Console
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=50051
Printed Date: July 09, 2025 at 8:31 PM
Topic: Console
Posted By: BlueCC00RT
Subject: Console
Date Posted: February 13, 2005 at 9:55 PM
Im new to glassing and am trying to build a center console. I've built 1 already but its too boxy What do you guys use to get nice curves? do you just make mdf ribs and strech the fleece over it? or a polyurethane foam? Ive done the foam route and it was a pain to get it square. I thought i would ask some seasoned people that might have some tricks. Also any pics of floor console's would be great so i can get an idea of how ya did it
Replies:
Posted By: Bmnicolosi
Date Posted: February 13, 2005 at 10:04 PM
use mdf to make a frame, use a router to get curves you want, then stretch fleece over mdf frame and there you go, you have curves
Posted By: BlueCC00RT
Date Posted: February 13, 2005 at 10:18 PM
I did that... the router doesnt make enough of a curve... im not talking slight curves that a router would do... im thinking more like take a 12 sub ring and cut in half and thats the kinda curve im talking about.. not so drastic though
Posted By: djdaveoc
Date Posted: February 14, 2005 at 12:05 AM
You can always cut MDF in a curve using a jigsaw and glue it down using superclue and then stretch the fleece over that. -------------  Plan, Research, Do
Posted By: BlueCC00RT
Date Posted: February 14, 2005 at 12:14 AM
ok so basically just make a ribcage (lack of better terms) out of mdf and strech the fleece?
Posted By: djdaveoc
Date Posted: February 14, 2005 at 1:16 AM
Yes. And you staple and glue the fleece to the MDF before you paint the resin onto the fleece. If you stretched the fleece tightly and secured it very well, the fleece won't move much if at all, even after you let the resin soak in. ------------- Plan, Research, Do
Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: February 14, 2005 at 11:07 AM
Doing something like that, I'm guessing you have no plans of ever seeing the interior of it unless showing how to? I was wondering, how would you do something like that but where it would be removeable? Just curious. ------------- 1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm
Posted By: djdaveoc
Date Posted: February 14, 2005 at 3:55 PM
Master, if your question was for me, can you please rephrase the question? I didn't understand what you were asking. ------------- Plan, Research, Do
Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: February 14, 2005 at 10:29 PM
Well doing a project with a ribbing structure, at least I assume here, that the support is probably going to be staying in the structure. Especially for any thing sealed(Enclosures for speakers mainly.) Now what if you did a console with plexi you can see through or an open/close hatch device, would the supports be removeable when finished? (Note, I have little experience with F/G, much less this application, so it may be a lot easier to remove the material than I think, but with wood being porous, wouldn't the resin kinda attach through the material) ------------- 1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm
Posted By: BlueCC00RT
Date Posted: February 14, 2005 at 11:25 PM
Yeah the ribs would have to be removed. Guages, Sliding cupholders, B&M shifter, Switches.... I would need them removed for space reason plus i would need to get in there to wire stuff up & mount shifter... Couldnt i just wrap the ribs with foil and just use hot glue?after applying resin to the fleece and a layer of glass or 2 i was planning on cutting most of the bottom out and trying to make a flip lid for the arm rest.... Who knows i'll probably just end up fumbling through it learning what NOT to do as i go
Posted By: djdaveoc
Date Posted: February 15, 2005 at 2:36 AM
You can cover the MDF in painters tape and/or tin foil and use mold release and then glass on top of it. Even with the foil or tape on the MDF you can still staple the fleece to it. When it hardens, you can take the whole piece out of the car and take the MDF out of the fiberglassed piece if you wanted to. Me personally, I would always leave it in as a support. You can always make a chamber inside and paint that and add neon and a plexiglass or lexan outer window if you want to make it look nice. ------------- Plan, Research, Do
Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: February 15, 2005 at 7:13 AM
Ok, I didn't even think foil/release technique (D'oh). I'd like to leave it in too except for, when working in there I'd have some personal issues, and making additional compartments, boo, hiss. Ok, thanks for the info, I'll remember that when I get around to redoing my car's interior.
-------------
1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm
Posted By: BlueCC00RT
Date Posted: February 15, 2005 at 6:59 PM
the last one i made when i took it out and beat it with a bat it didnt crack it was very solid and it didnt have any supports at all. I mean i hit that thing so hard ken griffey would have said damn... Nadda... so i think no supports would be ok
Posted By: djdaveoc
Date Posted: February 15, 2005 at 7:27 PM
Yep, if you make it strong enough and don't want the MDF to stay inside, take it the heck out. ------------- Plan, Research, Do
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