Could someone help me with orange peel?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=35247
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 1:03 AM
Topic: Could someone help me with orange peel?
Posted By: hitman66
Subject: Could someone help me with orange peel?
Date Posted: July 08, 2004 at 4:57 PM
Hello,
I just built a fiberglass enclosure, after I sanded it smooth I put on three coats of primer then I wetsanded that, them I put on three coats of primer sealer. Next came my base coat which I made sure I put on light coats until it covered. Now when I go to clear coat it, it crackled or orange peeled. What should I do to fix this.
thanks
Replies:
Posted By: hitman66
Date Posted: July 08, 2004 at 5:21 PM
I guess it isn't really orange peel, but it is crackling. It looks like little cracks right after I put on the clear coat. The paint I used was a color match for my car.
Posted By: King_Midas
Date Posted: July 08, 2004 at 8:27 PM
you propably didn't leave enough drying time. the cracks are from the lower layers drying.
Posted By: hitman66
Date Posted: July 08, 2004 at 10:34 PM
I followed the directions on the can and it said 5-10 minutes between coats of paint and then the whole thing dried for almost a day before I put the clear on. How long should I wait???
Posted By: hitman66
Date Posted: July 09, 2004 at 12:27 PM
Anyone else, I really need to get this thing finished and into my car. Thanks
Posted By: archemedes
Date Posted: July 09, 2004 at 12:57 PM
what you have is 2 incompatible paints, the paint caused the sealer to lift (using laquer paint by any chance) got to be sanded off and restart spray paint will do that from time to time
Posted By: hitman66
Date Posted: July 09, 2004 at 1:23 PM
Thanks, I have sprayed some other peices the same way but have not cleared them yet, are they going to do that also. Thanks
Posted By: hitman66
Date Posted: July 09, 2004 at 1:36 PM
The peices that I haven't put clear on yet are pretty shiny, should I maybe just skip the clear on them. They will probably scratch up pretty easy though when I am setting everything into place in my trunk.
Posted By: stormshadow
Date Posted: July 09, 2004 at 10:58 PM
Are you using a turbine HVLP system, what are you spraying with ?
Stormshadow
Posted By: hitman66
Date Posted: July 10, 2004 at 12:33 AM
What is a turbine hvlp system, I am spraying with just spray cans.
Posted By: stormshadow
Date Posted: July 10, 2004 at 12:59 AM
It's a system that uses a motor similar to a vacume cleaner, only the air discharge is used instead of the intake. The air it produces is hot as a result of friction, this means there is no water in the air. The only problem with these systems is that the product being applied, especially laquer based products, can dry too fast and produce a blushing effect.
To be honest it sounds like you used a solvent base coat and a latex clear coat.
If there is no paint incompatability then it is possible that there was somthing on the surface of the problem piece that caused the paint to separate. Oil, for instance, can suspend in air and leave a film that is unnoticeable untill you apply your product. It is allways a good idea to wipe the piece, with whatever cleaning agent is reccomended, just prior to spraying.
I hope this helped.
Regards,
Stormshadow
Posted By: hitman66
Date Posted: July 10, 2004 at 1:03 AM
I did wipe the surface clean before I sprayed and they recommended this clear for the paint.
Posted By: pureRF
Date Posted: July 10, 2004 at 11:00 AM
Try using TESTORS model paint. it comes in little spray cans and they make a clear. I did my whole box with it and a local audio store thought i had it painted professionaly.
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dream it, build it, fiberglass it
Posted By: stormshadow
Date Posted: July 10, 2004 at 2:27 PM
It's also possible that you just got a bad can of paint. There may have been a problem with the mix that they put in the can you bought, rare but it can happen.
Best of luck.
Stormshadow
Posted By: d_arnold
Date Posted: August 16, 2004 at 7:14 PM
what you are getting is not orange peel. Orange peel occurs when Clear Coat does not atomize properly (too much or not enough air is mixed with the clear at the tip of you spray gun). It's not really possible to get out of a spray can. The reply about incompatible products if correct. It sounds like your primer or base coat or both is a lacquer base and your clear may be Polyurethane base. Buying an air compressor a gun and real polyurethane base product can get very expensive. You can get an okay finish with spray cans. Try sanding it down make sure you remove everything. Sand project to 400 grit. Clean with a prep-sol or similiar product. Use products that are all the same brand. Primer, base, and clear. (ie. krylon, plasticoat) **note always pick a flat base**** even if the cans are not labeled with what they are based with normally if you use the same brand they are made the same. Wet sand primer with 600-800 grit apply base 2-3 coats let dry 15 minutes with most flat paints 70 degree weather wipe with tack cloth apply 2-3 medium wet coats of clear allow 5-10 minutes of flash drying time inbetween coats again about 70 degrees is good be carefull not to run the clear. If you do it not the worst after 48 hours you can wet sand the run with 2000 grit paper and buff haze away with a rubbing compound. That goes for any bugs, lint or dirt that tends to find its way on your project. hope this helps I've been in the same place many times. -------------
Posted By: xavierny25
Date Posted: August 16, 2004 at 7:53 PM
this had happened to me not to long ago.what ur problem is that a chemical in one off ur primers or paints didnt mix very well with the clear coatt hat s y i try to stay with a good brand and stay with it.what i did to fix this was start all over.sand it back to just about the bondo or resen and do it once again.hope this helps.
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