CFiber how to DIY?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=25993
Printed Date: May 25, 2025 at 8:14 PM
Topic: CFiber how to DIY?
Posted By: profuse007
Subject: CFiber how to DIY?
Date Posted: February 07, 2004 at 9:10 AM
i wnat to learn how to apply carbon fiber weaves on to material for a cool looks.
whats the process or DIY link for these projects?
------------- Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Replies:
Posted By: audiomechanic
Date Posted: February 07, 2004 at 5:29 PM
you best bet and cheapest one is to build something and put the last layer as the CF. you will need to get it prepped like you were going to paint it. it is resined like fiberglass matting, just a super clear resin. and there is a bubble free solution you apply to it too. if you can lay fiberglass matting with no bubbles you can lay CF. you can sand and buff the resin also.
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Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: February 08, 2004 at 1:45 AM
thanks buddy
------------- Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Posted By: beyondamfm
Date Posted: February 08, 2004 at 6:02 PM
Bubbles are not for design that is what someone told me one time.  ------------- The Clear Bra Guy
KCs premiere paint protection guru
Posted By: pureRF
Date Posted: February 08, 2004 at 6:44 PM
Ive heard using CF is very hard without a vaccum packing thing and when its cut its extreamly hard to keep it from unraveling.
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dream it, build it, fiberglass it
Posted By: soup
Date Posted: February 09, 2004 at 2:08 PM
pureRF wrote:
Ive heard using CF is very hard without a vaccum packing thing and when its cut its extreamly hard to keep it from unraveling.
This is true, but if you are thinking of just doing like dash trim pieces, then use this method and it should be ok
Do any fiberglassing or sanding or anything before hand. Make it ready to paint, like you are about to primer it. Lay the CF over the part that you want, then cut around it, leaving an edge of about 1 and half inches so that it is larger than the original piece make sure all the strands are straight so that it will still look ok when you put the resin on pour the resin over top, be generous with it, but not exsessive, then gently use a roller and roll overtop of the piece, when you can see there are no air bubbles, let it dry. When it is pretty well dry, just a little tacky, you can trim the endges, or you can also wait untill it is completely dry, depending on what you are using to trim the edges. Then, it is pretty well sanding and buffing. Treat the CF like it was 1 layer of base and 1 layer of clear. youd ont want to sand a lot. Just smooth it and make it shiny. The edges i hear are the hardest part
I havent done it myself, but I had read a step by step on a forum a long time ago, you really are suppose to use a vacume though. you could always create a vacume for it too... create a mold of the peices, lay the CF overtop, then lay poly overtop of that, seal the edges, hook up a vacume at a corner of it (you will prolly ruin the vacume) put a hole in the very middle of it, pour resin in with a funnel, watch the resin slowly soak through. Make sure the room is at a higher than room temp. lol.. this prolly wouldnt work worth crap
Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: February 11, 2004 at 1:24 AM
pureRF wrote:
Ive heard using CF is very hard without a vaccum packing thing and when its cut its extreamly hard to keep it from unraveling.
yeah youlll need a vacuum to keep the mat and resin down so it doesnt warp or whatever. i found this site and it show you how to build a heavy duty vacuum packaging using a/c compressor. ------------- Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Posted By: tnrplaya
Date Posted: February 11, 2004 at 1:29 AM
If you put scotch tape on BOTH sides of the cut (top and bottom) that will help to discourage unraveling, but cutting extra is a very good idea too. To get that "rolled edge" I read a while ago [in think in this forum] that once you do the first cut and resin...ie the piece is hard...you can put the piece on a prop that us just slightly smaller than the pice you are working on. Then, if you pour a generous amount of resin over the whole piece, the excess will roll over the edge and you can cut/sand after it cures...I haven't tried this myself but it sounds like it would work, at least on flat pieces. If anyone HAS done this I would love to see pictures, or if you have a better method, I am definately all ears! Also try looking up "carbon composites" I have been talking with Rob there and he has been extremely helpful. He even sent me out swatches of different weaves, kevlar/CF, colors etc... Rob will be able to answer most of your questions. ------------- PG Limited Edition Octane Aplifier
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Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: February 11, 2004 at 2:06 AM
whats the diff b/t kevlar and cf? which is more expensive?
------------- Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Posted By: iaudio
Date Posted: February 11, 2004 at 1:07 PM
Kevlar is harder to cut and grind than CF but it is cheaper. The colored hybrid fabrics are half Kevlar.
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Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: February 11, 2004 at 4:53 PM
thanks buddy
------------- Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Posted By: 2003lancer
Date Posted: February 17, 2004 at 11:01 PM
hi guys, i work for a aerospace company and use cf all the time. the best way as stated before is to use vacum baging. you can also wait for the top layer of fg to get tacky and lay the cf on and apply the resin. larger projects you should really consider vacum baging.
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