finnishing sanding
Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=28895
Printed Date: July 12, 2025 at 8:17 PM
Topic: finnishing sanding
Posted By: hbk00
Subject: finnishing sanding
Date Posted: March 23, 2004 at 8:09 AM
Replies:
Posted By: Elrockss
Date Posted: March 23, 2004 at 9:12 PM
Well my friend, welcome to the world of custom glass. The truth is, this is the down side to fiberglassing and paintwork, it's an exacting science and is time consuming. The finish sanding and pre paint prep is as you have discovered the most important step, and can make or trash the appearence of the job, no matter how much time you spend sanding to get it right.
To level that low spot, go get yourself a tube of 3M or Evercoat glazing putty and lay it in over that low spot, leaving a noticable over fill of the area.Use a NEW/CLEAN filler applicator. You will need that to level the area properly. once the putty sets up(30 mins or less@70F)Wet sand that area with your 800 with THE FLAT OF YOUR PALM, NOT WITH YOUR FINGERS. If you have a rubber sanding block or pad, use that behind the sandpaper. With keeping the area well moistened, lightly sand that area until you have it almost level. Leave a little high to allow for additional finish sanding.
Take the entire piece to 1200 to get it right for paint. Keep in mind, go EASY on the sanding pressure as you go up,and use the FLATTEST force behind the sandpaper as possible for the contour of the surface, if its not totally flat use a flexible pad or block. Keep your paper/surface wet and your paper clean. The rest is all feel. Use a black spray can primer as a guide coat and lightly dust the area you filled to check yourself between the 1000 and 12000 sanding. This will show you any high/low spots you may need to hit with the putty before you go to gun.
I'd like to see pics of what your doing, please post some when completed if you can, and I hope this helps you.
All the Best!
-------------
elrock-SS
To level that low spot, go get yourself a tube of 3M or Evercoat glazing putty and lay it in over that low spot, leaving a noticable over fill of the area.Use a NEW/CLEAN filler applicator. You will need that to level the area properly. once the putty sets up(30 mins or less@70F)Wet sand that area with your 800 with THE FLAT OF YOUR PALM, NOT WITH YOUR FINGERS. If you have a rubber sanding block or pad, use that behind the sandpaper. With keeping the area well moistened, lightly sand that area until you have it almost level. Leave a little high to allow for additional finish sanding.
Take the entire piece to 1200 to get it right for paint. Keep in mind, go EASY on the sanding pressure as you go up,and use the FLATTEST force behind the sandpaper as possible for the contour of the surface, if its not totally flat use a flexible pad or block. Keep your paper/surface wet and your paper clean. The rest is all feel. Use a black spray can primer as a guide coat and lightly dust the area you filled to check yourself between the 1000 and 12000 sanding. This will show you any high/low spots you may need to hit with the putty before you go to gun.
I'd like to see pics of what your doing, please post some when completed if you can, and I hope this helps you.
All the Best!
-------------
elrock-SS
Posted By: pureRF
Date Posted: March 23, 2004 at 9:44 PM
Posted By: Meisnera
Date Posted: March 28, 2004 at 2:08 AM
Posted By: Elrockss
Date Posted: March 28, 2004 at 6:17 PM
hbk,
My place here is not to refute the skill of a tradesman who does bodywork for a living, but rather pass on the technique that will give you the results that will meet and surpass your expectations once you lay finish on your labor of love.
On car audio pieces, which tend to stick out like sore thumbs good or bad, and I have had both in my 23yrs, 15 of which have been exclusive to doing fiberglass intagration in high end system installs of 35-100k. I have been laying and molding glass in just about any shape and form from molded dashes to complete interior panel regesignes, both painted,flocked,and covered in vinyls and carbon fiber. I personally strive to be a perfectionist, and have had to be because of what I was doing, and the dollars involved. My work has to look better than the exterior of the vehicle, and I had to do it without the time to do wet sanding and buffing afterwards, or reworking. Theres nothing worse to face after all that time spent.
