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interior rattle

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=51174
Printed Date: March 28, 2024 at 11:03 AM


Topic: interior rattle

Posted By: doc t
Subject: interior rattle
Date Posted: March 02, 2005 at 7:37 PM

O.K this is tickin me off! last summer I tore the interior of my car apart and covered every exposed part of the metal with dynomat. today I installed my new eclipse da7122 amp and 2 12" eclipse subs. they rock, crystal clear, however, the interior pannels rattle at 50 hz so bad it sounds like cr*p. is there any material that i can add to the back side of the pannel to help solve this problem? I was thinking of carpet padding or rubberized undercoating. before i decide i need some opinions and sugestions from my peeps. help me Obe Wahn Kenobie...your my only hope!!

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All Bleeding stops.....eventually!



Replies:

Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: March 02, 2005 at 11:22 PM
I've used the brush on truck bedliner. Never use the stuff in a truck bed but it works wonders for killing vibrations. It can be a tad messy so be careful. Tape off the front of panels first that way your safe. Mostly just use a light coat where the panel touches anything else. There may be a better way. I'm not sure. But that will work. Honestly I don't think you'll ever get rid of all the rattle.

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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
[|||||||||||-] 90%
Check it out.




Posted By: djdaveoc
Date Posted: March 02, 2005 at 11:29 PM

I did the exact same thing with my truck, but I didn't put back in any plastic panels.  I'm going to use spray glue to cover the Dynamat extreme with carpet padding and then glue auto carpet on top of that.  So between all 3 layers, I should have almost no noise in my truck and no rattle either.  Those plastic panels in my truck were dark blue and my truck is red, so I gutted the inside to make everything red and black to match the outside.



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posted_image Plan, Research, Do




Posted By: placid warrior
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 1:44 AM
i use caulking in the cracks and seams and a dynomat alternative on the flatspots...u can use tar on bolts that u probably wont have to take off any time soon to keep them from loosening up.  that pretty much makes a rattle-less car, its just the things like the rods 'n' stuff in the doors for the door locks and stuff like that which rattles, but that might be fixable with a spray on undercoating material, might not kill it, but will lessen the noise a lot more.  also make sure youre wiring is secure or that too could find something to vibrate against, but the bass might be loud enough to not hear stuff like that anywaysposted_image  but just a bit of advice, if u have supports that are tacke welded to a panel or something and dynomat didnt fix that, then adding layers wont help, thats when u need to uload a pile of caulking in the cracks and seams.




Posted By: doc t
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 5:36 AM
   Definatly the wireing is a problem as are the dome lights and over head compartments, placid, did you use the dynomat alternative on the roof, if so, how did it stick? thats the only place i didn't get to (ran out of leave and had to back to work..... or go to the brig.....i chose work.) i used the material from mcmasters the same stuff dynomat is made of without the name or the price. soooooo not looking foward to the next tear down.

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All Bleeding stops.....eventually!




Posted By: realitycheck
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 8:14 AM
Hey doct just a little heads up you might have already knew this but, this is what i bought I think we may talking about the same stuff not sure.   I went to a local roofing supply store and bought this stuff called ice and water guard, I got 200 square feet for $56.00 I am currently in the process of trying to get rid of as much rattle as possible.  I'm going to apply this to the metal and then im going to apply some foam rubber over that and then put the plastic panels back on.   Foam rubber meaning carpet padding.

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Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!




Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 10:25 AM
realitycheck is that like the dynamat for roofs?

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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
[|||||||||||-] 90%
Check it out.




Posted By: realitycheck
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 10:38 AM
Well actually it is for blocking ice and water from getting onto the wood that they place down for the roof, I think.   If my information is correct though all this stuff dynamat, brown bread, fatmat, ice and water guard, etc. Is all made in ohio in the same place.  Dynamat just has a really expensive name with it.

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Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!




Posted By: doc t
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 11:18 AM

  just got out of the water at work....still draining my ears, i looked for the ice guard at home depot but they don't carry it in florida...at least not in j-ville. I think what I'll do is spray the pannels with the rubber coating then put some padding on top of that, as much as i can and still get them back on. I have three rools of the deadner that I'll put on the roof, then throw some padding up there to help the headliner not vibe so much.

what is a good strong adhesive that i can use for the roof to help the deadner stick better so it won't fall off?



