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Fleece to Fiberglass + Pics

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Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
Printed Date: November 30, 2022 at 4:33 AM

Topic: Fleece to Fiberglass + Pics

Posted By: khsonic03
Subject: Fleece to Fiberglass + Pics
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 11:21 PM

Hello.  I've done a search, but didn't find too much on the issue.  I have a 10w7 that I am making an enclosure for.  I currently have the mold done and it is 1/4-3/8" thick and does not flex with the thumb test (I would feel comfortable standing on it).  I keep reading how important it is to make sure the box doesn't flex, but my question is this:  When I stretch the Fleece over the MDF ring and glue it onto the back of the mold, and then resin it, what should I do about the seams?  I feel like they are going to be the weakest part of the enclosure, and if I try to lay down too much glass at the seam (between the fleece and the mold), it will get too thick and not fit in the trunk.  What should I do to make sure my sub doesn't blow the box at the seam?  I don't think I will be able to access the edges from inside the box either because of the construction.   Here is a pic of what I already have done (before the 8 layers of glass).  I also included one of my amp rack without the false floor on it.  BTW-this is my first time at this.



Posted By: khsonic03
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 11:26 PM

Here's another one of the amp fans I installed--not really related to the post, but opinions/comments are welcomed.  Thanks in advance!


Posted By: abovestock
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 1:06 AM
That install looks awesome by the way. As for your fleece problem, all you need to do is hot glue your fleece to the edege of the box and then resin over it. When you apply your resin be sure you put lots and lots on the edege where the mold and the fleece come together in order to glue the two together. Second reach inside the box and paint resin along the entire seam where the two come together. And last, recoat the seam after step two is hard and lay down a four inch strip of mat and saturate it to hold the two together. I hope this helps a little bit. Please keep us posted with lots of pictures and good luck.

Posted By: abovestock
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 1:08 AM
Oh yea by the way, trim the box edeges before you add any fleece to get a better shape and better adhesion of the fleece.

Posted By: khsonic03
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 7:18 AM
Thanks.  Yeah, I know about trimming the edges--that pic was the only one I had (it's only about 1/16" thick in that pic).  So what you are saying is to put a 4 inch layer on the OUTSIDE, correct?  Because I don't think I will be able to reach inside after the fleece is on there.  It would be very tight.  So I guess I am still wondering, is that ONE layer around the outside seam enough to hold it together?  I am worried that the sub will blow it apart.  It just seems like I focused so hard on making the thing as thick as it is, then only having ONE or two layers around the edge; I would think it would be kinda pointless to have it so thick everywhere else, then that thin at the edges.

Posted By: Poormanq45
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 11:12 AM
OK, my $0.02.

When you resin the fleece, on the edges put some fiber matte while you're applying the resin to the fleece. This will increase the seam strength like you want


Posted By: crzycreations
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 11:20 AM

If you cant get inside the box to paint resin on all the seams mabye you could mix some resin with body filler

and make it just thick enough so you can roll it around inside the box on the seams... just an idea

-Don't buy it, Build it-

Posted By: khsonic03
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 11:35 AM
Hmmm.  Good ideas.  I also have Bondo glass, which is bondo w/fiberglass.  I could probably put that on the inside edges.  Should I brace the edges at all?  Are there any other special tricks?  Thanks guys!

Posted By: DukeDuke
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 12:15 PM
It looks to me like your fused your remote wire, is there a point in doing that? I have NEVER heard of doing that, but I may be wrong.

Duke Duke

Posted By: khsonic03
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 2:03 PM
LOL, yeah.  Safety first!  I put a relay on the remote wire from the headunit, because I was going to have so many things running off of it (didn't want to kill the factory HU).  When I bought that little distribution block, I fused everything, including the remote leads.  The fans are fused off that block as well.  I read through bcae1, and that guy stresses fusing everything, so I figured I would.

Posted By: khsonic03
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 6:35 PM
Any other comments/suggestions?  Up close pics would be great!!

Posted By: tim828
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 10:51 PM
IMO you should cut up some matt real fine.  mix up some resin,  pour in the fine peices and pour it into the box.  move the box around so it hits all edges.  it should work.

Posted By: abovestock
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 1:18 AM
No NO NO. What you want to do is resin the outside then cut your openinge. At that time you can reach in and reinforce the seams. One layer is ok you are not building a strctural part just reinforceing one. And oh yea your sub won't "blow it apart". That would take way more energy than you could ever produce with a couple of woofers, but a stick of dynamite is a diferent story.

Posted By: khsonic03
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 6:44 AM
OK, thanks.  I didn't really mean blow the box apart, just meant blow the seam apart.  I have heard of that happening before because it wasn't reinforced enough, and I just wanted to make sure I didn't have that problem.

Posted By: Poormanq45
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 10:17 AM
someone wrote:

If you cant get inside the box to paint resin on all the seams mabye you could mix some resin with body filler

Note, this works awesome when actually putting bondo on the entire enclosure. Mix a cap full of resin with ~3in of bondo and mix it. Then add the normal amount of bondo hardner. This will make the bondo a little more fluid, but not so much that it just runs off, and it will be MUCH easier to work with and get a VERY smooth bondo layer. This will make it so you don't have to sand as much.

Ok, here's another suggestion. Just put the fleece on and put the resin/hardner over that. Then when it's dried completely you can go back and grind off a small section of the fleece at a time. Then lay your matt and resin in its place. To make the form you can use tape. Then basically you can make it as thick/thin as you want it.

Just remember that fiberglass is strongest on curves. So it doesn't need to be nearly as thick on a corner as it does on a large flat spot.


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