Possible to Fiberglass a Premier 5000SPL?

I have a Pioneer Premier TS-W5000SPL  that I'm using in a box I custom made. (first pic)  I have had requests from my sponsors that I prepare a more custom installed setup using this sub, but that brings me to a problem.  This sub is around 14" in diameter and weighs in at 89 pounds.  I want to do some form of fiberglass installation with this sub but I don't know if fiberglass can handle the sheer weight of this monster, much less the near 160dB it can send tearing through the vehicle.  My "block box" is ported and tuned for the sub and the walls are 1.5" thick.  (constructed of two sheets of 3/4" High Density Fiber board)  The sub alone is mounted using machine screws with steel anchors on the opposite side to hold the screws in under all the weight.   Is it feasable to attempt a fiberglass structure for this sub? If so, what special procedures should I do and what should I look out for?  One more thing... Now that I think about it, I can't recall seeing many, if any, elaborate vented fiberglass enclosures.  Let me know what you think, especially if you have some experience in glassing with a woofer this size.

and i said to make the port all out of fg up there, i typed that wrong, i ment out of mdf, my bad, haha, sorry,  long day i guess right?

maybe something like this, but be warened, I CAN'T DRAW IN PAINT, haha, it's an atempt

thats a pretty cool looking sub. i think with thick enough glass it could be done.

Carbonb wrote:

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It is important to have absolutely no bubbles, so doing only like 6 square inches at a time would be good. Unless you are experienced it will make the end results look a lot better be a lot stronger and a hell of a lot easier to sand.

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completely agree. I dunno but having 1 sub & 1 amp no matter what you do, will not be entirely the coolest setup in the world. Even though you have a hell of a sub & a hell of an amp, I would suggest having 2 amps. Having the sub in the middle with 2 amps on either side would look a lot better then 1 sub in the center & 1 amp somewhere. I think symmetry is a keen and satisfying design for custom enclosures.

Thanks for all the info.  Here's some more info that might be helpful.  The amp you see in the trunk is an Autotek, but it's my high's amp, not the MX5000.  So i do have two amps, but one is 14 inches and chrome, the other is around 20 inches and black chrome. I will probably mount both in the trunk.  I would like to have them submerged below the surface of the F/G, and have a F/G door over each, with a window to show just the faces, and hide the wires.  I want them on the sides of the trunk facing out and slightly towards each other with the sub in the middle, possibly at a 45-60 degree angle facing back.  I also have two yellow-tops i need install, along with a chrome Cap.  I don't want to get ahead of myself, but I need to decide on a F/G color, and lighting color.  I'm debating on getting it painted a deep toned candy apply red along with the car.  There's a sample below.  Again, thanks for all the info!

how does that sub sound? i thought about getting them too?

i didn't read all the posts above so i am sorry if i repeat.

u can try to fiberglass around the box u have now to make it custom. this way it looks nice and is still in a sturdy enclosure. ( alot less work to not having to fugure out the volume and such for a whole new fg enclosure )

sexyvic1 wrote:

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how does that sub sound? i thought about getting them too? 

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The sub is great!  It is extremely tight and only gets better as the volume increases.  I'm extremely picky about my audio and the way it sounds.  I like my setup to sound great at whisper levels and be just as clean at full volume.  All components in the car with the exception of the amps are Pioneer Premier.  840 Dual-face head unit, Premier Reference Series Component 1.25" tweeters, 7" midbass drivers, and crossovers up front, all of which cost me out the @$$ but were well worth it.  Rev Series 6x9"s in the rear deck (my weak link), and the power house in the trunk, SPL5000.  800watts RMS to the 4 high channels, and 2400watts RMS available for Boom means everything can work together pushing out distortionless audio up to nearly 96% volume.  This sub really delivers!  I've heard many other setups with "super-woofers" from Kicker, MTX, Eclipse, and several others, but they all have serious flaws. Often they can't support extreme SPL levels for very long, if at all, and the ones that can put up some good numbers usually leave out the sound quality aspect in their design.  Keeping an open mind to new ideas and products is the best way to find what really works.  I've just found that for the quality and performance, Premier always delivers, and then some.  This idea of clean performance is how I've put this car together.  I want to integrate this into the trunk area with the sub/amp setup, but I'm just finding this hard to do while keeping the performance that's there now.  I totally agree, the trunk is very bland right now and something needs to be done, especially with the amps.  That's where everyone's feedback comes in.  Keep the great ideas coming and I'll be sure to let you know what works out and post pics of the project as it progresses.  Thanks again.

stang351w wrote:

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you say your hitting the 160db mark with that one? now i'm really wondering what i'm going to do with 3 pioneer spl 10" subs running off a pioneer class D 1000 watt amp (one amp to each) in my lil 95 dodge neon.

