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Reinforcing Seam Where Mold Meets Fleece

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=27644
Printed Date: July 24, 2025 at 10:40 PM


Topic: Reinforcing Seam Where Mold Meets Fleece

Posted By: Coomer
Subject: Reinforcing Seam Where Mold Meets Fleece
Date Posted: March 03, 2004 at 4:46 AM

Hi,
I'm working on my first fiberglass subwoofer enclosure for my Celica. Here's what it looks like so far.

posted_image

I was doing some reading about someone's fiberglass sub enclosure exploding, and it kind of got me worried. When I stretched the fleece over my mold with the MDF ring and soaked the fleece in resin, I only applied two layers of fiberglass around all of the edges where the hard fleeced material met the existing mold, and now I'm worried that this area may not be strong enough.

I've heard about people mixing up some sort of a mixture of Bondo-glass and resin and MEKP so that it's pretty fluid, and then letting it fill in the seams so that they're stronger. Should I do this in my situation? Or is there something else you guys would suggest?



Replies:

Posted By: sam1
Date Posted: March 03, 2004 at 11:33 AM
that looks pretty good so far.  im in the process of building my first fg boxes as well.  mines not that smooth yet tho, as i havent bondo'd it yet.  but i was thinking the same thing about reinforcing it.  it seems to me that the seam is kinda weak in comparison with the rest, so i think im just going to put some bondo in the crease when i do the rest of the box.  but i was also thinking about using expanding foam for that instead. 




Posted By: technodigifreak
Date Posted: March 03, 2004 at 12:01 PM

well, I always used at least 3 layers of glass

my rule of thumb is, if you can stand on it, its solid



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Hot-Modder




Posted By: sam1
Date Posted: March 03, 2004 at 12:31 PM
well i can definately stand on mine.  in fact i had my 200lb buddy jump on it, just to see and it didnt even flex, so i think im good strength-wise.  but i think i still want to reinforce the seam just in case.  after all it can hurt so i might as well.




Posted By: sam1
Date Posted: March 03, 2004 at 12:33 PM
well i can definately stand on mine.  in fact i had my 200lb buddy jump on it, just to see and it didnt even flex, so i think im good strength-wise.  but i think i still want to reinforce the seam just in case.  after all it can hurt so i might as well, but im still deciding whether foam or bondo would work better.  i think im starting to lean towards expanding foam a little more.  any other suggestions?




Posted By: audiomechanic
Date Posted: March 03, 2004 at 7:09 PM
the foam will take uyp more of the internal volume and not be as strong. the bondo-glass and resin will work for what you guys need. there are also other additives that you can add to resin to make it thicker and stronger, yet still fill the gaps on the inside.



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Posted By: Coomer
Date Posted: March 03, 2004 at 7:19 PM
audiomechanic wrote:

the foam will take uyp more of the internal volume and not be as strong. the bondo-glass and resin will work for what you guys need. there are also other additives that you can add to resin to make it thicker and stronger, yet still fill the gaps on the inside.


Other additives like what? posted_image

Also, when mixing the Bondo-Glass and Resin, would I use just MEKP to make the mixture harden?

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Posted By: pureRF
Date Posted: March 03, 2004 at 9:50 PM
I thought i had the same problem with my box for an eclipse 15. All i did is take my extra resin and mix it up (no bondo) and roll it around on the edges, making sure to get them real well. Add some mat on the inside and it will be fine. I havent had one problem with mine.

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dream it, build it, fiberglass it




Posted By: sam1
Date Posted: March 04, 2004 at 9:57 AM
thanks guys




Posted By: sc2_ct
Date Posted: March 06, 2004 at 3:58 PM
I've taken to reinforcing my seams by adding strips of modeling clay around the seams (on the inside) and then adding an additional 2-3 layers of glass mat over that.  It creates a double-walled crease in the form which helps reinforce it structurally and make the form more rigid to control flexing.





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