Ok, here goes... I drive an '07 Mitsu Galant Ralliart w/ a "SWS" wiring system or Multiplex or PWM, whatever you want to call it. I was lazy the first time around and tried to install w/o any extra wiring. Lights flickered on initial start up and after 3 weeks I blew one light and the ballast it was attached to.
Bought a new ballast and set of lights (didn't like the 8k anyways and switched to 5K). Bought relays and installed the passenger side 2 nights ago. Worked Great!! Last night I installed the driver side, worked great until I tried to drive the car and then the drivers side flickers like a high speed strobe and the passenger side flicks once and turns off. When the car is put back into park and lights turn off until switched off and back on and then they work great (in park).
Side notes: 1.) The passenger side was tested while driving and parked - works great. 2.) DRL's activate when vehicle is put into anything BUT park. 3.) Ballast share ground with relay on both sides. 4.)
Relay Setup (same for both sides) : Pin 86 = Signal from stock harness (i.e. hot side) ... Pin 87 = 12V from Batt (shared for both sides) ... Pin 85 = Ground (Chassis for passenger side, batt for drivers side) ... Pin 30 = 12V to Ballast ... Pin 87A = unused
What's the issue? Backfeed due to shared grounds of ballast and relay? Backfeed from shared 12V to relays? Lack of voltage due to shared 12V/Ground? I'm lost here... If I'm missing any info you need to know please ask me.
Aren't the lights triggered from the factory harness with a ground? 99.999% of the rigs I have done.... whn you turn the headlight switch ON, it throws a ground, not 12 volts, to turn the lights on.
Your situation appears to be WAY different. Try to wire relays like this 87 and 86, fused 12V from the battery. 85 gets the (NEG)- trigger from the O.E. light harness/plug. 30 to the ballast HOT side.
-------------
Hrm... I'll look into the "trigger" tomorrow. Currently when I test the stock harness I have continuity between chassis and one wire and 12V on the other... I think, I'll have to double check... but I like the sound of you relay setup and I'll give that a shot for sure! Thanks for the response! If it doesn't work... well, I'll be back, lol.
Wow, I feel like a retard... I tested it w/ the vehicle in drive and yes it's a negative trigger... thanks again.
I don't know what's going on. It can't be a negative trigger, I rewired the relay's as KarTune explained and now I've lost the function from the stock switch... They're simply on as soon as the 12V is hooked up to the batt.