using insulation foam in a can

and a warning... the only way this stuff cures is with air and room to move... so if you do two layers without letting the first layer dry first, you get goo at the bottom... and thats simply not good

*sigh*

but it looks really promising, the work i did after i figured that out... really promising. i can't wait to start laying glass.

Be aware that some resins will react with and eat away at the spray foam. Also, I've noticed that it leaves bubbles, sometimes quite large in the middle of the foam.

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"the universe has a way of balancing itself"

another thing..the stuff WILL swell even if it does not have room to move...it will bend body panels as it dries even if it has room to escape...senn it happen. But the stuff has puposes too if used correctly.

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having massive success with it now... i've started sanding it into the geometry i wish to see in teh door panel... the arm rest where there was non before, a handle to pull the door shut, where there was non before, and a speaker ring for my Blaupunkts. oh yes. its going to be pretty. this panel is an experiment peice right now...

but its feather light still, and i keep staring at it... i have to be to work at 8 am and i'm tempted to back over and start sanding on it.

put down one bead at a time till you get a feel for it... build up foam in shapes generalized for the geometry you want. use MDF if you want to make it more rigid. the results are... awesome.

try two part foam about the same price but it is ment for forming molds, you can find it on the net

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information is the key to solving problems

the stuff i'm using is working like a dream. just gotta work out the kinks and learn how to do something without the good howto to go with it.

Try to post a pic of how it's going, I am curious as I have not tried using spray foam for that purpose.

I have seen people that will use it like a poor-mans dynamat. What happens is they spray it into a fender, trunk lid, behind the tail lights etc. area...now since the air dries it quicker the exposed area will harden first..trapping "goo" inside the blob. As the inside goo dries more slowly it expands..and is trapped inside the solid air-exposed outer "crust". Thats how you warp a body panel. It can't escape the way it went in so it just swells.

As far as using it for molds I know the stuff dries pretty strong and light..actually making it a very good candidate for molds if it works..but I am wondering how it sands and if it gets air pockets, which can be a pain if you hit a hollow abyss while sanding. I also have concern if you resin it I think it would disolve.

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Custom Audio
Lynbrook NY

ASE/MECP master certified