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All Bleeding stops.....eventually!




Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 11:27 AM
The 3M spray works nice. I have a nasty vibration in my jeep from my sunroof motor and I have yet to figure out a way to fix it without messing up the sunroof.

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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
[|||||||||||-] 90%
Check it out.




Posted By: doc t
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 11:36 AM

is the motor bolted or welded in place and is the motor housing touching the roof at all

if it is bolted you should beable to get some rubber washers to help isolate the mount plate from the body. if the housing is touching the roof place some padding under it where it makes contact. if it is rivited, drill them out and go with the bolt theory. if it is welded....your screwed! 



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All Bleeding stops.....eventually!




Posted By: realitycheck
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 1:56 PM
If its welded WELD SOME MORE, hehe, just weld it together like you were trying to weld the suspend a swing from it. hehehe, nah just playing man.   Yeah doct I didnt find it there either, if you still want it I would just your local roofing supply stores.

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Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!




Posted By: placid warrior
Date Posted: March 03, 2005 at 8:10 PM

i used the roofing material as well, paid 45.00 for it.  i did the roof in strips, i did 2 strips by myself and the other 3 with a bud, one of the pieces i did myself fell off cause i didnt heat it up well enough, but its easily fixable by heating it up again and sticking it in place.  The other pieces are never gonna come off, u can pick at it and wont get anywhere.  so just make sure u heat it up nicely with a household torch. heres a pic the roof on the LTD.  the piece that fell off was the one second from the left hand side, the rest of the bulge looking things are from overheating and messing it up with my hand (hot tar burns) the goop between the pieces is also roofing tar (cheap stuff too) and it hardens up pretty decent.

posted_image





Posted By: doc t
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 5:32 AM
  Looks great, the stuff that i used i was kinda sketchy about putting it on the roof, worring about it comming off on a hot day...which is every day in florida during the summer....and fall...and winter...so i was going to use some adhesive along with it to get a super strong bond. When it went on the floor and walls, it stuck pertty good on the flat surfaces but over the bumps and diviots it wouldn't stick verry well, even after heating it up to the point of turning really gooy. not sure if i want to go the route of the tar, was it hot or cold?

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All Bleeding stops.....eventually!




Posted By: realitycheck
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 7:39 AM
I've kind of had the same problem I looked in the trunk last night at school and 2 of the pieces had come loose but were still in place so I got my roller out when I got home and rolled them back in place. I just dont understand why they wont stick, is there something else I need to do.  I cleaned the area with alcohol,  I heated some of the panels up and some I didnt.  maybe that is my problem I am using a heat gun, should I heat it up a lot more or what????????????????????????????????????  Please help guys im starting on it again tomorrow and need help.

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Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!




Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 9:20 AM

FYI: Home Depot doesn't carry Water and Ice guard, atleast not that brand name. Ask for weatherlock. My store carries it at $33.50/100 sq ft. Gonna be checking this out this afternoon to see comparative.

EDIT: This is just an idea, maybe... But I dunno, maybe no one thought about this. Possibly with the piece falling off over time (Heat, whatever) maybe try a thin layer of fiberglass that will fit really tight to it and seal that on. I don't know how this would work, but I'd think this would give a strong holding support so even on the hot days the material has little to no where to move. (I also am not familiar with the enclosing material used to keep any tar material from escaping, so you might need to be willing to compensate for some expansion or even movement in weather changes.) This is in anticipation of living in Ohio, the hellhold of temperature shifting. That's just an idea, LMK if it sounds viable.



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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm




Posted By: auex
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 3:46 PM
Hunt down and kill rattles you must. Well works rubberized undercoating it does.


I'm bored and can't believe that no one else has done that yet.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 7:44 PM
Yes master Yoda. You are wise beyond your 300 years.

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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
[|||||||||||-] 90%
Check it out.




