuum source for the 2004, 2.3L, 4-cyclinder, for this purpose? Was that liquid just condensate, or could there really be coolant circulating through that plastic intake plenum/manifold (or does the liquid indicate some other abnormal condition that needs fixing first)? By the way, I also planned to install a vacuum reservoir, per guidance from the the cruise manufacturer concerning small engines. The cannister is already in place and ready to hook-up, somewhere...

As always, sage advice would be much appreciated.

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Best Regards,
Bruce2

Not sure where you pulled the line loose.............
I would start the Engine & put a Vacuum Guage on the Line you think.  You also will need that Vacuum Cannister.   
I don't think Ford is using water cooled manifolds on that vehicle BUT....I have been known to be WRONG.........
Also, I know it's a little late, but I refuse to put Vacuum Cruise Controls on any more........We use ONLY the ROSTRA ( who also makes Audiovox ) Electronic Cruise Controls

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Starting the engine right now is a little problematic, due to what I had to disassemble to get access to some wire bundles, BUT I will get it back into running condition before I determine where to tap a vacuum line.

Incidentally, I knew of Rostra's vacuum-less electric controls, but couldn't locate a retailer for them. I was also unaware of any qualified dealer-installers in my area. Sooo..., I embarked on my present course of action. All electric made sense to me, otherwise.

About the liquid in the vacuum line, I opened another line connected to the same point on the intake plenum (at the very top of the plastic plenum, at the end of the plenum opposite from the throttle; i.e., at the rear of the engine) and it was dry as a bone, as I thought a vacuum line should be. The one I opened originally, 0.25" away, and found moisture in, is T'ed into a ~1" coolant line going to the water pump, way down low on the engine. I wonder if that T is actually a vacuum operated coolant valve of some sort or, possibly, if vacuum is being used to suck air out of the coolant line to deal with coolant slugging under some circumstance. I can't see any plumbing that would be associated with intentional coolant circulation through the intake/plenum manifold. Or maybe I am completely off base...wish I had the shop manual. Anyhow, running the engine with a vacuum guage on the line is good advice.

Once I get this working, I will report back here, for the record. This has been a little more educational than I expected. Maybe other amateurs will find it entertaining.

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Best Regards,
Bruce2

This turned out to be a two-week-end project, due to all of the questions about where to hook-up what. But, it's done today. Key points about the 2.3 liter 4cyclinder Ranger installation:
1) There apparently IS an engine coolant connection to the intake manaifold assembly, at least on some versions (mine). According to the famous generic repair manual, the coolant goes through the EGR valve. That valve appears to be an integral part of the plastic intake manifold. It faked me out initially because it looked very much like the vacuum connection tree on my old 1989 Ranger. In reality, on the 2004, the manifold vacuum connection is a 3/8" plastic tubing connection IMMEDIATELY adjacent to the EGR valve, facing the firewall, at the passenger-side rear corner of the intake manifold. On mine, there was only one connection, apparently for cabin A/C-heater controls, and that's where I added a piece of tubing and a T for the cruise vacuum reservoir connection.
2) I ultimately chose to operate in TACH only mode, as one can do on a manual transmission, since by doing so I could avoid breaking into the ECM bundle. I thought perhaps that would be wise, given that the truck is still under warranty, and I don't want to give Ford any excuse to deny coverage. I was able to get a TACH signal off the coil, which was less invasive, I judged. I did route the VSS wire right up to the connection point on the ECM connector, so making the connection will be easy, in case I change my mind.
3) I'm using the 4000ppm setting, per the manual. I have not yet checked the full speed range for ability to lock in, but 40 to 60 mph works fine. I'll find an opportunity to try 65-70 sometime later this week. I note there's a 5000ppm setting available, but I won't try it unless I find I cant lock-in at 70mph
4) The RESUME function seems a little flakey. I wonder if that relates to TACH-only mode. Not a big deal to me, but curious.
5) Some internet advice and the famous generic repair manual suggest that the parking light voltage can be tapped at the WHITE/ black wire at the light switch. However, that is apparently not correct. I found the control switch backlight did illuminate, but that small current apparently latches a relay that keeps the Parking lights on, even when the light switch is off- definitely not good. The Brown wire at the fuse box, the one that almost certainly would work correctly, is hard to get to. Anyway, the backlighting was too intense for my taste, so I just clipped that gray wire for the moment. If I need some backlighting, I will try connecting it to the Ignition +12 wire, but with some additional series resistance to dim it down.

That's it- generally successful, though a bit of a challenge for someone unfamiliar with such things. This forum, and mo12v, made it possible for me. Thanks very much.


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Best Regards,
Bruce2

One more thing- I used velcro to mount the control switches in an ergonomically suitable location. The manual says to find a flat surface, with visibility, etc., and mount the switch there. On a 2004 Ranger dash, there is no such place; i.e., no place that is flat and visible and accessible. The velcro enables mounting on a no-so-flat surface, and also enables you to move it around a bit after you have first positioned it. Also, I avoided drilling the dash by folding the wires and routing them through the velcro to the little space between the dash and the steering shaft housing. The switches are clearly visible, easily reachable, repositionable to some extent, without drilling and despite the curvy surface.

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Best Regards,
Bruce2

A final post on this project:

I have now had a chance to drive the truck at freeway speed, up and down some decent hills, and it seems to work just fine. It holds +/- about 1 mph on what I would consider normal hill country terain, in 5th gear. Resume also works fine. I don't know what my initial problem was with resume- maybe just trying to use it in too much traffic, switching it on and off too fast, at too low a speed, with too little familiarity with proper use of the thing. Anyhow, if it keeps working as it did this week, I'll be one happy customer.

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Best Regards,
Bruce2