audiophile sound from custom door pods?

stuff:
-95 integra
-jl audio C5-650 component speakers

desire:
custom door pods built into/out of factory door panels.



I've seen a lot of door pods here, and I'm wondering how to get the most bass from 100hz-500hz out of the mids. I see mostly open backs into door or just poorly sealed pods. My thinking is a sealed pod would give me more punch/loud mid bass sound from the woofers.
So i guess the real question is, is the woofer firing into the door cavity better or worse then a sealed door pod at correct sq/ft dimension?

I was thinking:
-I could cover over/seal the door "cubby hole"/pocket and remove it.
-Remove the panel skin from the lower door panel along the cosmetic lines just above the door pocket.
-Do the speaker ring and fiberglass work directly to the stock door panel without it's skin.
-Cut away whats left of the factory speaker enclosure (which would be accessible when door is turned on its finished face)
-Then fiberglass or otherwise make a sealed back for this lower cosmetic section that would encase and seal the woofer from directly playing into the door cavity.

good idea? or should i just let it bang into the rattly window tracks? lol

i would just like to note that this is a project that will continue to it's completion with pictures that i will post here as i progress. ya, this is my first fiberglass run.
from my reading i understand that fiberglass mat n resin will pretty much stick to anything.

quick questions to the pro's:
1.i guess i need a little reassurance that the fiberglass will indeed bond with the stock "skinless" door panel? it seems to be a type of yellowish white plastic and feels very sturdy. I assume i can get away with some 60 grit on it and use a regular paper stapler to staple through the plastic n thin fleece for my form.

2.It would be nice if I could just use the stock mounting nuts to reattach the door panel itself. But the only drawback i can see with that is the weight of the speaker will be on that door panel instead of the doorframe itself. You think i'll run into problems doing this?

i'm curious
Have you read this?

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icearrow6 wrote:

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i'm curious
Have you read this?

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yes. and then i just read it again to make super sure i didnt miss something.
I dont believe my question is fully answered. i'm still not sure if the infinite baffle door mount(including the window track rattles which i cant kill) will resonate mid bass better then a sealed pod. reguardless of all computer measurements, subjective, objective or psychological listening, 1 of these 2 makes better mid bass resonance, which is it?
I understand about rta's, but my system hasnt yet progressed to that point as I desperately need a HU. And I have enough volume in the unused area of my door panels to create the .5 cu/ft the speaker needs to resonate correctly (i think lol)

and then i have the practical problem of, when it rains, it pours.. literally onto my speakers in the door. so.. they really need moved. Anyway i shake a stick at it, theyre going in some pods, I just need to know if i should leave the hole going into the door or seal it.

likely, no one will have an exact answer for me, so I'll just experiment. It's fiberglass right?, not like i can't patch a hole.

Bloob, your reading my mind. I am considering the exact same thing. Ive been trying to research a sealed woofer pod for mid bass in a door panel instead of infinate baffle. As im a first time "glasser" ive been looking at any and all glass threads i can. Please, Please, Please post pics and updates.

Hey me three! Ive been looking for a better pair of midbass spaekers that I would use to create a three way system up front and that eans I need to fiberglass my doors. I found this if you want to achieve awsome mid bass. he says car doors make great mid bass enclosures because of their size. Also if you were wondering about an alternative method this guy had very good results and I am thinking about using this technique for my mid bass and mid range.

I'n my opinion you should create a contolled infinite baffle using an aperidic dampening method

by doing this you will retain the initial "sealdness"  punch but have ability and control into the lower spectrum of transients without totally breaking up from having the open cavity of the door itself