Posted By: placid warrior
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 8:34 PM

ive used rubberized undercoating in my own car, and it works prety good, but over time it gets brittle and the bass will cause it to lose its max effectiveness, not the end all be all i'm afraid, although it may also vary on the quality and brand of the undercoating bit it would still go brittle over time.  i used motocraft brand what did u use?  for cost versus effectiveness, the roofing stuff is pretty hard to beat.  I wasnt as happy with the rubberized undercoating as i am with the roofing material whichis why i never botherd to mention it, but if there is a better brand then i'll give it a try (if the price is worth it)

the temperature was moderate, we used space heaters in the car and had no problems with curves or anithing...if it got to tight and creased then we just cut the crease out, other than that, no problems.  A heat gun wont work effectively or efficiently, not enough heat and if u do hold it in one spot for it to goo up nice u could only cover a small area at a time....maybe its also falling off because u heat up the entire piece and then stick it on which causes some spots to cool down enough to not give it enough stick.  i would only heat up a max of about 6" square (12" x 3" or whatever) that way nothing cooled down at all. oh yea...the tar itself was cold, this stuff isnt meant to be heated up, but applied with a trowel or spatula (u can also get some that u can paint on, but i figgure if its that thin its not really worth it, but maybe it is..never tried it) and i applied it with a cheapo plastic spatula





Posted By: auex
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 8:56 PM
I have used 3M and just shot the areas where plastic meets metal, shot both plastic and metal. The other thing that I have done was used small pieces of felt, glued them to the metal where the panels meet the plastic.

Living in AZ, nothing sticks with adhesive through summer including dynamat super and brown bread. I haven't had a single problem with undercoating in 4 years.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: placid warrior
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 9:51 PM
allrighty then...so if u live in hot areas like in the states then use a good undercoating (at least on the roof or places that defy gravity) and if u live in cooler places like in canada (although it can get fairly hot up here) then u can use dynomat or roofing materials, lol...well i suppose its safe to say that at least on the roof the undercoating should be used...i would still use the roofing material on the floor as it most likely provides much better sound deadening than the spray, although the spray should be on the bottom of the outside of the car anyways...whaddaya think auex




Posted By: auex
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 11:35 PM
Just offering my experience,nothing more nothing less. While the roofing material will work to reduce road noise it probably won't help with rattles.

-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: March 05, 2005 at 12:21 AM
I've used undercoating (and truck bed liner), and Dynomat (WeatherShield) and they both do their own thing. A combo of the two types is best. Spray some undercoating where things come together, then lay a coating of Dynomat on top of it. I just thought of this and it would be real pricey but if you could have someone spray the walls roof and floor with Rino Liner, then lay Dynomat on top, that would do it. But like I said, it would cost ALOT.

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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
[|||||||||||-] 90%
Check it out.




Posted By: placid warrior
Date Posted: March 05, 2005 at 12:21 AM

thats where i would use the caulking...at a buck a tube its not a bad deal, and it really gets in the seams nice and deep, probably a bit nicer than asphalt spray, sorta makes the supports and panel one solid piece in a way then i guess.





Posted By: doc t
Date Posted: March 05, 2005 at 9:59 AM
thats a great idea Auex...felt would work. i'll run a strip of felt after i do the back of the pannels.

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All Bleeding stops.....eventually!




Posted By: placid warrior
Date Posted: March 05, 2005 at 12:36 PM

i'm gonna try the felt thing too cause the 3rd lite on my spoiler cant be screwed down and its the only thing on my trunk that rattles wich really bugs me.

so the materials that were covered were:

1) dynomat / roofing material - sound deadening (reinforcing the panels?)

2) rubberized asphalt spray / Tar - some sound dampening, keeping supports 'n' stuff from rattling

3) caulking - keeping supports 'n' stuff from rattling ( good combo if spraying asphalt spray over top as well? less messy?)

4) felt - stopping removeable panels from rattling?





Posted By: realitycheck
Date Posted: March 07, 2005 at 8:21 AM
Well guys I did the roofing materials some more this weekend and sunday on my to church I pulled out of the driveway and the body of the car twisted and flexed like its supposed to which popped the sheeting loose from the side areas. Oh well thanks to the foil tape I sealed ALL the edges with its not coming off. The interior of the car sounds so, so, so much better now.  Instead of the felt you guys are talking about for rattling im going to use foam rubber. You know the weird colored stuff you use for padding underneath carpet. I'm going to cut and lay this in place and see what happens.

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Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!





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