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My last setup, previous to this one was three TS-W2000SPL 12" woofers in a vented box.  They were run off the same amp, the Autotek MX-5000, but running at 2.66 ohms meant they didn't get as much power.  The box I made was MDF, flat on the back, and 3 angled faces on the front, one for each woofer.  The vent was unique in that I made it replaceable, or so i thought.  It was a cowl-induction style vent ontop of the box that I could swap out to change the box's tuning from 34Hz to 54Hz, one for everyday, and the other for competition.  That setup hit a max of 157.3dB, but I believe that was limited only by the amp which probably gave each  woofer around 670watts, well below the 110% of the rated RMS I normally apply to Premier woofers.  With 1000watts continuous to each of those 10's, you should be posting some nice numbers.  Just don't get discouraged if they don't deliver what you expect.  Those woofers are outstanding, but they aren't meant to be "super woofers."  And remember, a great sub is no good without a good enclosure and tuning to compliment it. 

kickerstang wrote:

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you say that your box is 1.5" thick but in the first pic you can see that your vent is clearly 3/4".  then you say that your gain is basically used as your volume control only setting it at about 1/4 of the way.  you don't know jack ****. you are lying about everything, you have no sponsor, mostly because they would never let you demo their product with a sh*tty set up like that.

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What the heck got your panties in a bunch! , don't bring your problems here.  This guy came here asking for advice and here your picking a fight.  Do us a favour and chill.

Until you your ready to co-operate i think you should be suspended and make a manditory donation to this site to re-gain access.

kickerstang wrote:

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you say that your box is 1.5" thick but in the first pic you can see that your vent is clearly 3/4".

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The box IS 1.5" thick.  The part you see as 3/4" is merely the vent face, where it was not necessary to double stack the HDF.  The exterior of the box was built around a "sealed" enclosure, extending the box length wise to make room for an "external" port.  I am not the one who designed nor built the box. To be honest I dont' know the reasons why the shop that built this did it the way they did. But being in the military, especially in Korea, doesn't leave me much time to plan these things out, now does it?  Here's a quick diagram that might help you see the construction. Then again, it might just confuse you even more...

kickerstang wrote:

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then you say that your gain is basically used as your volume control only setting it at about 1/4 of the way.

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~AFAccord~ wrote:

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This amp is rated at 2400watts RMS, but I run it around 1/4 gain, so 2000-2200 watts is what the woofer will normally see.

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Where did I say I used the gain as a volume control??  I suppose I reach into the trunk and use my pocket-driver to adjust the gain between 0 and 1/4 gain when ever i want to turn my system up and down? I set the gain at 1/4 in order to hold the amp back from it's full potential and to minimize distortion.  I have a nice head unit for a reason.  THAT's my volume control. 

kickerstang wrote:

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you have no sponsor, mostly because they would never let you demo their product with a sh*tty set up like that.

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This "sh*tty set up" is the reason I'm starting this project Captain Obvious.  Sponsors don't just decide to give someone gobs of cash to deck out their ride.  I have two sponsors currently, both of which are classified as "quasi-sponsorships."  In case you don't know how this works (it's clear that you don't), a group/company might find something that interests them about a vehicle.  In my case, the interior of my car was what drew these guys to me.  Back to the point, a quasi-sponsorship allows the sponsor and sponsoree the opportunity to work together and learn what the other expects with minimal contracts involved before signing to a Full-Sponsorship.  The project I am working on here is my way to show the sponsors my ideas, designs, my attitude in working with them, and my skill and knowledge on this subject.  Currently the only thing that I lack is the F/G skills to accomplish this project with the woofer I have, hense this reason for this post.  By the way, how you said that would imply that I am demoing Pioneer's products...  Do you think I'd be here asking for YOUR help if that was the case? I think not. 

kickerstang wrote:

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 you don't know jack ****. you are lying about everything

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Well, I'm sorry you feel that way.  But I am glad I could help you feel better about yourself.