splitting mdf
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=50460
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 9:55 AM
Topic: splitting mdf
Posted By: rhdAndy
Subject: splitting mdf
Date Posted: February 19, 2005 at 7:03 PM
iokay heres my problem, everytime i got to attach a peice of mdf to another i drill my pilot hole, and screw in the drywall screw and it splits it will counter sink so im sure it will hold, but is there any way around that, should i invest in a finishing nailer? i tried using a bigger bit but t just spins , so that aint it. any input is good input, thanks
Replies:
Posted By: Rick_h
Date Posted: February 19, 2005 at 8:19 PM
You need to get a counter sinking bit. Has shoulder on it, that way the shoulder of the scew will not split the wood. You get them for the specific size screw you are using. Any hardware store should have them. Rick H...
Posted By: TheSaint421
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 5:52 AM
you could always just use a bigger bit to make your countersink after you have drilled your pilot hole... The saint
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 11:28 AM
You could always cover all your boxes in carpet that way no one knows you messed up. J/K.
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Posted By: supradude
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 4:13 PM
You could be using screws that are too large. Are you using 3/4 MDF? I'm sure you are. I use #6- 1&5/8" drywall screws. Make sure they are centered and you shouldn't have it splitting.
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Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 4:16 PM
They're all right. But if you can swing it, a finish nailer is a great tool to have. ------------- Nik
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Posted By: 1hot944
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 4:48 PM
One thing you can do,aside from using the proper size screw is to shoot some good quality wood glue into the holes before you put in the screw, that way any small splits will get filled and bonded then just wipe off the excess glue with a damp sponge. Works great!
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Posted By: 1hot944
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 4:50 PM
1hot944 wrote:
One thing you can do,aside from using the proper size screw is to shoot some good quality wood glue into the holes before you put in the screw, that way any small splits will get filled and bonded then just wipe off the excess glue with a damp sponge. Works great!
P.S A brad nailer will also do the job but $$$ pricey ------------- In a world full of copycats, it's great to be an original!
Posted By: xclusivecustoms
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 4:56 PM
If you get a countersink, get one with a tapered bit.
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Posted By: joebobcletusjr
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 3:53 PM
I personally, am a fan of just a plain old screw driver; I screw in all of my screws in by hand, that way I know if I am putting too much torque into it so I don't split the wood. Also that wood glue trick works wonderfully. I have a special bit that will drill the pilot hole as well as drill a wider countersink at the top to make the screws flush. I am kind of a perfectionist when it comes to my boxes, even if it means hand screwing an entire box of drywall screws into one box, as long as it looks nice and people notice my craftmanship it doesn't matter how much blood sweat and beers went into one box. ------------- eh? what did you just say?
Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 11:05 PM
Now thats a man I can respect. ------------- Nik
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Posted By: johnnyb1231
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 12:13 AM
the only time i get too pickey with perfection is if im doing vinyl or velour because then everything needs to be level... i use a countersink bit and go a lil deeper so the screw head is recessed... i dont particularly mind sanding so i just use a filler and sand it down
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