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mold release

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=58863
Printed Date: April 25, 2024 at 5:04 PM


Topic: mold release

Posted By: rhdAndy
Subject: mold release
Date Posted: July 05, 2005 at 10:26 AM

SO I WAS MAKING A PLUG OF A SUB WOOFER ENCLOUSRE I MADE, SO I CAN MAKE ANOTHER ONE, I USED ALUMINUM FOIL AND I COULDNT RELEASE IT I TRIED EVERYTHING, IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THEN MOLD RELEASE WAX I CAN USE, I BOUGHT SOME AT WEST MARINE AND I T SOUND COOL, ITS WATER SOLUABLE, SO WHEN THE FIBERGLASS CURES IT JUST NEEDS WATER TO REALSE IT BUT IVE ALSO SEEN MIGUERS WAX WAX TYPE STUFF... ANY INPUT WIL BE COOL



Replies:

Posted By: jaybong
Date Posted: July 05, 2005 at 11:27 AM

crisco or pam are the cheapest and work great

put it on the foil and glass away





Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: July 05, 2005 at 1:00 PM

I like jaybong's idea and would go with it .

The PROs use car Wax.  McGuiar's #5 or whatever wax you use.



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(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).




Posted By: RiccoDiablo
Date Posted: July 05, 2005 at 3:46 PM
WD40 works really good...

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Don't worry, you'll hear me comin'...




Posted By: rhdAndy
Date Posted: July 05, 2005 at 6:50 PM

thaks, i will try, if its a hot batch would it alter the wax at al and make it harder to coax it out of there < =text/>





Posted By: jaybong
Date Posted: July 05, 2005 at 10:59 PM
no




Posted By: DukeDuke
Date Posted: July 06, 2005 at 10:44 AM
Do a search on the mold release, I asked about it a couple months back. the cheapest way I remember was the WD-40. Good luck bro!

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Duke Duke




Posted By: rhdAndy
Date Posted: July 06, 2005 at 7:37 PM

thanks, guys... i used that mold realease stuff tyhat was suppose to be water soluable... that did nt helkp me at all, i couldnt get it out so i had to destroy my moldel box, but i got the mold i took a die grinder and cut preferations in the model ow and the peeled it off, im taking a mold of some panels ill take pics, and post different techniques...  < =text/>





Posted By: jaybong
Date Posted: July 06, 2005 at 9:38 PM

im telling you  CRISCO-  VEGGIE LARD

cheap and effective.





Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: July 07, 2005 at 10:42 AM

Butter, pork fat, white grease (comes in a spray to lube auto parts, Walmart has this for $1.99 give or take).



-------------
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).




Posted By: Poormanq45
Date Posted: July 07, 2005 at 11:22 AM
You said you cut up the mold? Why don't you just put it back together?

Also, wax, wax, wax... THEN a coating of pam/crisco.




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Posted By: rhdAndy
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 12:48 PM

no i cut up the box inside the mold, well i guess that is the mold, about termonolgy im not god at... i made a molf oof the box i want to duplicate, the modle box i didnt put time into it tool me all of like 3 hours muinuds the curing time and then i took a mold of it.. i need to make two and i thought i can make em identical if i made a mold fist....< =text/>





Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 12:08 AM

Man, you guys make a mess when you fiberglass. posted_image  Some projects you don't need a mold release with.  However if you need one, my favorite stuff for the job is PVA (poly-vinyl alcohol).  If you spray it on, it provides a fully covered layer that is super thin allowing for a perfect mold, is water soluable, and peels off like a thin layer of plastic.  And also, it won't leave a mess when you are done.  Here's a link: https://www.uscomposites.com/moldrelease.html 

Steven Kephart

Adire Audio



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