Curves going inward
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=80492
Printed Date: May 08, 2024 at 8:07 PM
Topic: Curves going inward
Posted By: M&mfabrications
Subject: Curves going inward
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 1:09 PM
I'm looking for different techniques to get the result I want. I need som assistance when it comes to having the subs "sunk" into the box as opposed to coming out of the box. How do you hold the fleece to the rings when using this method? I have been sandwiching the mold fabric between the speaker ring another round blank that is the same size as the ring. This holds down the fabric so that the subwoofer has a flat surface to sit on but it doesn't allow resin onto that part of the fabric. So then when I am ready to remove the blanks the fabric underneath isn't hardened and i don't get real good adhesion to the ring either. So I am looking for ways to get the mold fabric to stay on the rings but still maintain a flat surface to mount the subs on. Hope that wasn't to confusing.
Replies:
Posted By: Melted Fabric
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 1:19 PM
Wow, long time no see.
Have you tried using hot glue or staples to keep the fabric around the rings?
I am nortorious for this,... but, do you have a photo?
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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
Posted By: M&mfabrications
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 1:22 PM
Maybe this will help. I know how to do this: 
I need help with this method: 
Posted By: Melted Fabric
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 1:31 PM
I see now, hot glue that inner ring to the back pieces inside the box using some form of "stick" or long dowel to hold it in place. Stretch your fabric to the inner right, hot glue again or stape. Everything should stay still for you to glass n resin on.
Dowel example
. ------------- I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
Posted By: Melted Fabric
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 1:37 PM
Just doing a random search on google and found...
Atlas Dowel
Prices don't look that bad, but you can most likely save by getting them at a hardware or art store locally. ------------- I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
Posted By: M&mfabrications
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 1:44 PM
I know how to do the skeleton work and all that. I built the two boxes in the pictures. For the one that sinks in I want to be able to mount the speakers from the front so I need the top of the ring to be flat. If I staple it I can imagine that it may be difficult to keep it perfectly round and flat. Plus I like to have it so that the ring is the exact size of the speaker that way ther are no flat edges overhanging the edge of the speaker. Have you used hot glue before? I wouldn't think it would be strong enough to hold the mold fabric in place.
Posted By: Melted Fabric
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 2:39 PM
Alright, I hope this comes out right.
Staple or secure the fabric (t-shirt, fleece) to the under side of the speaker ring that the sub will mount to, and mask off the other side side of the ring with tape. This will allow the other side, the visible side, to remain smooth and untarnished before resin, during the resin'n, and after.
I hope that came out right as I said above, I do not want to annoy you with methods you already know.
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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
Posted By: M&mfabrications
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 3:01 PM
Okay, I understand what you are saying now. But if you do that then you have the ring on the top and would have to fill in the area surrounding the ring with filler so that it appears you have a smooth transition, right?
Posted By: Melted Fabric
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 3:22 PM
Absolutely  . You could use Tiger Hair (fiberglass/bodyfiller) to fill it in the walls around the ring.
I am not sure how much of a "void" will be left for you to fill, but if your fleece/resin absorber is measuRED / cut and adjusted right, that might not even have to happen.
I do not know what shape/size subwoofer you are putting in there, I'd say wing it, but then again it's all on your best judgement.
Good luck with it, and you know I am going to want to see some install photos.
Were'nt you the one who did the fiberglass entertainment center?
Pretty sure it was you. You do good work, and I am sure these subs will turn out as the same.  ------------- I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
Posted By: M&mfabrications
Date Posted: July 19, 2006 at 3:27 PM
With what i have in mind that might work out okay, I will just have to make the slope down to the rings steeper so that I don't have to backfill to much. Yes thanks, i did make an entertainment center. Anyone else have another technique?
