New system plans

Okay so i'm a noob with photoshop so dont judge it too hard only used it for a day or so.   Ive got a 2002 White grand cherokee limited and here are some pics of my current install, and then some pics of my planned install.

I still havent learned how to make the enclosers look more like real fiberglass but u get the idea. any comments are welcome.

here's my amps just behind the seat. currently a 1001bd and an 851x im looking for another 1001bd


here's my ported box its a snail shell rip off, 2 12inch hx2's i have 2 more one needs repair.


and this is what im planning still being able to get at my spare tire, and put my hockey gear in the trunk. not sure if i will have enough space to port it. i think i will if i mold right to the bare metal and hae it buldge out.

let me know what you think.

Definatly mould it to the metal, remove all the pannels from the boot area, dosnt look like alota room for a ported, but if you dont have the room just go for a sealed box, its looks promising and it can be done, keep us updated and goodluck

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Clarion DB36MP
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10"
Respone 800w Mono
ALPINE MRP-F250
*Custom fabrications*

thanks for the comment, im gonna take the panels out today to get started molding the interior. is it hard to get the mold to snap in where the factory panels did?

I wouldnt try and make it snap in. I would bolt it in but thats just me.

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Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!

yeah i guess the weight will be too much for those clips. thanks for the tip.

it is not a weight issue...

it is a theft and wicked bad rattle issue...

it looks rather nice...where is your other amp and spare battery going to be mounted?

it looks to small to be ported though..i would run the boxes across the back sde of seats as well say six inches deep or so...that way you buy yourself an extra cube or two..and it will give you some where to mount the amps..unless of course your going to build a nice floating amp rack and get the links for the amps so it looks like one big ass amp accross the back.....something that will kinda hover over the centre...

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Fiberglass Guru.

those are great ideas and i have considered that, but im thinking if i can still fold my seats down that would be nice. the third amp i was thinking of placing underneat the false floor that covers the spare tire, and the rf logo will be done with plexiglass and lit up, i dunno how hard it will be to achieve it but was hoping i could have the rf light on the amp shine through, might be a lil complicated. to gain some more cubes i might consider building the box up higher to conform to the window. nothing is in stone but the ideas coming in are great.

sorry forgot to answer about the battery, i will post pics of that soon, im getting a new dual air intake which will make the stock airbox obsolete, giving me room for a big yellow top, i have a stinger isolator to mount too.

two batteries up front on one side...could give you some lop-sided steering issues...

the rest sounds good though..i dont think i would cover the windows with sub box unless the windows are tinted and you wont be able to see the box...

i dont think the RF logo on the amp will be enough to light up your false floor..however if you sand the plexiglass on the backside so you cant see through it then you could use a license plate holder neon tube thing under it and it will definately sufficiently light up your floor...

WOW i just read back through everything i wrote there and damn it sounded awefully negative..but trust me that is not my intent..i thik your setup looks great and has potential to be very clean...just dont skimp out on anything and it will turn out great for you...

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Fiberglass Guru.

well the batteries will be on opposite sides the 2nd one is replacing the stock air box cause of my new intake i have room. windows are tinted dark and i would paint the back of the box black anyways u couldnt see it anyways. i was gonna use leds to light up the plexi, and was hoping the amp light would shine through nice too. i plan to have the floor stock looking except for the rf symbol being see through.

thanks for the comments. here's more pics of my truck. once it warms up again i plan on getting at er. im in canada and its about 29 farienhiet outside today.

https://photobucket.com/albums/f359/tbone3131/

woh...you need to get some extensions on those air filters man...you are gonna get some serious heat soak having those sitting ontop of the engine like that...

but anyway..Led's will light the plexi well..if you drill them into it from the sides...

if you dont care about the rear windows i would remove your rear pilars and build the boxes right up the sides, and blend them into the trim panels ...kinda have one enclosure floating over the other infront of the window..that would look pretty hot...and you could bolt the top of the box under where the pillars are along the roof of the vehicle..

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Fiberglass Guru.

yeah ive heard lots and lots about the airfilters, the heat soak isnt too muchof an issue at all and theres a huge improvement over the stock air box so i'm happy with the setup, theres some heat shields i might pick up. but well see. again thanks for the comments though.

allright so after two big ole rolls of tape, ive got most of the area ready to get a mold.   its supposed to get nice here on monday so im guessing that will be my day to make the mold, i dont want to waste resin, when its freezing out. in the mean time im gonna try and make a mold of the trim panels i need.

i would have to say, more tape is needed...

i would tape of the seat belt area...use some cardboard to configure something around it so you dont interfere with te safe operation of the seatbelt...then tape over top of the card board, to make it part of the car essentially...

second i hope your gonna use a drop cloth on the rear bumper...if not tape it up too...are you going to climb the windows wth it or no?

make sure you spray the tape down with something too wo work as a release aent too...tutrle wax also works..you may also want to consider spraying the whole area down with adhesive and rolling and pressing aluminum foil down to the tape...this will help with the amount of residue the tape is going to leave on your carpet and everythign after the resin has cured...

One main thing i would do is cut out pieces of MDF for where you are going to have large flat panels, and rabit the edges to accept cloth and mat..the floor for instance, as soon as you pul the mold out of your truck it is going to twist and warp...nothing you can do about it...both sides should have the floors out of MDF..

also take this oppertunity to cut, rabbit and place anyother MDF panels you will need...along the back of the seats, over the windows, where ever there is going tolarge flat areas...brace the panels so they fit tight and then make your mold from there...you may have to do 2 or threee layers of glass to make sure itisa strong enough to pull the molds out with out twisting or cracking them though...

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Fiberglass Guru.

more tape on the tape? or just more tape in other areas?

still havent decided to climb the windows with it or not yet. i just can't picture how it will look like that.

what do you mean by rabbit the mdf?

if i do climb the windows how should i attach the wood pieces?

for around the seat belts i am making a copy of the trim panel for the area around the seat belt holder, ill post a pic to show you, its something small to get used to working with the fiberglass.