fiberglass enclosure body filler with res

Alright, I was wondering if I should mix body filler with fiberglass resin, or just use only body filler for the sub enclosure? I've finish sanding down the fiberglass just wondering if adding the resin adds more strength to the box. I'm putting 2 s15l7s so I need it to be strong as possible.

i've never done it, but i don't believe it will make it any stronger, it just thins out the body filler so less sanding is needed i believe. but don't quote me on this.

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Dustin Rockney

Rockstar Autosports

Basically this is what is called a "milk shake" where you mix resin & filler together until they get to the consistency of a milk shake. Then add the appropriate amounts of hardener for each. In my experiences it seems that this provides a material that can be brushed on and provides more strength than filler alone does AND seems to stick to the box better (less likelihood of flaking off during the sanding process). And since it goes on in a semi-liquid state, it seeps into cracks well and provides a nice smooth(er) finish. I often use the milkshake method on the inside seems of the box as well to fill any gaps that may exist between the form and the baffle board.

Now, I'm not advocating using filler to provide any sort of strength, but rather to enhance existing structurally sound enclosures/panels/etc.

dont use body filler to make thing stronger. why oh why does everybody do this these days? a properly built fiberglass enclosure will only need very little body filler at all if any on it. a little here and a little there to correct some curves or such (and not for any type of strength at all) and thats it! if you need to make your enclosure stronger.....USE MORE MATTING AND RESIN! sheesh.....

ckeeler wrote:

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dont use body filler to make thing stronger. why oh why does everybody do this these days? a properly built fiberglass enclosure will only need very little body filler at all if any on it. a little here and a little there to correct some curves or such (and not for any type of strength at all) and thats it! if you need to make your enclosure stronger.....USE MORE MATTING AND RESIN! sheesh.....

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I'm not sure if that was directed at me, but just in case...

Isn't that kind of what I said, especially with the disclaimer line at the bottom?

tjamz] wrote:

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Now, I'm not advocating using filler to provide any sort of strength, but rather to enhance existing structurally sound enclosures/panels/etc.

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It doesn't change the fact that a milkshake concoction is structurally stronger than just body filler alone...and goes on smoother, etc, etc, etc...

thats to the OP. as for the "milkshake method", its not needed either if you just take some time to do things a little different in the begining, and you can have a much nicer product in much less time, with WAY LESS sanding too, but what ever,  to each his own. what do I know anyway? I've only been doing this stuff since the dark ages, lol.

ckeeler wrote:

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thats to the OP. as for the "milkshake method", its not needed either if you just take some time to do things a little different in the begining, and you can have a much nicer product in much less time, with WAY LESS sanding too, but what ever,  to each his own. what do I know anyway? I've only been doing this stuff since the dark ages, lol.

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Oh, I hear ya and I'm certainly not disagreeing. My response was to the OP as well as it seemed like he had to do some filling anyway based on his post.

As for the dark ages, I feel you. I've been installing professionally for about 16.5 years and was a DIY installer since about '88. Now, I know I'm not the oldest/most experienced guy on here, but it's fair to say that I've been installing longer than a lot of my customers have been alive.

this is what is called a "milk shake" where you mix resin & filler together until they get to the consistency of a milk shake. Then add the appropriate amounts of hardener for each. In my experiences it seems that this provides a material that can be brushed on and provides more strength than filler alone does AND seems to stick to the box better (less likelihood of flaking off during the sanding process).

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