frustrated with my dash
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=57784
Printed Date: April 30, 2024 at 11:05 AM
Topic: frustrated with my dash
Posted By: hbk00
Subject: frustrated with my dash
Date Posted: June 15, 2005 at 9:31 PM
Ok I did my dash again because I didn't quite get that "glass look" like I know it can get. And well now I'm in the same boat again, I think its a bit more shiny than it was, I can see reflections of everything in it, and if you look closley you can see my monitor reflection so I'd say the finnish is "ok" but I know it can be better.
I primered sanded with 800 dry, then 1000 wet then I painted I wet sanded with 1500, dried, washed, clear coated then wet sanded with 2000 washed then waxed and buffed by hand and its still not as "glassy" as I know it can be any suggestions? Strip it and sand some more? FYI I'm not using paint guns, all aerosol
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Replies:
Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: June 15, 2005 at 10:33 PM
Looks kinda wavy from here. I'd strip it and start over from the filler. I know its hard as hell to get something that big and curvy completly smooth, but with some elbow grease you can do it.
As far as the paint, sounds like you did about the best you can with aerosol. Maybe have it painted at a shop? Maybe invest in the proper equipment? Spray cans are just hard to get a perfect product from. ------------- Nik
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Posted By: customcarchris
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 12:27 AM
*all aerosol*
That's your problem, you can only do so good with spray cans. If you don't have any of the equipment on hand, and you really want a great finish, take it to an auto body shop already sanded perfect and with either the color in hand, or one picked out, and they shouldn't charge you too much for a few minutes for them to paint it in their booth.
When you clearcoat, try and get it as thick as possible without runs, if you get it nice and thick then it will give it more depth and shine and more material to work with when wet sanding.
Also, if you are doing it yourself again, don't wash and wax before buffing, you will still have an imperfect clearcoat. When you're done clearcoating, lightly wetsand with 2000, then buff the scratches out, and if you are really wanting a shine, use a very fine buffing compound last, maybe even hand glaze, or something like swirl remover. After this, there should be no perfections and a great shine.
I would think that if you can do this, then you would be ok with aerosol paint.
Of course, doing all of this is easy to describe, it's another matter to actually do it.
Good luck!
Posted By: Dyson
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 3:15 AM
I cant seem to see the picture, but from what youve described you are missing a couple of key things here, firstly, i wouldnt colour sand to 1500 before you put a clear down, as theres not enough key on the piece, do an 800 wet, then apply the clear. Apply around 3 wet coats of clear. Sand the whole lot with 800 wet, then 1500 wet, then 2000 wet. make sure you arent cutting through to the colour though. Always use a block when sanding or you will groove the panel. If there are a lot of curves use a flexible sanding block. Then theres a 3 stage compound to get a decent deep gloss shine. Use a medium compound first such as Farecla G3, then use a finer compound like Farecla G10, and then followed by a machine glaze compound like Farecla Machine glaze. You will need a high speed rotary buffer, a standard orbital buffer isnt gonna cut it! then give it a wipe. should look pretty cool from there. From other posts it sounds like you have grooved your panel. Get filler on the low spots and Block sand the whole lot. Fill all pin holes with Glazing putty or spot putty. Glazing is a little runnier. Then get it in primer. To be honest i wouldnt bother spraying an area bigger than a door pod with aerosols. Either Invest in some decent equipment, or get your body shop to at least do the colour and clear if you get it in primer.
Posted By: abovestock
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 3:20 AM
First of all don't beat your self up. It looks sweet, but like everybody elese said it is not your skill it is the can. If the paint is flat you can sand buff, and keep buffing till you get the shine you want. In my experiance you never can get away with one or two buffings it take many to achieve your final shine. If this still does not work body shop my friend. Good luck hope it all works out.
Posted By: tehgregzor
Date Posted: June 17, 2005 at 8:31 PM
On a side now, its realted, but how much would a paintshop charge to go ahead and do all the prepwork if i've fiberglassed my dash and smoothed it a lil with Ragegold to fill in the imperfections and just sanded it a bit with 80~120 grit, just because i got bored...with only doin gall that...ho wmuch would they cahrge to completly finsih it. I just want a good estimate, or expereince, becuae i don't wanna get ripped. I SUCK at painting, and i have nothing cheap to really practice on.
Posted By: shark_2003
Date Posted: July 29, 2005 at 6:35 PM
dont sand after you paint it will make it look dry even if you wax it. just spray it then put at least 5-7 light clear coats
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