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I have a goal of installing a Kicker SoloX10 into a 1993 Chrysler Concorde. I will most likely fiberglass the box. One of my concerns is, despite the fact it is a 10" Woofer, it has a 5000W Peak rating and 2500W RMS. The client plans to run it at full RMS at one point after the installation. I have not measured the exactly how big it (box) will be yet. I am worried about how many layers this box will need if it is being hit with such enormous vibration (2500W RMS).

Also, any tips for reinforcing the car in general. I do not want any rattling when the bass is hitting. Know of any techniques to cut down on areas that may rattle? I am aiming for SQL but with heavy tight hard hitting baaaassss.

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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

Where are you putting The sub ?
I usually for 1 layer fleece , 3-4 layers matt ... then do the little thumb trick thing , if it flexs I add anothe layer ..I also like to use a spray on deader/undercoating on the inside of my glass boxes not all but some .

as for rattling , a mat will keep down some of it , I like to IN MY PERSONAL vehicles like to foam behind the roof braces and all the crevices that could eventually rattle and then trim the excess away . It usally helps but its hard to totally get rid of rattles IMO , cause you may not have any right after the system is installed but they will eventaully occur .

Ed

If that guy wants his bass that loud and NO RATTLES OR VIBRATIONS than he is gonna spend some major money on deadner.

agreed on that one .. even witha ton of deadner depending on the car its a pain to keep the rattles away .

Ed

i highly doubt you can get rid of the rattling for less than the cost of the sub. ass for the box, use as much mdf as posibble and brace it according to kicker specs. also be sure to glass the inside around square mdf baffle that you are mounting the sub to

I have no problem doing an extensive installation on the deadner. I thought Dynamat was the "holy grail" of sound killer but, I found a company called eDesignAudio (www.edesignaudio.com)
with a product called "eDead."

Comparing it to Dynamat, it seems more cost effective.

Well, aside from deadnening the she-et out of it. I was thinking about throwing it up on a above ground lift and welding or securing any lose looking objects down.

But yea, all the seats, carpet, door panels are all coming off so I can deadnen every surface I can access.

After looking at the site, you think I should just use the mat on their or try out the liquid version?

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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

isn't the general rule of thumb 1/4 inch of glass = 3/4 inch mdf?

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Cuz I'm Kewl Like That.
System: 1-12" Orion H2, Crossfire VR2000D,Odyssey C2150 battery

Well, that rule could vary since curves when glassing gives it more strength.

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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

Nevermind, that was not what you were asking.

Not sure about the rule. posted_image

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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

There is no trick to rattles, and dynamat/deadener does not do away with them either. You will have to install the sub and listen for rattles. Then you take care of them one by one.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

I see. I need to start going to more car audio shows and seeing competition level quality. Thanks again.

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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

Hey guys,

As for sound deadening, I would suggest just going to LORDCO and pickin' up some (self- adhering) sound deadening sheets... (10x cheaper than any NAME BRAND stuff and actually works! ) it also comes in a spray or tile sqaures... i used the spray first, then cut the sheets to size and put them over for added sound deadening (couldnt think of a word, it's late). you can also use the spray for the reverse of interior panels, wheel wells, under side of your floor pan (as it is rubberized, it also prevents rust!) etc. However it is UNPAINTABLE! and is a bisnatch to get off! So be careful!

Melted Fabric wrote:

I have no problem doing an extensive installation on the deadner. I thought Dynamat was the "holy grail" of sound killer but, I found a company called eDesignAudio (www.edesignaudio.com)
with a product called "eDead."

Comparing it to Dynamat, it seems more cost effective.

Well, aside from deadnening the she-et out of it. I was thinking about throwing it up on a above ground lift and welding or securing any lose looking objects down.

But yea, all the seats, carpet, door panels are all coming off so I can deadnen every surface I can access.

After looking at the site, you think I should just use the mat on their or try out the liquid version?

Check out RAAMmat! this stuff rules! It is butyl based like dynamat and way cheaper. I have used it in my STI and have not a single complaint. Talk to rick (pretty sure that was his name) at raamaudio.com
they also sell a really great closed cell foam for further dampening

good luck

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Alright, I was thinking and most likely going to put a 10 in my ride, and well looking at the manual and specs, the 12 doesn't seem to be worth the extra money. They handle the same amount of power and I mean the extra area of the 12 will push more air but in the end how much louder do you really think the 12 is? If I am saying some wrong things, somebody please correct me.

Also the manual says for an SPL enclosure to go with the said specs, and says, "The SPL enclosure is intended for SPL ONLY! It is designed to be used with test tones above 68 Hz! Playing music with frequencies below 68 Hz will result in very, very, very bad things happening!!" Now my question is if you double up on the 3/4 mdf to make it 1 1/2" thick, will this make it so that it can handle lower freq.? I am kinda stumped, but also still learning about some of the things with subs and amps, so can someone try to explain this to me! thanks!

Very bad things will happen because the sub is going to play well below the tunning frequency and the amo will loose control of the sub. This results in launching the cone threw the damn window, not a desired result. You only use the SPL box for SPL competition and thats it. ABSOLUTLY NO STREET USE

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

ahh great for clearing that up for me, I was curious about that as it said tones and had an idea that it might be something like competion but its comp only, thx.

So wut do you think is gonna be better in a mid-size suv type of car, suzuki sidekick to be exact, the 10 or 12, and in a sealed or ported box, I can go either way.

Ok, I am a little confused now. The very bad, ultra "oh no"....."that's your azz" thing will happen if I am playing a test tone CD right?

What if I have a track playing with really low bass, for example Mr. Ozio - Flat beat.mp3

Will it be alright? I worry so much, because I have never seen a setup with 2500W RMS, and that is exactly what I will be running for this client.

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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

SoloX project