Looking for tips(vertical Surfaces)

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=33715
Printed Date: May 15, 2025 at 7:03 AM

Topic: Looking for tips(vertical Surfaces)

Posted By: ciscored
Subject: Looking for tips(vertical Surfaces)
Date Posted: June 11, 2004 at 8:52 PM

Hey guys,

What tips can you guys give me on glassing vertical surfaces?? I recently tried this on my own, I made a mold of one of the sides of the inside of my trunk. I tried using the following method:

After masking the area off and applying wax as a release agent I then took pieces of chop mat and sprayed glued them onto the area that was to be glassed. I then went ahead and applied the resin and when the resin started to soak through, some of the pieces started to sag off and slide down. Does anyone have any other methods that work? Did I maybe not use enough glue or maybe used too much wax? I was able to make the mold but I had hard time trying to keep some of the pieces up. Any suggestions would be greatlt appreciated. Thanks....

Replies:

Posted By: xtreamcc
Date Posted: June 11, 2004 at 9:42 PM

use as little resin as possible for the first mold. Fiberglass isn't made strong by the resin, the resin simply allows the fiberglass strands to harden. I'd suggest using the same method, though I usually dont glue the pieces in place, wet the area with resin, stick the mat to the resin then stab at the mat with a paint brush with a little more resin on it till its transparent, dont use a painters motion when applying the resin, jab jab jab.

-------------
"Shiny chrome when used in conjunction with bikini models is particularly effective in inducing brain deficit disorder"

02 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Monster System on its way.

Posted By: drunkenbreaker
Date Posted: June 12, 2004 at 2:56 AM

I like tape actually tape the edges in some small spots and just resin the edges. When it dries you'll have a hard frame with soft fiberglass in the middle. Then you resin the middle. If you have a really contoured surface do the ring and then resin in about 3-5 inch increments from the bottom to the top that way the hard resin underneath supports the weight from the wet resin on top so that it doesn't sag.

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: June 12, 2004 at 9:37 AM

This is the best way that I found to do vertical walls........... ( be warned.... I'll have to kill you after you read this to keep this secret from spreading posted_image )........................ do exactly as you have done with the spray glue and attaching a thin layer of matting to the surface. Now, start with resin at the bottom and work your way up the walls ( do this quick and use a 3" or wider brush to get as much resin as possible onto the matting. Now have a large enough piece of tin foil ( use the comercial grade stuff as it's thicker or double or triple fold the thin household stuff ) and cover the walls of the project. Next use a roller to flatten out the tin foil against the walls to ensure no air bubbles in the project. Allow to dry for at least 4 hours at 25+ degrees air temperature ( longer if the air temp is lower ) or use the back of your hand to feel for any heat that still being expelled.

Remove the tin foil and do this again up to 4-5 layers, depending on the weight of fiberglass that your using. The higher the weight the less times you hve to do this. On the first layer, I suggest something lighter in weight because of initial problems with the resin weighing down the matting too much and if your not fast enough, it will come folding down on you like in your first attempt.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: ciscored
Date Posted: June 12, 2004 at 3:12 PM

Thanks for the ideas guys. I actually thought about laying the resin down first and then applying the mat but of course the idea came to me aafter I had finished. Oh well, at least now I know it would work. I also like the idea of using tape to hold up the pieces. Once again thanks guys....