Large scale fiberglass project
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=25598
Printed Date: May 28, 2024 at 1:39 PM
Topic: Large scale fiberglass project
Posted By: gogeeta13
Subject: Large scale fiberglass project
Date Posted: January 30, 2004 at 10:58 PM
what kind of difficulty would I be looking at to make a fiberglass rear hatch on a 240sx. How would i make a mold that big, and basically, what would I do to do something on such a large scale. Also, how hard would it be to do a hood in fiberglass?
Replies:
Posted By: Teamrf
Date Posted: January 31, 2004 at 2:24 AM
Making the mold is the hardest part of fiberglassing. Once you have the mold is cake from there until you get to the sanding part..
-------------
~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.
Posted By: beyondamfm
Date Posted: January 31, 2004 at 8:08 AM
What are you planning on putting back there? If subs build your frame to spec and then fiberglass over it.  ------------- The Clear Bra Guy
KCs premiere paint protection guru
Posted By: gogeeta13
Date Posted: January 31, 2004 at 2:39 PM
The mold is what I am asking about i guess, I have no idea how to make something that large. The rear hatch is for a project that will be revealed if I actually get it going. the hood is for some weight reduction off the car.
Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: January 31, 2004 at 4:48 PM
Are you asking about the hatch itself, or the area inside? Basically you need to mask off the surrounding areas (you can use masking tape and trash bags), and apply some type of mold release (car wax, aluminum foil, etc.). Cut plenty of strips of fiberglass mat, and have at it. If you're doing the inside of the hatch area (spare tire area, etc.), you'll want to place some sort of border in the middle (strips of wood) so you can make the mold in multiple pieces. This is so you can remove it if necessary. I wouldn't attempt a hood unless I felt 100% confident in my abilities first. Trust me, my first attempt at fiberglass (and bodywork) was front fenders and a header panel for my car. The header panel I had to make from scratch, since mine was missing. I was doing a headlight conversion, and needed to make room for the lights, and try to blend it all together. Almost six months later, I'm not done, but it's looking much better. Getting the shape of a hood is not going to be the problem. The problem will be with getting the mouting points and latching components correct, all the while making it plenty strong, yet lightweight- all at the same time. ------------- My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
Posted By: usafsurfer
Date Posted: February 01, 2004 at 12:12 AM
there was a special on speed channel this morning (sat) i think was hot rod tv or or somthin like that but should come back on sun morning the made a fiberglass hood and showed the steps on it looked time consuming
Posted By: gogeeta13
Date Posted: February 01, 2004 at 1:00 AM
Yeah, I am talking the actual hatch. I was thinking about using aluminum(very thin, from aircraft supply place) for the hood, with a fiberglass under skeloton for sturdy ness. Would normal car wax work as the release agent? Is there a special, extra thick, wax I can buy. I am very new to using molds with fiberglass, and I really appreciate the advice fellas.
Posted By: gogeeta13
Date Posted: February 01, 2004 at 1:02 AM
gogeeta13 wrote:
Yeah, I am talking the actual hatch. I was thinking about using aluminum(very thin, from aircraft supply place) for the hood, with a fiberglass under skeloton for sturdy ness. Would normal car wax work as the release agent? Is there a special, extra thick, wax I can buy. I am very new to using molds with fiberglass, and I really appreciate the advice fellas.
oh, and as far as laying the matting down over the hatch, are you talking about making the mold like that? Can I use normal fiberglass matting and resin for the mold, and then cast the actual part from that?
Posted By: Clean Install
Date Posted: February 01, 2004 at 1:06 AM
thats sound neat...good luck ...what if you taped the entire hatch....sort of like you would if you were doing a kick panel...? just a thought...  ------------- If we learn from each success and
each failure, then we can improve ourselves
Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: February 02, 2004 at 9:08 AM
Okay, so you are making the hatch. I'd feel the same way about that as a hood (refer to my above post if necessary). Yes, car wax will work as a release agent. You can order some mold release wax, but it's not necessary. I guess a high carnauba would be preferable? I use Turtle Wax brand. Just smear some wax all over the piece. Do not buff! It's best to remove it from the vehicle (easier to work with). Yes, you can lay fiberglass directly over your existing hatch to form your mold. It's important to avoid any bubbles, because they'll show. You can fill them in if you need to later, it just takes longer. You'll want at least 3 layers (if not 4 or 5) to make the mold strong enough to keep it's shape, and not break while you try to seperate it. It takes some effort, but as long as you applied wax, it'll seperate with some effort. Stick with it, and you'll get what you want. Upon removal of the mold, you can clean it up and tend to any imperfections. Once that's done, apply some more wax, and get to work.
-------------
My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
Posted By: gogeeta13
Date Posted: February 02, 2004 at 9:26 PM
Is it necessary to insert bars or wood or something for structure? I am afraid that It will just snap when I go to release it. Thanks for all the advice fellas! This is a HUGE help! This forum/website rocks.
Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: February 03, 2004 at 1:14 PM
I can't tell you from experience, because I've only made fenders and a header panel, and that was a challenge to get it right. Yeah, you're probably best off to incorperate some kind of support structure on the inside. I probably wouldn't use wood inside a body panel, maybe some steel in critical (weaker) areas. Remember, curves are strong, flat pieces are weaker. If you can add some supports inside, you may be able to lay glass over the top to create some curves, thus giving a lot more strength. I know that well built fiberglass hoods use some steel panels at the critical areas, like mounting points and latches. It'd be wise to do the same. Man, I wish I'd have seen that special on Speed. Here's an article I found on carbon fiber hoods- it should help you out: https://www.superstreetonline.com/techarticles/54702/. ------------- My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
Posted By: pureRF
Date Posted: February 03, 2004 at 6:49 PM
You dont need a peice of wood or nething, just lay about 5 layers before pulling it out, and make sure its totally cured.
-------------
dream it, build it, fiberglass it
Posted By: gogeeta13
Date Posted: February 04, 2004 at 3:37 PM
[QUOTE=geepherder]I can't tell you from experience, because I've only made fenders and a header panel, and that was a challenge to get it right. Yeah, you're probably best off to incorperate some kind of support structure on the inside. I probably wouldn't use wood inside a body panel, maybe some steel in critical (weaker) areas. Remember, curves are strong, flat pieces are weaker. If you can add some supports inside, you may be able to lay glass over the top to create some curves, thus giving a lot more strength. I know that well built fiberglass hoods use some steel panels at the critical areas, like mounting points and latches. It'd be wise to do the same. Man, I wish I'd have seen that special on Speed. Here's an article I found on carbon fiber hoods- it should help you out: https://www.superstreetonline.com/techarticles/54702/.[/QUOTE] As far as like putting small thing sheets of aluminum orsomething laminated between the layers of glass? THats a good idea, I think I will do it at the hinges and hood pin areas.
|