Posted By: modena0
Date Posted: July 22, 2006 at 11:58 AM
in the last box i worked on, the fabric was held in via hot glue like they say, but afterwards i had a theory.. if yo arent cutting out the fabric in the middle of the speaker ring until after the resin is hardened, then place the fabric where you want it on the ring, put a spot of hot glue on the top of the ring in a couple of spots to hold the general shape, and stipple in the resin around the ring first. once the ring is resinned up good, take that blank, wrap it in something (painters plastic, aluminum foil, etc.) spray it down with some mold release, and push it into the ring.. now yo can hold your shape, but the mold release will give the blanks the ability to come out afterwards... like i said, it was just a theory that popped into my head, but it might work.. most of my skeletons are made of a compulsive overuse of dowels though, so that typically holds the shape for me EDIT: you might want to put a handle or something on the blank so you have something to pull it out by. ------------- 2000 Chevrolet S10
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Posted By: crazyoldcougar
Date Posted: July 22, 2006 at 8:50 PM
it would be easier, and more secure if you make your ring a 1/4 inch larger then you need for the mounting surface of the sub...then much the same as you would do with a wooden back to your box, rabbit out that 1/4 inch extra down a 1/4 inch...now staple your fabric to the inside corner of the rabbit cut, it will now appear to have the speaker raised out from the front side of the box... but once you build up your 1/4 inch of fiberglass you will have a prefectly flush finish, just be sure to tape the mounting surface of the ring so no resin will adhere to it during the build up phase and initial wet out of your fabric...if you have access to the back side of the sub ring after the initail wet out phase, then it would be a good idea to apply a coupl layers of mat to the iside of the box at the joint between ring and fabric...
depending on the shape your are trying to get on the convex portion of the box you may have to build a skeleton/ ribs out from your ring to the front of the box...mind you that all depends on how large your outter ring is and like i said what shape you are going for..
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Fiberglass Guru.
Posted By: philliphamby
Date Posted: August 13, 2006 at 12:21 AM
i agree
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give a man a fish he will eat for a day. teach a man to fish he will eat for a lifetime.
Posted By: rujones10
Date Posted: August 16, 2006 at 2:33 AM
hey im not sure if this is what you are looking for but the way i did this one was................i made 2 rings they both had the same outside diamater the bottom ring had the mounting hole size for the inner circle and the top rings inside circle was a little bigger than the speakers overall diameter to staple the fleece i put an 1/8 in ravet (i think thats how you spell it) around the ring that way when it dried it was almost flush.............hope maybee that helps 
Posted By: Melted Fabric
Date Posted: August 16, 2006 at 11:25 AM
Nice box, I like the tv in the center like that as if it was there as the control to modify the settings on the subs.
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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
Posted By: crazyoldcougar
Date Posted: August 16, 2006 at 9:34 PM
rujones10 wrote:
hey im not sure if this is what you are looking for but the way i did this one was................i made 2 rings they both had the same outside diamater the bottom ring had the mounting hole size for the inner circle and the top rings inside circle was a little bigger than the speakers overall diameter to staple the fleece i put an 1/8 in RAVET (i think thats how you spell it) around the ring that way when it dried it was almost flush.............hope maybee that helps
Rabbit is the term you are looking for...the box looks nice.. ------------- Fiberglass Guru.
Posted By: crazyoldcougar
Date Posted: August 16, 2006 at 9:35 PM
rujones10 wrote:
hey im not sure if this is what you are looking for but the way i did this one was................i made 2 rings they both had the same outside diamater the bottom ring had the mounting hole size for the inner circle and the top rings inside circle was a little bigger than the speakers overall diameter to staple the fleece i put an 1/8 in RAVET (i think thats how you spell it) around the ring that way when it dried it was almost flush.............hope maybee that helps
Rabbit is the term you are looking for...the box looks nice.. ------------- Fiberglass Guru.
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: September 12, 2006 at 4:01 PM
I think I know what you are going for...... You want the sub to be inside a concave area instead of the usual convex area that everyone seems to be doing. The technique is rather the same as far as the ring, skeleton, whatever you want to call it. The only difference is attatching the fleece/stretchy stuff to the mounting ring. When you are cutting out the sub hole..... you will be left with a blank that is 1/4" smaller (assuming 1/4" bit in the router)than the actual sub-hole. Cover the edges of this with duct-tape. this is now known as a "plug" or "blank". Use this blank plug to pull the material flush, secure it with a couple screws..... maybe even cut a hole in the center that will fit your hand to aid in pulling it out.
Leave the back off of the box so that you can access from the interior easily, or, if you are doing as I did in my own car with a full tub and FG top, I made it in 2 halves...... and mated the halves once the baffle was done using windshield urathane.
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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
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