HI! (First post on this forum - What a great website!)
OK - I 've got a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage Coupe. I'm redoing the interior and I have recently added "dynamat extreme" style material (foil backed super sticky vibration/sound insulator) to the back deck sheet metal (between the back of the rear seat and glass. I'm going to be putting in 6x9s into a mdf/fg custom "molded" enclosure. So far I've cut out the basic piece that everything else will be mounted to, out of 1/4" MDF using the oem piece as a template and test fit it (so far so good)... here's my two questions:
1. Should I put foam padding (something really thin) under the MDF board - or would the dynamat extreme be enough (see it always remains "squishy" and I'm afraid that bolting the assembled rear deck down could cause the material to flatten out over time) - Or am I just being overly-anal?
2. Should I cut ports into the base of the deck board (allowing the sound to travel into the trunk) or should I leave everything sealed up ?
*Note- Since weight is an issue for me (I'm concerned about stuff like MPG and HP) I don't want to weigh the car down with a big heavy sub-box so I'm planning on using a self powered Bazooka tube for the very-lows. But I still want some tight-punchy-bass so I started thinking that if I leave the 6x9s in a sealed enclosure it may produce a "tighter" fast responding bass (the 6x9s are Sony Xplod 3 way coaxials with an incorporated mid and tweeter in the middle) I've already got a set of Xplod 6.5" round midwoofer in the doors with passive crossover and flush mount tweeter. I plan on adding one 4channel amp and cap.
Thanks in advance for any help! I need some opinions ! :)
im a newbie to the site but have been in the game awhile. the pad between the wood and metal sounds like a winner, but i hope if you are determined to build enclosures for the 6x9s, you have contacted sony and got the specs that they need for things like airspace, port size and length, ect. and imo, you would do much better for yourself to get a good 10in sub and build a fiberglass enclosure instead of the bazooka. just a suggestion.
-------------
josh
For vibrations in a car, I hate the "extreme" type material. It's got a hard aluminum surface that never get's rid of panel-to-panel rattling. I see people dump this material in thier car all the time for all the wrong reasons.
I use a Stinger product called "Overkill." It has a soft foam pad, like memory foam, and is about a 1/4" thick. To get rid of panel-to-panel rattling, NOTHING is better.
Stinger - yeah I've seen a few of their products. That sounds like something I'd like to check out. Thanks for the input!
As for the 10"sub of bazooka... I want to have something that can be easily removed and disconnected for AutoXing and the bazooka is cheaper and faster to install. Mount a strap to the trunk board and put in a molex connector and I'm done. Going with a DIY box... MDF, amp, speaker, wire, carpet, still need a strap and molex to make it removable, cheaper and easier to just go with a bazooka. My dad had a self powered unit in his van and it sounded great paired with a set of Boston EQ coaxials.
-------------
I drive a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage LS Coupe. I love it and I've got a knack for the 12volt stuff.