securing pvc ports to wood

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=58449
Printed Date: May 28, 2024 at 8:53 PM

Topic: securing pvc ports to wood

Posted By: dontripmeoff
Subject: securing pvc ports to wood
Date Posted: June 27, 2005 at 3:17 PM

I need some pics or examples of how to secure to use pvc ports. I was told wood glue would not work well... What are my optons?

Can I use fiberglass resin? I'll sit back and read your suggestions ... thanks

(oh btw areo ports wont work for me cause 3 4" ports with shipping would cost more than I want to spend )

Replies:

Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: June 27, 2005 at 3:43 PM

Ok here is one. Resin and fiberglass matt. Build a flange for them and gentley drill holes in the flange. Use a foam gasket beween flange and box/mdf to mimize the chances of cracking. Do not ovetighten the screws.

Actually why don't you make them out of one piece using the PVS as a mold you will build an exact replica but with the flange on it. Put 2 layers on fiberglass around the screws on the flange to give it more strength.

The flange can easly be made out of cardboard and mocked up on the PVC tube with masking tape then wrap the whole thing in aluminum foil and paint resin on al foil then lay fg matt and paint resin on it.

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(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).

Posted By: dontripmeoff
Date Posted: June 27, 2005 at 3:49 PM

Lmfao!!!

Wow, maybe you missed my post count, but I would'nt know how to do that to save my life :)

No bones about it I'm a newb dude, and I REALLY appreciate the post, but I need something WAAAAY more basic. ;)

thanks

Posted By: placid warrior
Date Posted: June 27, 2005 at 5:49 PM

that is pretty basic actually. U might just have to buy em then. or u could make a few rings (like speaker rings) and then build the area where the PCV is going so that it has about a 4" length to hold the pipe (secure the rings to the box and each other with wood and screws or something) , but keep in mind that this will reduce airspace in the box (may not matter a whole if your not using a specific airspace anyway) Hope that made sense.

Posted By: nowlater123
Date Posted: June 28, 2005 at 12:59 AM

All I used was a little bit of "Gorilla Glue" and some clamps (the big kind) and I can even hold up my 15+lb box by my port.

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Kenwood all the Way!

Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: June 28, 2005 at 10:33 AM

dontripmeoff - all the pros were newbs once. I think this is an excellent opportunity for you to start with fiberglass.

Fiberglass skills can come in realy handy in a lot of ways (especially when you have it in your car to show people). People need molded pieces for a varitey of things beside cars.

I also like the Gorilla Glue idea, give it a shot if you decide against fiberglass.

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(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).

Posted By: dontripmeoff
Date Posted: June 28, 2005 at 3:22 PM

Humm Gorilla Glue sounds like the way to go, I'll give it ago and keep you posted... thanks guys :)

Posted By: auex
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 6:03 PM

A good nail gun and silicone from the inside.

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Certified Security Specialist
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Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Posted By: nowlater123
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 10:53 PM

I wouldn't suggest a nail gun as ther is a very good chance of cracking the PVC. A brad nailer might work but you would have to use ABS pipe as opposed to PVC.

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Kenwood all the Way!