Using clear packing tape for mold?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=60952
Printed Date: May 04, 2024 at 6:51 AM
Topic: Using clear packing tape for mold?
Posted By: Earth havoc
Subject: Using clear packing tape for mold?
Date Posted: August 08, 2005 at 4:17 PM
I'm going to do my first fiberglass project..it'll be a small project, so I can get the feel of working with fiberglass materials. I've been looking at the suggestions for first timers and a couple of project pictures and tutorials from other sites, but I've got a question about using clear packaging tape instead of masking tape for the intital mold. I'll be using the masking in areas that aren't flat, but I'd like to save my masking tape in places that are flat by using the packaging tape. Does anyone know if the clear packaging tape will react with the resin in a manner that might not be good? I don't feel like making some unecessary reaction and ruining my lungs or parts of the carpet or plastic. Another question for you gurus...I've got a ton of this fiberglass mosquito screen that'll never get used. I know it's not cloth or mat and it wouldn't be good for adding strength, but it might work pretty well for the intial mold setup. What do you guys think?
Replies:
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: August 08, 2005 at 4:51 PM
I think it might eat its way through packing tape. Just go buy another roll of masking tape.
-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
Posted By: audiomechanic
Date Posted: August 08, 2005 at 9:18 PM
I use it all the time on smaller flat projects. It works really good and notheing I have put on it sticks (fiberglass resin, budyfillers...) the only downside it it does not contour well to wierd curves or tight areas.
another option is aluminum foil applied with spray glue over tape.
-------------
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: August 08, 2005 at 9:39 PM
Listen to him.
-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
Posted By: mi_what
Date Posted: August 09, 2005 at 8:53 AM
hot damn!! that Jack hammer is SICK Audiomechanic. Your shop does some EXTREMELY good work. anyway, back on topic, if it is a flat area just use MDF (saves on time sanding and provides an even flat surface) if it is a curved surface that you are trying to get use either the masking tape or staple down some fleece and resin it.
Posted By: audiomechanic
Date Posted: August 09, 2005 at 12:35 PM
I work for Mitek (MTX,Xtant,Streetwires...) in the acoustic R&D department not a regular shop. I do a lot with the show vehicles and cosmetic samples and prototyping for the speaker enclosures, baskets, grills and anything else speaker related.
some of the pics on the flicker site are jobs that I did before I worked for MTX.............and thanks.
The clear tape I mostly use if I neet to press something into the fleece to keep the shape as the resin dries, or if I need to fill in areas and want to keep a certain shape like a speaker hole, the shape of an amp or cross over.
-------------
Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: August 09, 2005 at 2:15 PM
Concerning the mosquito thing, this is just a logical opinion. The first mold you usually want to have strength, so it will effectively hold the shape of the mold while you add layers for strength. So even if it would work, it would more than likely be a bad method. Just basic thinking on that, could be wrong. You could always try it.
-------------
1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm
|