which epoxy should i use. this is cosmetic carbon fiber and epoxy needs to dry clear. What is the prep required after drying in order to get a nice clear finish?
I've read that you just use liquid acrylic. I have never done any carbon fiber but am very interested in the techniques. I know you can apply heat to liquid acrylic (usually with a torch) to remove the air bubles and get a smooth surface, but I don't think this would work for carbon fiber. If anybody knows about this please share.
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Good Luck!
-Thad
SelectProducts.com has a video on CF, I would HIGHLY recommend watching before attempting. It is a good video and informative. They also sell everything you need to attempt and complete a CF project, from the resine to the matt. Good luck.
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Duke Duke
the reason for the lack of sites is because not many people want to do it because of the amount of pain in the ass it is, in order to do it correctly, and keep bubbles out, you are supposed to use a negative mold. Order the video from SelectProducts.com and watch it and then figure out if it is really worth it. Good luck.
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Duke Duke
Use West Systems Epoxy. It can be found at marine supply stores. There is a lot of info on using carbon fiber (CF), just don't search for it with audio components. For making CF you will need a vacum bag setup. This will cost you a bit over $200 if I remember.
Good luck....
urinemachine wrote:
which epoxy should i use. this is cosmetic carbon fiber and epoxy needs to dry clear. What is the prep required after drying in order to get a nice clear finish?
Marine grade Epoxy is the best to use. I prefer the 314 Marine grade Epoxy from Tap Plastics with the med hardner 109, it is the clearest epoxys. It however has no UV protection and needs a good clear coat, I reccommend PPG.
Most resins you will get at auto stores will be a Polyester resin, not a good choice. The vapors are strong and are flamable. There is a 7 to 10% shrinking factor. and is not as strong as Epoxy resins. There is also issues with off the shelf polyester resins. The resin you buy at various auto parts store have a wax mixed in to the resin. This is done to give the catalized resin a air border so it can fully cure. If you do not know this and put another layer over it after it set the wax that formed on your first layup can cause the second layer to delaminate from the first. This is very common due to the constant flexing of the box. Yes you can sand the box down between layers BUT, You should wipe the coating off first with dish soap soultion or some degreaser wipes from a paint shop. If you sand you will just push the wax in to the sand scratches.
The good thing with polyester you can adjust the amount of MEKP you use to catalize the resin to kick it hot or slow it down for more working time. You can also get various types of polyester resins designed not to sag on vertical surfaces, or laminationg resin. Laminating resins are wax free and do not need to be sanded between layers. The final coat of resin you use should be a finish resin with the wax in it, or you can get a surface curing agent to mix with your catalyst.
Vinyl ester resin is a strong hybrid resin and is stable up to 240 degrees, although it has a amber tint and has no UV protection.
As far as the look, the mold is the important thing, it will determine the finish of your part, of course vac bagging skills help.
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CreativeMadnessFabrications