As I mentioned before, glass is a time consuming medium to use, and only get's easier to work with over time and frequency in working with it. If you want to insure the absence of the "walnut shell" look, consider what I am sharing.
So, I will tell you that the difference between 1000 and 1200 sanded on molded glass is noticable, and worth the extra step and time. Not to impune a fellow pro's technique, but I choose to leave no regrets on the back side to contend with.
Bottom Line: Its really about what YOU want to achieve. My reccomendation was based on the best possible outcome, outside of laying the finish coat and clear properly.
Again, I just do it a little differently.
If you are interested in seeing the benefits of some finished product, I'd be happy to send you some pics of some jobs that "overkill" took to national and world championships.
Its not about me tooting my horn about my way being better than anyone elses, with Masters like Dave Rivera and Joe Gross out there taking fiberglass to the outer rim, I'll humbly be in school the rest of my days!!
I just respect the hard work you have put into what you have created thus far. You obviously have the burn and passion to create a unique and eye catching piece to have even committed to using fiberglass yourself. I just want to encourage the best outcome, so you will continue to do more with it, and not be dissatisfied with the results. After all, it is not at all cheap to go this route, am I right?!
High build primers and spray polyesters are great and I use both, but also very costly if you are not doing production work. Elbow grease, patience, and technique are in most cases Much cheaper, and yes I use them equally as much, and in place of the other if and where I can.
Done right, there is NOTHING more gratifying, and I know others will agree.
-------------
elrock-SS
My place here is not to refute the skill of a tradesman who does bodywork for a living, but rather pass on the technique that will give you the results that will meet and surpass your expectations once you lay finish on your labor of love.
On car audio pieces, which tend to stick out like sore thumbs good or bad, and I have had both in my 23yrs, 15 of which have been exclusive to doing fiberglass intagration in high end system installs of 35-100k. I have been laying and molding glass in just about any shape and form from molded dashes to complete interior panel regesignes, both painted,flocked,and covered in vinyls and carbon fiber. I personally strive to be a perfectionist, and have had to be because of what I was doing, and the dollars involved. My work has to look better than the exterior of the vehicle, and I had to do it without the time to do wet sanding and buffing afterwards, or reworking. Theres nothing worse to face after all that time spent.
As I mentioned before, glass is a time consuming medium to use, and only get's easier to work with over time and frequency in working with it. If you want to insure the absence of the "walnut shell" look, consider what I am sharing.
So, I will tell you that the difference between 1000 and 1200 sanded on molded glass is noticable, and worth the extra step and time. Not to impune a fellow pro's technique, but I choose to leave no regrets on the back side to contend with.
Bottom Line: Its really about what YOU want to achieve. My reccomendation was based on the best possible outcome, outside of laying the finish coat and clear properly.
Again, I just do it a little differently.
If you are interested in seeing the benefits of some finished product, I'd be happy to send you some pics of some jobs that "overkill" took to national and world championships.
Its not about me tooting my horn about my way being better than anyone elses, with Masters like Dave Rivera and Joe Gross out there taking fiberglass to the outer rim, I'll humbly be in school the rest of my days!!
I just respect the hard work you have put into what you have created thus far. You obviously have the burn and passion to create a unique and eye catching piece to have even committed to using fiberglass yourself. I just want to encourage the best outcome, so you will continue to do more with it, and not be dissatisfied with the results. After all, it is not at all cheap to go this route, am I right?!
High build primers and spray polyesters are great and I use both, but also very costly if you are not doing production work. Elbow grease, patience, and technique are in most cases Much cheaper, and yes I use them equally as much, and in place of the other if and where I can.
Done right, there is NOTHING more gratifying, and I know others will agree.
-------------
elrock-SS
Posted By: xTimx
Date Posted: March 29, 2004 at 7:34 PM
Posted By: pureRF
Date Posted: March 29, 2004 at 9:38 PM