spl competition rig

Hello, I'm new here to the forums, but have been a very avid fan of car audio for years now.

Just curious and wanting opinions on a new spl rig I am building for my car club.

It will consist of;
6 - Lanzar pro 15" 1000rms subs
2 - Soundstorm force 2500rms x 1 @ 1 ohm amp
4 - 1 farad digital capacitors
2 - Optima yellow top batteries
All 0 gauge wiring

Box will be built from the back hatch to the back of the front seats, slot ported to 37Hz.

What do you guys think? I am open to any input as this project is still in the design phase and is still changeable. It has been a while since I built a competition ride of this size, so it will take me a little bit to make sure all my figures are still right and to brush back up on everything. Looking forward to hear your responses.


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Twizted Kuztomz
Member Team Gates

Looks good. Ditch the caps, do the Big3 Upgrade and get at least one HO alt. A CRX style box would probably yield the most output. You're gonna need a higher tuning freq. for competitions, though. About 50Hz is right.

What kind of vehicle?

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

Eddie Bauer Edition Ford Explorer. What do you mean CRX style box?

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Twizted Kuztomz
Member Team Gates

Woofers facing up, bottom slot port to ther rear. Anyone have the link?

What class(es) are you to be in?

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

My humble opinion

I have a trick that will leave your competition scratching their heads (most of them)

If you want to command at an SPL competition your best bet is to get your hands on an RTA or find a shop that has one and knows how to use it (most don’t).

Next build a 2 cubic foot air tight sealed box and place one of your subs in it.
Place your 2 cubic foot box and sub on the ground in the middle of a quiet empty parking lot (night time), hooked up to your car.

Place the RTAs mic on the ground 6 feet in front of the sub.

Run Pink noise at a medium level.

Carefully record the frequency response

Next place the sub in your ride, positioned somewhat like your subs will eventually be. And make the same measurement but with the mic close to the winshield (like in SPL competions). Record this frequency response.

Frequency by frequency subtract the parking lot test from the in-car test and you will end up with the transfer function of your vehicle. In other words you will see that your vehicle will favor one frequency much more than all others. Knowing this is key.

Build a new box for all of your subs tuned to this frequency and kill your competition by a large margin.

Some people that you compete against will be aware of this trick but they will be very few and far in between.

I have supporting info, if you are interested

yeah, i used to do that in my silverado when I was running it in competitions. it had a perfect resonant freq. of 38 hrz. i would build all my boxes at that and woul be sitting there cleaning up on most of them with only 2 JL W6v2 10"s. The real fun in that truck came with the 3 Memphis 15"s i ran in it. Had it tuned at like 40 hrz though.....still was d@mn loud though. :P

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Twizted Kuztomz
Member Team Gates

You could also measure from the location of the subs to the location of the SPL mic and use that as the quater-wave length and build your enclosure tuned to that freq. I don't think it would be quite as accurate as speakermaker's route finding the transfer function, but it would be better than just guessing.

I'm just a noob, but I don't quite understand how the interior of a car can have a particular resonant frequency? Everything resonates at a different frequency ... dash board, windshield, roof, floor, etc. I would think the quarter-wave length and transfer function would be much more benefitial than the resonant frequency of any particular piece of your car.

I'm more curious how you plan on getting 1 ohm from 3 subs... I'm also curious as exactly which Soundstorm amps you plan on. I hate to play the devil's advocate here, but to me I have looked at all of Soundstorm's amps on their site and none have stated that they are stable at 1 ohm, but at 2 ohms.

For power, keep the caps and do the big 3 upgrade. Ditching the caps will affect your system when burping at max power as the batteries do not discharge as efficiently or near as quickly as caps. That is unless you know of a battery that can discharge 300 amps in 1 second (with the exception of batcap)

If you want to stay IASCA conformed for larger competitions, IASCA states you should run 00 guage for main power wire as your minimum.

Of course, add a HO alternator (or two depending on vehicle) and you'll dominate.

Well that is just my two cents.

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Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.

there are 6 subs, not 3.

here is a link to the amp.
https://cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=1FD2500



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Twizted Kuztomz
Member Team Gates

Oh I know that there are 6 subs, 3 per amp right? Or are you going to strap the amps together for power? If so, Soundstorm did not say that the amps are compatible that way. I'm just trying to figure out how you are wiring it all together to maximize power and remain stable.

I see... the site has it listed like that. Here's Soundstorm's webpage on the F2500D. This is why I thought the way I did.
Soundstorm F2500D

https://www.soundstormlab.com/home/catalog/public_html/print/productSpecDetails.php?product_id=46

Ganbatte ne!

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Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.