Removing kickpods

hello,

i just did my first fiberglass install ever, i haven't even touched the thing before today, all went great, i did one left pod with a mat as base, and reinforced the middle of the fiberglass mess (where it'll be cut) with about three layers of fiber sheets or whatever you call them and plan to finish it up with a mat again.

her'es the thing, i can't seem to be able to remove the fiberglass, either of the masking tape, or the carpet. the outer edges flex and i'm afraid to crack it and cry. should the hole thing come of with the tape or should i try to seperate them?

i was shocked what the masking tape was! i thought it would be like duct tape, not made of paperlike materials.

please help.

it's taking me about 1.5 days for each side, is that too fast or what? i heard that a thing like this takes about a week, and my installer said he needed a week too and about 400 for the install excluding materials :o):

i'm going to use some filler and them cover it up with carpet, but i have the problem of mounting them, should i use screws or what? i don't think i'll be able to fit a screwdrive inside the enclosure, and i have to drill from the outside around the kicks where i leave a little end to screw it, and fill it with liquid nails from the inside.

i have a set of focal 165k2 and was wondering what size of kicks would they need? it says sealed, but doens' tmention size. are speakers affected by volume as much as subwoofers lets say?

thank you all. and excuse my english.

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Ibrahim Awad.
Houston, TX

Opps !! Did you not use a mold release agent prior to fiberglassing ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

you can just go through and yank it out. depending on the thickness of the mat you used you will probably be ok just pulling it out. I try to use a thicker mat. usually its a 3 oz mat.it just buils up quicker. if it is a shapr that has a ton of wierd angles you can use a thinner mat like a 1 oz or 1/2 oz and it will form to the contours better. the worst thing that will happen is it might crack if its not thick enough. the speed of the install depends on the knowledge of the installer. with a crapeted kick. it should be able to be built in a day or less. the price the installer you are talking to is about average depending on the area. next time you need to use a mold release agent. a lot of things work well in a pinch. things like PAM cooking spray, petrolium jelly, or a car wax such as turtle wax. they do sell an actual mold release wax. it comes in a container just like car wax. the other option is, if you simply cannot find anything to use (or just simply forget to use a release agent, ypou can pull it out of the car when it is warm from curing. this isnt recommended on larger projects, but for a kick it will be ok. as for the mounting on the kick, just shoot a couple screws with washers into the floor with a screw gun.

thanks so much guys!!!

i read about the car wax thing somewhere, but being that i have NEVER even seen how fiberglass was made, and this was my first time laying it, it was poretty good.

i thought putting things like wax and such would impare the ability of the fiberglass to adhere to vertical surfaces.

i bought my supplies from lowes, i know they're not the cheapest, but for the size of my project, it's ok. but here's the thing, the hardener supplied (bondo brand resin kit) is not enough for even one quarter of the tank of resin, so can you please tell me where to get some? online is not an option due to time constrictions.

i asked about the price because even tutorial states that it's very hard to do, and everyone's charging an arm and leg for something that looks hard but really isn't, it's like making lasagnia or something.

it's pretty thick inside the area that is going to be cut. about 3mm-5mm maybe? i don't know how much that is in inches.

i'm soooo hyped about this project that if everything goes well, i'll be making a car kit pod for my phone like  the ones that come sticking next to the console on european benzes, a rear deck to vent the subwoofers, cuz my trunk is air tight, and i think it needs alignment, the lock scratches when opening/closing after a year of using my subs.

this forum is a blessing!!!!!

thank you guys!!!!

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Ibrahim Awad.
Houston, TX

I agree, just yank the prokject out and do any repairs after the fact.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

i'm in trouble guys, i just did the left kick about two hours ago, and it's still not dry, all parts have some blueish hue to it except where the fiberglass has rested. this side was a pain from the getgo. the glass was very liquidish while applying and it sung to the ground, making a puddle. i used automotive wax this time, meguiars, could this be the cause of the blueish hue? i have tan interior, i just hope this isn't from the fiberglass being soaked by the carpet. i overslept  and woke up two hours after the install to find this.

it's sticky too.

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Ibrahim Awad.
Houston, TX

Did you not mask the area around the kick panel incase this would happen ? I always mask the entire area + add plastic to the areas that I am transferring the resin from the container to the project so that if there is dripping then it will go onto the plastic and not the carpet.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA