Frame, Stretch, Soak

What do you guys think?

Alright guys, I do this for a living, can't emphasize enough how important framing is, notice my rabbeted edges? perfect circle?

looks nice, what are you planning to put it in and what type of subs are you dropping in there.The box kinda looks plain to me, but it'll probally look alot better after you post some completed pics.Good Luck

i am confused...where is the rest of the box??

looks good so far though..

Yes this is a plain box, nothing fancy. I spent one whole day to get everything in the previous pictures done. Subs will go in through the cavity (blue tape rings), .75 thick plexiglass will cover it. Basicaly its a sealed box with inverted subs. The inverted side will slide into another five sided enclosure that vents (blow through, not band pass ported) into the cabin of the car via cut out ski hole. When you open the trunk you'll see the faces of the two subs moving through the plexiglass, but all the sound forced into the car, completely sealed off from the trunk. No Rattles

A grill with black grill cloth will cover the vent, the armrest is still functional.

53389] wrote:

---

ut all the sound forced into the car, completely sealed off from the trunk. No Rattles

---

Melted Fabric wrote:

---

53389] wrote:

---

ut all the sound forced into the car, completely sealed off from the trunk. No Rattles

---

That just sounds weird(no pun intended), the way that is worded.

---

No bass will be stuck in the trunk and cause rattles. All of the bass will be forced into the cabin of the car. Here's an extreme example of what I mean, I did this "blow through" for a pick up truck awhile ago, the box is in the bed (pictured without cover), and the bass will travel through the cut out into the cab of the truck.

53389] wrote:

---

P>No bass will be stuck in the trunk and cause rattles. All of the bass will be forced into the cabin of the car. Here's an extreme example of what I mean, I did this "blow through" for a pick up truck awhile ago, the box is in the bed (pictured without cover), and the bass will travel through the cut out into the cab of the truck.

---

The way this box is built it looks like since the subs are firing at each other that the sound waves would cancel each other out

killer sonata wrote:

---

53389] wrote:

---

No bass will be stuck in the trunk and cause rattles. All of the bass will be forced into the cabin of the car. Here's an extreme example of what I mean, I did this "blow through" for a pick up truck awhile ago, the box is in the bed (pictured without cover), and the bass will travel through the cut out into the cab of the truck.

---

The way this box is built it looks like since the subs are firing at each other that the sound waves would cancel each other out

---

Sound wave cancellation in this box design was irrelevent, it's a SPL box, most important was to have them all in the same phase. The equipment consisted of six JL Audio 12W7's and six JL Audio 1000/1 amps. With that amount of power and subwoofers, quality of sound is never gonna be a concern, it will never be musical. It's an SPL box and all that matters is how much pressure can be produced with this type of setup. By the way, this is a single cab truck!

There is no specific calculation for the opening, it's not a port. The opening is so I can direct the bass to wherever I want it (Inside car passenger cabin, not in trunk). I make the opening as big as i can, and as shallow as I can, so that any physical restrictions to the bass output is kept to a minimum.

austincustoms wrote:

---

ah, so unlike a bandpass box, the front creates the enclosure, and the back just "directs the sound"?  Is the sound quality affected much?

---

There is more than one kind of bandpass box. The box in the truck above looks like a single reflex bandpass enclosure

killer sonata wrote:

---

There is more than one kind of bandpass box. The box in the truck above looks like a single reflex bandpass enclosure

---

It definitely looks like it's on the line between bandpass and slot loaded. Bet it's good at preventing you from lighting a match in the vehicle!

flakman wrote:

---

It definitely looks like it's on the line between bandpass and slot loaded. Bet it's good at preventing you from lighting a match in the vehicle!

---

Hey guys, don't really know if it should be considered a "Port", "Vent", or "A Variation Of A Bandpass". But hope you guys get the idea of how I'm trying to isolate the bass and keep it in the cabin of the vehicle and not in the trunk. It works for me.

Anyways, I didn't start this thread to be a "Port Design Thread", hope the mods don't lock it

I started this thread to share with you guys my frameing skills, and how very important it is to spend the time and go over the little details (routing, perfect circle, rabbeted edges), so you will have better results with the finished product. Hope it helped

I'm extremely new to fiberglass, as a matter of fact, I've never done it nor seen it in my life, but am about to FG the tire well in my 2004 Mustang GT on Sunday.  My buddy has done fiberglassing once, so I suppose I can't say we are completely ..... green. All is bought that I will need, and I hope I can pull off this build in 4 days. If it weren't for you guys putting out these threads, I beleive my projecy would be a complete disaster. I hope it works out, but either way, I want to thank everybody out there that has put up input here. I've learned so much from all you guys. Thanks.

Mike

No problem at all, we all learn from each other.

53389] wrote:

---

Hey guys, don't really know if it should be considered a "Port", "Vent", or "A Variation Of A Bandpass". But hope you guys get the idea of how I'm trying to isolate the bass and keep it in the cabin of the vehicle and not in the trunk. It works for me.

Anyways, I didn't start this thread to be a "Port Design Thread", hope the mods don't lock it

I started this thread to share with you guys my frameing skills, and how very important it is to spend the time and go over the little details (routing, perfect circle, rabbeted edges), so you will have better results with the finished product. Hope it helped

---

the unfortunate thing is that by design, what you indeed have here is a bandpass enclosure (more specifically a tri-chamber bandbpass).  Drivers in much smaller sealed chambers all firing into a shared vented chamber.  You are not directing anything with that opening - you are providing the bandpass witha  vent.  If you'd like, give me the overall specs on that design and I'll reverse engineer it and SHOW YOU where your response is....

I can practically guarantee this box is a one-note wonder (as in big pressure at one spot and weak as heck everywhere else).  And no, not all SPL designs are one note wonders - they'll be loudest at one frequency, but will be brutally loud everywhere.  If you give me accurate dimensions, I bet i can tell ya exactly what frequency is loudest in that truck  ;)

Not trying to stir the pot for you here bud - but if ur gonna flex ur "routering skills" and show off box designs, you might want to be entirely sure of what you're saying it is  :) :) :)

bmoney

dude that looks cool but did you have a hard time stapleing the material

holla ths rah

HamiltonAudio wrote:

---

53389] wrote:

---

Hey guys, don't really know if it should be considered a "Port", "Vent", or "A Variation Of A Bandpass". But hope you guys get the idea of how I'm trying to isolate the bass and keep it in the cabin of the vehicle and not in the trunk. It works for me.

Anyways, I didn't start this thread to be a "Port Design Thread", hope the mods don't lock it

I started this thread to share with you guys my frameing skills, and how very important it is to spend the time and go over the little details (routing, perfect circle, rabbeted edges), so you will have better results with the finished product. Hope it helped

---

the unfortunate thing is that by design, what you indeed have here is a bandpass enclosure (more specifically a tri-chamber bandbpass).  Drivers in much smaller sealed chambers all firing into a shared vented chamber.  You are not directing anything with that opening - you are providing the bandpass witha  vent.  If you'd like, give me the overall specs on that design and I'll reverse engineer it and SHOW YOU where your response is....

I can practically guarantee this box is a one-note wonder (as in big pressure at one spot and weak as heck everywhere else).  And no, not all SPL designs are one note wonders - they'll be loudest at one frequency, but will be brutally loud everywhere.  If you give me accurate dimensions, I bet i can tell ya exactly what frequency is loudest in that truck  ;)

Not trying to stir the pot for you here bud - but if ur gonna flex ur "routering skills" and show off box designs, you might want to be entirely sure of what you're saying it is  :) :) :)

bmoney

---

flexing my routering skills... YES, flexing my wood working skills... YES,  sharing useful tips with forum members... YES

how many numerous times have you seen pictures on this forum regarding fiberglass projects that could of turned out alot better if time was spent on the wood work details? to me it just does not look good when you make a subwoofer ring that sticks out at least an inch with jagged edges about to be fleeced. you dont have to recess or flush mount the subs like i do, but at least router the outer edge of the ring so you can attach fleece to it, and not over the entire ring itself, so the woofer has a true and flat surface it can seat itself on.

anyways, i see alot of projects like this and was just hoping to help others on this forum.

as far as enclosure design, i'm not a pro at it, and i was not trying to show it off, i even said i didn't know what type of an enclosure this should be considered. like i said before "it works for me, keeps the bass in the cabin of the vehicle and not in the trunk", the only reason i posted additional pictures of the vehicle was because a forum member did not understand what i was trying to acheive.

Once again, this thread i started was not intended as a "Port Design / Enclosure Design" thread.

I started this thread to share with you how very important it is to spend the time, and go over the little wood work details so you will have better results with YOUR finished product.

Hope this clarifys everything for you BMONEY

the unfortunate thing is no, it didn't clear anything up.  What you've done, clearly by accident, is create a tri-chamber bandpass enclosure and then tell people who asked you that its NOT a bandpass or a vent or anything but instead a way to "isolate the bass into the cabin and not the trunk"  To me, someone offering advice and/or instruction should be AN EXPERT in their field.  Not someone who's built a few glass boxes and isn't sure what the design or outcome actually will be  :-(  There's no better way to shake someones confidence in you than to not know what you've actually built.

PS - there is far more value in correct and intentional box design than there ever will be in the basic ability to use a $30 Jasper Jig and 1/4 spiral upcut bit and frame something to be stretched with fleece.  I'm sure most shop owners would agree  :-)  Thanks for the reply tho (and the offer still stands - gimme the dimensions and I'll show you how to calculate what you have)

bmoney

53389] wrote:

---

p>Once again, this thread i started was not intended as a "Port Design / Enclosure Design" thread.

I started this thread to share with you how very important it is to spend the time, and go over the little wood work details so you will have better results with YOUR finished product.

---

yeps - and thats the point.  To me its a little worrisome when an installer shows off great framing techniques, and adds pics of an ill-designed tri-chamber bandpass which he honestly thinks is a sealed box with the "bass isolated in the cabin".  then back that up more by saying is a "pure spl" install and of course its going to sound bad.  You finding a way to make Dub 7's sound bad is testament to how little you understand about box design....

now be honest (seriously).  Have you noticed that with this "bass isolation method" you get some pretty wildly unpredicted results?  Take this as an opportunity to grow as an installer and become a PRO at box design (which, by the way is fundamentally far more valuable in the bay than glass skills are)  Take the time to learn man - don't just deflect the fact that you've build an unintended fart-cannon and then made the mistake of posting pics about it...of course we're gonna ask!!!!

sorry man - misinformation bugs the HELL out of me  :)

bmoney

HamiltonAudio

alright, i'm ready to learn enclosure design. I don't have the specs on the box i built with the W7's, it was done awhile back.

where can we start?

53389] wrote:

---

HamiltonAudio

alright, i'm ready to learn enclosure design. I don't have the specs on the box i built with the W7's, it was done awhile back.

where can we start?

---