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Paint Gun compatability

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=59014
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 4:53 PM


Topic: Paint Gun compatability

Posted By: sach_deva
Subject: Paint Gun compatability
Date Posted: July 07, 2005 at 4:54 PM

Hey,

I was looking into buying a DeVilbiss Finishline 3 # FLG-643 HVLP paint gun (13 CFM @ 23 psi inlet) and I was wondering is it compatible with my Husky 5Hp peak 13 gallon compressor that pushes out 6.5 SCFM @40PSI and 5.1 SCFM@90PSI 125 MAX PSI. I also have a Wilkerson inline water filter/pressure regulator.

Thanks in advance!

Ricky



Replies:

Posted By: sach_deva
Date Posted: July 07, 2005 at 5:02 PM
Another site is saying the air consumption is 9 cfm at 30 psi inlet pressure




Posted By: abovestock
Date Posted: July 08, 2005 at 2:18 AM
That is the same gun I personally own and I have rum it on smaller compressors. The trick is to paint very slow as to let the compressor fill. Also you will be running the gun at 30 p.s.i. inlet but will only be running a cap pressure of 5-15 p.s.i. depending on paint.




Posted By: sach_deva
Date Posted: July 09, 2005 at 5:06 AM
"Also you will be running the gun at 30 p.s.i. inlet but will only be running a cap pressure of 5-15 p.s.i. depending on paint."

Could you explain the difference between inlet and cap pressure. Secondly I have already purchased the gun, now I am looking to buy a Chicago Pneumatic 3" DA sander I was wondering would that be compatible?

Thanks,

Ricky




Posted By: abovestock
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 2:12 AM
inlet is the pressure going into the gun, this is regulated at the compressor before it enters the line. At the gun you will need to install another regulator and keep this set at 15-20 psi. Then at the back of the gun there is another knob that you can adjust the pressure at for fine controll. As for the DA sander that is a no. The smallest you could get away with is a 60 gallon compressor. My best advice would be to return the DA and get an electric random orbital sander that takes round not square pads.




Posted By: Wherm
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 6:33 PM
I do autobody, auto paint, and custom car stereo installations. What you need to do for your spraygun is crank up the regulator on your air compressor, so you get maximum psi built up inside the tank. Then, if you have a Harbor Freight in your town go there and get a "Filter/Accumulator/Dryer" for your airhose. They work great and are only like 20-30 bucks. Otherwise, go somewhere in your town that would have that part. You will need it to filter out dirt, oil, and water that will build up in the hose and ultimately clog your gun and ruin your project. Once you have this part, mount it to the wall. Run a short length of hose from the air tank to the dryer unit. Buy a NEW airhose to go from the dryer to your spraygun, preferably one on a retracting reel. You'll want to get a pressure gauge for your spraygun, and that will allow you to adjust the pressure of your gun to the ideal pressure of 23 psi, or whatever they recommend for your spraygun. I'll post some pics as soon as I can.

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Posted By: Wherm
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 6:46 PM
Here are some link to products I recommend. They are off the Harbor Freight website, I've personally used thes products and know that they work. Sometimes stuff you buy from this place is complete junk, and sometimes it's great. I wouldn't recommend it if it didn't work. Remember, if you don't have a harbor freight, you can go elsewhere and find an air filter/regulator/dryer. Here you go:

https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42035

https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47035

https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90590

buy these items, and some quick disconnect couplers like:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94024

You'll be ready to rock with that new spraygun. Nice choice by the way. Any more questions let me know.


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Posted By: sach_deva
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 12:12 AM
Thanks!! I am glad that there is a forum like this where people can colabrate on information.




Posted By: sach_deva
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 12:26 AM
Hey abovestock,

I have already purchased a 5" disc electric random orbital sander. The problem is that the base of the sander is not made from foam but made of hard plastic that is not flexible. Would this not allow me to sand properly?

Ricky




Posted By: abovestock
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 12:54 AM
That should be fine that is what I use all the time. All you need to do is hold it at different angles and on edege to get the shape you want.




Posted By: Wherm
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 8:01 AM
sach_deva....

A better way to deal with your sander would be to get a foam interface pad. You can also change out that hard plastic base for a new one that is compatible with a sandpaper called Stick-It. It's very similiar to velcro and you can peel it off and re-stick it as many times as you want. Just a heads up though, don't get the adhesive stick-it cause that's pretty much a one time use only. You might even want to switch out your 5" pad for a 6" one because those are more common and if it's more common, sandpaper might even be cheaper. Here is a site with some decent information on this matter. Read what it says about the sandpaper and on the bottom about the firmness of the pads.

https://www.motorguard.com/sur_4.html



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Posted By: modena0
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 10:57 AM
im using my 6" DA sander on a 30 gallon tank at roughly 90 PSI, and though the compressor spends quite a bit of time on, it works as much as i need it to. i can imagine a 15 gallon wouldnt work though




Posted By: sach_deva
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 4:44 PM
So would you recommend a soft or a medium firmness pad?





Posted By: Wherm
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 9:53 PM
If your're doing something with lots of contour, definately go with the soft pad. That way you won't gouge what you're working on. If you are doing a flat surface, the medium pad would be good.


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